Yet Another Lowering Thread, via a shorter Rear Shock Eye

[kenstone]

OK, the "kit" (Shock eye) I ordered/bought from Amazon showed up today and I thought I'd post a pic of what my $100 got me.

I'll be putting it on the workbench until after the rally as I don't want to be caught with the bike apart

My plan is to remove the shock and build a shock spring compressor that will fit/use my HF bike lift for the compression force.
I'll try and use available, off the shelf, hardware (and lumber?), so anyone can make one with common hand tools.

If I have to weld something I'll share that design too, or loan the tool to anyone interested, and would pay me for the shipping.

For the bearing pressage, I've had luck using a big bench vise with the shock end sandwiched between 2 sockets, one being about the same OD as the bearing, on one side, and a big enough socket to push the bearing into, on the other side.
Ken

 

[RedBird]

That sounds good! After riding my Triumph Scrambler all weekend, then the NT today, I'm again thinking of lowering the NT.

 

[kenstone]

Here's the instructions...rather generic:

 

[DirtFlier]

[...My plan is to remove the shock and build a shock spring compressor...or loan the tool to anyone interested, and would pay me for the shipping...]

It's the same kit I bought in January 2010 but the price was around $175 at the time. I made a spring compressor that uses two steel plates with the lower plate being held in a vise for stability. The force is applied by two all-thread rods that run parallel to the shock so you just tighten nuts on either side to compress the spring - simple is always better!

If you're willing the pay the postage, I can send you the plates and will include the dimensions for the all-thread rod, available at most hardware stores and places such as Home Depot. I believe the plates will fit into the smallest US Postal Priority Mail box with a charge of around $6 for anywhere in the continental US. I also have instructions for doing the mod as there are a few tricks involved in getting the shock out and in.

If you're interested, send me a PM.

Tosh

ps. Using the Harbor Freight lift to compress the spring is not a practical idea since you'll be working with the shock eye on the garage floor? Going in the opposite direction, if you put it on the lift table and fitted a long beam to the ceiling, it might work but it seems terribly dangerous to me. Much easier to do that work on the bench with the shock fixture held securely in a vise.

 

[kenstone]

Tosh:

Thanks for the offer, I have a design/sketch using threaded rod (all thread) after seeing one online for conventional shocks.
My concern with this arrangement is, with the forces involved, that such a device could become unstable.
Keep in mind I've never seen this shock removed from the bike, and know my concerns could be unfounded.

My idea for using the bike lift as a spring compressor is having the lift up on the bench, visualize an inverted U that attaches to the outside rails of the base, with one eye the shock being placed (in a nest) on the lifting platform and jacking would push the other eye up thru a hole on the U shaped element, compressing the spring, exposing the the eye to be removed.

This type of dialogue is good for us all, and you should conceder putting together a "How to" write-up of the process.
I really like the idea of traveling loaner tools for NT forum members and have done it in another forum.

Thanks again for the offer of the spring compressor plates, the instructions, and hints.
All this will save me time and aggravations for sure.
I will never complain about getting too much information

I'll be sending you a pm soon,
Ken

 

[RedBird]

Ditto for me, I'll send you a pm also. Maybe after Ken gets done with the plates, he can send them on to Ken (me). No rush though as I haven't bought the shock eye yet.

 

[kenstone]

I have to believe the -35mm lowering amount is measured at the wheel and the the new shock eye is not 35mm shorter the the stock eye, but a lot less.

I've dropped the rear of a different bike 2" and it did not affect the kickstand, although on that bike the kickstand pivot was way closer to the front wheel than the NT kickstand is.

 

[DirtFlier]

[...the -35mm lowering amount is measured at the wheel and the the new shock eye is not 35mm shorter the the stock eye, but a lot less...]


The HyperPro shock eye is only 10 mm shorter than the original but because of the leverage ratio of wheel travel-to-shock travel (approx 3.6 to 1), this results in the seat being lowered 35 mm (1-3/8"). I initially cut my sidestand the recommended amount but wasn't happy with how upright the bike sat. With me seated, it was difficult to get the sidestand up without having to tip the bike far to the right - which on a dirt shoulder can be dicey. I ended up cutting it a 2nd time and this time made a new round foot of 1/8" steel x 3" diameter so sinking in dirt or green blacktop is no longer a concern.

 

[Warren]

As an FYI I believe in an older post on this subject it was mentioned that removing the rubber bumpers from the bottom of the seat will lower the seat 1/2". I can not confirm this but it would be easy to check and would be easy to reverse if it was not helpful and costs nothing to try.

