Where is the headlight relay for the 2010 Nt700v

[Woodaddict]

wahoo!! lights working again! I didn't check if they were on when I left the house for work @ 1:15 pm. But leaving work @ 10:30pm, lights on. So maybe right hand control just needed some lube to let the "whatever" move back in place after a start.

Last night when lights didn't work on my ride home in dark, nice to have my auxiliary 900 lumens each driving lights to get me home!!

I did find out another maintenance item to do tho. As I was looking down to take off rubber boot on back of light housing, there was fork oil around fork tube. So got one leaking, @ 105,800 miles. They start leaking after 95,000 miles or so, that is what the silver did.

 

[ST1100Y]

Yup! I would use WD40 or contact cleaner vs plain silicone spray though.

Those switch-pods require annual maintenance (especially when parked outside, get used in heavy weather/year round, and/or undergo intense high-pressure washing...)

WD40 is primarily displacing water, barely lubricating, a short time cure at max... (and messy seeping out...)
Contact cleaner solvents can be aggressive unless marked safe for use on plastic... (and not nice to paint when dripping out the switch)
Silicone oil might free stuck mechanical parts though, but increases contact resistance when getting on them...

The best, reliable, long term fix is going all the way...
- access the wiring and disconnect the switch's connector shell from the harness
- remove the switch pods from the bar, remember that those are JIS screws, and where the longer and the shorter one has to go to not ruin the housings later
- sit at the bench, put the switch you'll work on inside a transparent freezer bag, carefully fold it open and start disassembling
(there spring loaded balls inside, the bag keeps them from flying into the abyss...)
- clean all and everything, lube all moving parts with plastic approved, waterproof grease (i.e. silicon or marine grease)
- inspect all soldering points for damage
- clean all contacts (fine water-sanding paper, nail file...)
- threat all contacts with corrosion inhibition/conductivity improving solvent (like ACF-50, great stuff)
- assemble spring loaded things inside the freezer bag
- when putting self tapping screws back into plastic always rotate them counterclockwise first till you feel the threads locking in, then clockwise to tighten
- threat the outside of the housing with a plastic replenishing product like Spray Cleaner & Polish while at it
- install switch back on the bar, observe the pin in the lower half has to go into a bore in the tube, preventing it from rotating, and where the short/long screws go
- also apply the ACF-50 on the crimp contacts inside the connector shells when re-attaching (I do the same on all relay sockets)

Done right those switches should serve trouble free for at least a year or two...

The ignition-lock switch-plate could use the same service, but that involves digging in deep for access...

 

[mikesim]

A very thorough description of the procedure. I would add that once the spring loaded balls fly off into the abyss they are never to be seen again. It is said that they are transported to another as yet undiscovered dimension. Many folks with a theological bent feel that once you die you will enter this dimension where you will be reunited with the aforementioned balls, carburetor clips, single socks and the pearl handled Case pocket knife you lost as a kid. Perhaps our resident pastor, Phil, can enlighten us about this dimension.



Mike

 

[ST1100Y]

A very thorough description of the procedure. I would add that once the spring loaded balls fly off into the abyss they are never to be seen again. It is said that they are transported to another as yet undiscovered dimension. Many folks with a theological bent feel that once you die you will enter this dimension where you will be reunited with the aforementioned balls, carburetor clips, single socks and the pearl handled Case pocket knife you lost as a kid. Perhaps our resident pastor, Phil, can enlighten us about this dimension.

Arrr... but you omitted the notorious 10mil socket matey...

Dang!

... found it

 

[dnktng]

Dang!

... found i

Cool!

Get it? ... i'll see myself out.

 

[mikesim]

Cool!

Get it? ... i'll see myself out.

stat's a miracle!

I'll see myself out too.....

Mike

 

[Phil Tarman]

A very thorough description of the procedure. I would add that once the spring loaded balls fly off into the abyss they are never to be seen again. It is said that they are transported to another as yet undiscovered dimension. Many folks with a theological bent feel that once you die you will enter this dimension where you will be reunited with the aforementioned balls, carburetor clips, single socks and the pearl handled Case pocket knife you lost as a kid. Perhaps our resident pastor, Phil, can enlighten us about this dimension.



Mike

Mike, I do have a theological bent to my understanding of this dimension, but that dimension where lost things are transported is beyond my ken. I have to wait, just like you do, till I am transported from this earthly dimension.

 

[mikesim]

Mike, I do have a theological bent to my understanding of this dimension, but that dimension where lost things are transported is beyond my ken. I have to wait, just like you do, till I am transported from this earthly dimension.

Oh well, I guess it shall remain one of life's mysteries. While we are waiting, I hope to get some riding in with you.

Mike

 

[Phil Tarman]

Amen to that!!

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

Stop using WD40 in electrical contacts and switches. It leaves a residue that will collect dirt.

 

[Woodaddict]

follow-up on my situation........ I installed a right hand control module, now I got back my headlights working. Before that I had checked fuse again, disconnected headlight harness from main harness, did not see any corrosion. Took the right hand control apart and looked at it. Took the inside metal plate off that holds down the starter slide mechanism, nothing looked bad, but dielectric grease to see I could make better contact. It worked 1 day, then not 3 or 4 days in a row, then again 1 day, then no more. So I bought the RHCM, its just $26, now works again. Something in there not making good contact. all better again!!

 

[ST1100Y]

It worked 1 day, then not 3 or 4 days in a row, then again 1 day, then no more.

When getting my GF her `07 NT700VA I'd to put a new battery in (unfortunately selected a GEL type) and ended up with a similar symptom in which you'd to dip the starter button 3~4 times until it not only clicked, but actually cranked (and then pretty lame)...
Serviced all switches and connections plus installed a LiPoFE4... now that starter really spins, and it fires promptly due more stable voltage... (GEL type batteries have a rather high internal resistance)