Where is the headlight relay for the 2010 Nt700v

[bluetoad721]

If anyone could post a picture of what it looks like that would be awesome.
Also i'm looking for an electrical diagram if anyone can point me to that !

 

[dnktng]

It's not the relay. The relay only turns on the High beam. If it failed it wouldn't affect the low beam or the position light.

 

[bluetoad721]

Thank you for the wiring diagram!
so if my problem isn’t the bulb, the fuse, the ignition switch (i cleaned it with electrical cleaner and wd-40 like people suggested), or the wiring, what should I replace next?

 

[WVRider]

Thank you for the wiring diagram!
so if my problem isn’t the bulb, the fuse, the ignition switch (i cleaned it with electrical cleaner and wd-40 like people suggested), or the wiring, what should I replace next?

I didn't see you mentioned the Start Button ? That is usually the problem with the headlights on most our NT problems, not the ignition switch.

 

[bluetoad721]

I didn't see you mentioned the Start Button ? That is usually the problem with the headlights on most our NT problems, not the ignition switch.

The start button and ignition are the same thing? The black button on the righthand side
I took the 2 screws off and sprayed around there

 

[Chucksklrst]

It has been 9 years since I had my NT, but if I remember correctly when the starter button is pushed it activates a relay which turns off the headlights so all electrical current can go to the starter. Then when button is released relay falls out allowing headlights to come on. Check for that relay. Correct me if my memory is wrong, as I am old now (74 this month)

 

[bluetoad721]

Yes the headlight relay is my next theory! I just don’t know where on the bike that is!

 

[dnktng]

Yes the headlight relay is my next theory! I just don’t know where on the bike that is!

It's not the HEADLIGHT Relay. The Lo Beam would work if the headlight relay failed.

If you're going to spend some money on something go to Harbor Freight and spend $6 on a disposable volt meter.

 

[bluetoad721]

It's not the HEADLIGHT Relay. The Lo Beam would work if the headlight relay failed.

If you're going to spend some money on something go to Harbor Freight and spend $6 on a disposable volt meter.

Position bulb
Works it’s just burnt out

 

[Chucksklrst]

It's not the HEADLIGHT Relay. The Lo Beam would work if the headlight relay failed.

If you're going to spend some money on something go to Harbor Freight and spend $6 on a disposable volt meter.

Yep, based on this drawing dnktng is correct. Like I said it is been almost 9 years since I started a NT700.

 

[bluetoad721]

It's not the HEADLIGHT Relay. The Lo Beam would work if the headlight relay failed.

If you're going to spend some money on something go to Harbor Freight and spend $6 on a disposable volt meter.

where should i test volt?

 

[dnktng]

where should i test volt?

Before checking volts listen for the Headlight Relay clicking when going from Lo to Hi beam. It's not real loud but can be heard. Take off the seat. Put your ear on the left side where the voltage regulator is, the relay is just below there in a little box with 3 other relays. It's about 6" to the rear of the battery, on the left side outside of the left side support rail, between the left saddle bag and rail. Turn the ignition key on and wait for the fuel pump and self check noises to stop. Stick your ear near the regulator and turn the Hi Beam switch to high and back to Lo. You should hear the Headlight Relay click. Mine is more perceptive going to Hi than going to Lo, but can be distinctively heard switching either direction. If you hear it clicking the 20A fuse, Starter Button, Hi/Lo Beam Switch and Headlight Relay are good. If not clicking is heard... voltage checks.

Try these:

1. Turn ignition key on and check for 12vdc on both sides of the 20A headlight fuse to chassis ground (or the Neg - Battery terminal). There are little holes on top of the fuse to stick the probe tips in. Expect 12VDC on both sides.

2. Pull the Lo beam bulb out. Turn ignition on. Check for voltage at the bulb socket with one lead at each terminal in the socket. Expect 12 vdc across the socket terminals. If you get 12 vdc the bulb is likely burnt out.

3. If you get 0VDC in step 2, that means the power is not getting to the socket. Leave the Lo Beam Bulb out. Try to determine which is the green and which is the white wire going into the Lo Beam Bulb socket. Turn Ignition on. Check for voltage from the white side terminal in the Lo Beam Bulb socket to the either side of the 20A fuse. Expect 0VDC if good. If you get 12VDC it's either the starter switch or wiring from the 20A fuse to the Lo Beam Bulb socket.

 

[DirtFlier]

Perhaps a good time to buy a genuine Honda Service Manual?

 

[mikesim]

Thank you for the wiring diagram!
so if my problem isn’t the bulb, the fuse, the ignition switch (i cleaned it with electrical cleaner and wd-40 like people suggested), or the wiring, what should I replace next?