 

[kenstone]

[...the -35mm lowering amount is measured at the wheel and the the new shock eye is not 35mm shorter the the stock eye, but a lot less...]


The HyperPro shock eye is only 10 mm shorter than the original but because of the leverage ratio of wheel travel-to-shock travel (approx 3.6 to 1), this results in the seat being lowered 35 mm (1-3/8"). I initially cut my sidestand the recommended amount but wasn't happy with how upright the bike sat. With me seated, it was difficult to get the sidestand up without having to tip the bike far to the right - which on a dirt shoulder can be dicey. I ended up cutting it a 2nd time and this time made a new round foot of 1/8" steel x 3" diameter so sinking in dirt or green blacktop is no longer a concern.

Good info right there, thanks for posting
I had a thought of just removing the stock shock eye, machining it shorter and drilling the hole deeper and retapping it, to save the $100, but no longer have access to a mill

I hadn't done the math (thanks for posting it) but will measure and compare the new and old eye (wait, you did that too!) and mention remachining as an option to buying the new/shorter eye.
By doing it that way, there's no messing with the bearing.

And the info on the kickstand will save me the 2nd shortening.
Do you recall how much you shortened it the 2nd time?
Did you just butt weld the kickstand or put a sleeve over the joint for added strength?
Thans again, Ken

 

[BillyDoc]

Hi Ken,

I just tried searching Amazon for "Hyperpro LK-H007-002-35 eye mount replacement kit" and several variations on that, and got no hits. Can you tell me what I did wrong? I would like to try this as well.

Thanks,

Bill

 

[kenstone]

Hi Ken,

I just tried searching Amazon for "Hyperpro LK-H007-002-35 eye mount replacement kit" and several variations on that, and got no hits. Can you tell me what I did wrong? I would like to try this as well.

Thanks,

Bill

Bill:
Try this link
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=Hyperpro+Rear+Lowering+Kit+Honda+NT700
or this:
http://www.amazon.com/Hyperpro-Rear-Lowering-Kit-Adjustment/dp/B00BOZ6P2M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372881160&sr=8-1&keywords=Hyperpro+Rear+Lowering+Kit+Honda+NT700

I searched this phrase: Hyperpro Rear Lowering Kit Honda NT700
Good Luck, Ken

 

[DirtFlier]

[...Do you recall how much you shortened it the 2nd time? Did you just butt weld the kickstand or put a sleeve over the joint for added strength?..]

The round disc (the new foot) is right against the U-shaped loop that you use to put the sidestand down. I only have a Hobart 135 so took it to a friend's welding shop in town and both times, it was a butt weld which is plenty strong because the weight of the bike when resting on the sidestand is pushing against the weld, not in shear or trying to bend it.

The HyperPro part doesn't come with the needle bearing and seals so you'll have to press those out of the old shock eye and press them into the new part. It did it using my bench vise and two sockets.

 

[DirtFlier]

[...in an older post on this subject it was mentioned that removing the rubber bumpers from the bottom of the seat will lower the seat 1/2"..."]

That's true and I looked into it initially but never made the change. Those bumpers are there to give the seat pan "soft" support and my concern was that direct contact between the frame rails and the plastic seat pan could eventually cause it to crack.

 

[BillyDoc]

Thanks Ken!

I actually found those, but the picture looks completely different and that threw me off. The number looks right though, so I'm ordering it.

Bill

 

[EODEAN]

I did some searching and came up with this one.

http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/2010-honda-nt700v--VORTEX-LOWERING-LINKS-225

Still haven't made the jump to the NT. But looking for options for it.

 

[kenstone]

Yet Another Lowering Thread, via a shorter Rear Shock Eye UPDATE

Well the temperatures here have been below 100F and I'm running out of excuses not to change the shock eye.

But I have added this element to the lowering project:redface:

 

[Warren]

Herman Munster boots?

 

[kenstone]

Hey, they're logging boots
I was gonna go for some disco boots with goldfish in the heels

DirtFlier: PM sent

 

[BillyDoc]

Would those of you who have already lowered their NT please post any tips for doing the job and also impressions of the bike handling, any problems, etc.? I bought the kit, but I still haven't made up my mind on whether or not to make the change. The only two "downsides" I can think of, though, are a greater possibility of dragging during a corner (I've managed this already with the stock setup, and it scared me), and wetter feet when it has rained. Your experiences, please?

Bill