Honda Type 2 Coolant: Really need to be changed every 2 years or 24k miles ??

Ett, when you service the cooling system on the NT you have undoubtedly noticed that there is a plastic shroud? that covers the radiator cap. When you have the side cowl off this time, take a Dremel or saw of some sort and remove the 2" square piece of plastic obscuring the cap. In so doing, you will never have to remove the side cowl again to service the cooling system.

Mike
 
Actually, there was a time in the last century when coolant and oil were important. My dad was a GM production engineer. He was privy to non public tests GM did on motor oils. There were differences. And the good Lord help you if you mixed Pennsylvania grade parrifin based oil with Texas grade oil. The feral govt changed that so that all oils must be able to be mixed. And oils kept gettting better and better. But even in 2003, you could tell right away that the Concours C10 shifted better with 20w-50 in the summer than 10w-40. And motorcycle transmissions did have the ability to shear the molucules faster than car engines. Now we live in the world of JASO-MA and MA 2. And the book will tell you the viscosity. My subaru book demands synthectic oil and the oil be changed at 6 months. Fine. 0w-20. Oil does lots of things it never did now. It operates Vtec systems, cam posiiton machinery, etc. And the Honda dual pump hydrolic oil that goes into the rear differential of a CRV works the AWD system and its change interval has been shortened to 40k. I feel brake fluid can be come contaminatied but at least it is easy to replace with speed bleeders and other kits.
At one time, there were big differences in gasoline addivtive packages. When the big 3 had to demostrate to the EPA that their emmisions equipment would last, they couldnt get Chevron with Techron near the testing site, so they had it trucked in 600 miles. Now, any Toptier gas meets that standard.....
Here is an old article that still rings true.
www.caranddriver.com

Your Car is a Temple, so Put in the Good Stuff.

Read Larry Webster's column at Car and Driver.
www.caranddriver.com www.caranddriver.com

oil thread.jpg
 
I just changed the oil in my NT. They had 5 liter jugs of 5/40 Super-Tech full synthetic non energy conserving....$14. So I thought....what the heck. I will see how it is in regards to the transmission shifting. If it gets notchy, I will go back to T-6.
 
Hondafan said:
I just changed the oil in my NT. They had 5 liter jugs of 5/40 Super-Tech full synthetic non energy conserving....$14. So I thought....what the heck. I will see how it is in regards to the transmission shifting. If it gets notchy, I will go back to T-6.
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It's not rated MA or MA2 but since it is non energy conserving I suspect you will be OK with it.

Mike
 
ST1100Y said:
the pre ready-mix and pre maintenance free aeons... 😏

For peace of mind I'd rather spend a little more on a quality, certified, silicate free coolant (BelRay for the ST, Motul on the NT) and live 4 years on that...
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Antifreeze now is amazing if you lived through the 1960s.....the patrol fleet manager didnt even care if you ever changed it...it was that good back in 2004
 
mikesim said:
It's not rated MA or MA2 but since it is non energy conserving I suspect you will be OK with it.

Mike
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Just sayin' If it doesnt day JASO MA or MA 2, forgetaboutit. T4 is great stuff and cheep.....how lucky do you feel?
 
Earlier this year, I wrote for another group...

—————————————-

COOLANT

Do not mix antifreezes. Not just types but even different formulas from the same manufacturer. In addition to not freezing, antifreeze is made to combat corrosion. Manufacturers use different chemicals and recipes. If mixed, some chemicals cancel each other out. The result is reduced protection.

The Deauville engine has been around for more than 30 years. The specified coolant is ‘high quality ethylene glycol antifreeze containing corrosion protection inhibitors’ with the instruction to ‘replace every 2 years, or at the indicated odometer intervals [24,000 miles], whichever comes first’ together with the warning ‘Using coolant with silicate corrosion inhibitors may cause premature wear of water pump seals or blockage of radiator passages. Using tap water may cause engine damage.’

Things change and usually improve. I consider replacing the coolant with a modern one, as they appear to be more stable. The figures of 100,000 miles and ten years are bandied around.

The shelf life of my chosen brew is five years and I buy five litres. The total capacity of the NT700 is 2.28 litres.

Comma Super Longlife Red Antifreeze & Coolant - Ready To Use - 5 Litre

www.ebay.co.uk

Comma Super Longlife Red Antifreeze & Coolant - Ready To Use - 5 Litre | eBay

5 Year Longlife Protection. Based on coolant concentrate that conforms to: BS6580:2010. We will do everything to solve any problem. Top Service. Headquarters is based in Northampton, United Kingdom.
www.ebay.co.uk


The system will be flushed twice with tap water, twice with tumble drier condensate, then with distilled water and then charged with the coolant. Hopefully, there will be nothing to report other than good running and the next change in 2026.

If after 2,000 miles, I find myself with time and the fairing off, then the coolant may be changed again. The idea being that by then, anything foreign will be neutralised and corrosion protection will be bolstered. It will be a simple drain and refill with no flush. In any case, the coolant will just go off in the container.

References are specific to the NT700.

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I have 4 older Honda's and change the coolant every 3-4 years, whether they have been ridden or not. My main concern is radiator corrosion and water pump lubricant. I never get the old stuff fully out, as i do not remove the drains at the base of the cylinders. I recently did a coolant change and used Prestone all makes pre-mix. These bikes are all over 25 years old and I haven't had any issues.....yet. This is just an observation and not a recommendation.
 
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