Don't replace anything until you have verified that it is truly bad. If you are willing to throw money at it, just save yourself some aggravation and money and take it to a mechanic... you will probably save yourself some dough in the long run.

Mike

 

[mikesim]

Before checking volts listen for the Headlight Relay clicking when going from Lo to Hi beam. It's not real loud but can be heard. Take off the seat. Put your ear on the left side where the voltage regulator is, the relay is just below there in a little box with 3 other relays. It's about 6" to the rear of the battery, on the left side outside of the left side support rail, between the left saddle bag and rail. Turn the ignition key on and wait for the fuel pump and self check noises to stop. Stick your ear near the regulator and turn the Hi Beam switch to high and back to Lo. You should hear the Headlight Relay click. Mine is more perceptive going to Hi than going to Lo, but can be distinctively heard switching either direction. If you hear it clicking the 20A fuse, Starter Button, Hi/Lo Beam Switch and Headlight Relay are good. If not clicking is heard... voltage checks.

Try these:

1. Turn ignition key on and check for 12vdc on both sides of the 20A headlight fuse to chassis ground (or the Neg - Battery terminal). There are little holes on top of the fuse to stick the probe tips in. Expect 12VDC on both sides.

2. Pull the Lo beam bulb out. Turn ignition on. Check for voltage at the bulb socket with one lead at each terminal in the socket. Expect 12 vdc across the socket terminals. If you get 12 vdc the bulb is likely burnt out.

3. If you get 0VDC in step 2, that means the power is not getting to the socket. Leave the Lo Beam Bulb out. Try to determine which is the green and which is the white wire going into the Lo Beam Bulb socket. Turn Ignition on. Check for voltage from the white side terminal in the Lo Beam Bulb socket to the either side of the 20A fuse. Expect 0VDC if good. If you get 12VDC it's either the starter switch or wiring from the 20A fuse to the Lo Beam Bulb socket.

In 99.9% of the relays I've tested, if they are clicking, they are good...... buuuuuut....... I have seen and heard clicking relays that are faulty. The best, 100% proof positive way to know what you are dealing with is to electrically test the circuit.

Mike

PS I hate to keep harping on this, but it is TRUE.

 

[dnktng]

In 99.9% of the relays I've tested, if they are clicking, they are good...... buuuuuut....... I have seen and heard clicking relays that are faulty. The best, 100% proof positive way to know what you are dealing with is to electrically test the circuit.

Mike

PS I hate to keep harping on this, but it is TRUE.

Context matters. In this context the relay clicking is an additional symptom to the original symptom of both Hi and Lo beams not working. If the relay clicks AND both the Hi and Lo beam have failed the cause is not the relay as the relay can not cause the Lo beam to fail. More importantly, if the relay clicks it eliminates the likely starter switch contacts and proves that power is getting through the common fuse. All done without trying to get a meter on the starter button contacts, or relay, or fuses.

 

[mikesim]

Context matters. In this context the relay clicking is an additional symptom to the original symptom of both Hi and Lo beams not working. If the relay clicks AND both the Hi and Lo beam have failed the cause is not the relay as the relay can not cause the Lo beam to fail. More importantly, if the relay clicks it eliminates the likely starter switch contacts and proves that power is getting through the common fuse. All done without trying to get a meter on the starter button contacts, or relay, or fuses.

Very good point! When I replied, I neglected to consider the ramifications of your suggestion. I was just trying to suggest to the OP that he try to solve the problem rather than throwing parts at it hoping for an easy fix.

Mike

 

[WVRider]

I did have the plastic start button (plastic box) inside the housing break one time. I pinched it back together and melted a separate piece of plastic on it for a temporary fix and then ordered the entire right switch assy.. The temporary fix held for a long time till I could change it out. If you haven't opened up that handlebar switch and inspected it, you may want to.

 

[Woodaddict]

well its my turn,,,,,,, both my headlights are out. figured its the bulb, so I changed it. Still didn't work. The position light is ON. Put in new 20A fuse, still didn't work. Now I'm thinking its behind the starter button. Never had that right hand control off for any work - ever! I'll try to get some silicone spray in there before taking right hand assembly off

EDIT: low beam bulb is on top, right?

 

[mikesim]

well its my turn,,,,,,, both my headlights are out. figured its the bulb, so I changed it. Still didn't work. The position light is ON. Put in new 20A fuse, still didn't work. Now I'm thinking its behind the starter button. Never had that right hand control off for any work - ever! I'll try to get some silicone spray in there before taking right hand assembly off

EDIT: low beam bulb is on top, right?

Yup! I would use WD40 or contact cleaner vs plain silicone spray though.

Mike