25K service

ephratah

ephratah

Joined
May 31, 2022
Messages
4
Location
Ephratah NY
I just purchased a used NT700V with 25K on the clock and have no history on the bike looking for recommendation on what should be serviced at this mileage.
Came with 2 new tires that need to be mounted and balanced so I am going to take it in and have these done and would like to have the service done at the same time.
Also not sure if I should use an independent shop use a dealer.
 
Unfortunately, most Honda dealers have never seen an NT let alone work on one in their shop!

Obviously the fluids need changing, brake fluid drained and refilled then bled.
 
To what DirtFlier said I'd add rear drive fluid, air filter and plugs. Since you're going to have the rear wheel off; lube the drive splines and you might want to replace the two o-rings that seal things up back there.

From your other post it would appear that you would be well able to do the work yourself .. these bikes are not hard to work on.
 
Adding to what my associates already suggested, be sure that when you lube the final drive splines you use the proper Honda lube or it's equivalent. The drive splines are subject to fretting corrosion thus require a higher pressure grease than conventional automotive grease. The Honda product and it's commercial equivalent have a high percentage of molybdenum disulfide. The Honda product is M77 Assembly paste. Make sure that everytime the rear wheel is removed, the splines are lubricated. I keep a tube of the stuff with me at all times and hand it to the mechanic that is working on your bike. It's amazing to me that a good many mechanics have never heard of or don't use this product. It will save you a costly spline repair down the road.

Also, at 25K, the valve clearance "should" have been done at least once. If you do not know if it has been done then I would recommend doing so to establish a base interval for future scheduled maintenance. Honda reommends this adjustment every 8K miles but most of the folks on the forum use a ~30K interval for this item. It is not terribly difficult, but it is time consuming and somewhat pricey to have a shop do it. Virtually all the front fairing has to be removed for access, the fuel tank elevated or removed and the throttle bodies removed. This would be an ideal time to change engine coolant as well. Use only Honda silica free coolant or equivalent. A readily available equivalent is Zerex Asian Blue.

Hope this info helps! Enjoy your new scoot!

Mike
 
As other posters have mentioned, it's good to do everything the first time then you know it's done and have a good baseline from that point onward.

When I do the valve clearance checks I always do the rear cyl first ("RT") because it's easier and accessible without removing the Fi. And as to removing the Fi, you'll find the clamp screw for the front throttle body impossible to see plus it has so many hoses in that area that it's difficult to tell what's happening when you loosen or tighten the screw!

Going back to the valve adj, I've found that NOT turning the crank to "FT" after finishing the rear cyl makes it much easier to remove the cylinder head cover for the front cyl head. If you do, turn it to FT, the exhaust rockers are UP and they make it difficult-to-impossible to get the cover past the front crossmember. Once that cover is free of the bike, I turn the crank to FT for adjusting.

ps. I would suggest buying a factory service manual. It seems as if someone is always selling one on this site. :)
 
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I'd also advice replacement of (rear) hub dampers and aluminum bushings...
Elimination of slag in the driveline will improve shifting.
 
Thanks for the replies I am new to NT700 had an older GL1200 that I sold 2 years ago just to big and heavy for what I needed and then my son bought A CBR300R and decided he was going to start riding so Dad bought a bike to ride with him. Hope to have a lot of good times and make some memories.
 
I do recall that installing the new rubber dampers into the rear wheel took a plastic mallet while the old ones just dropped out once that plate was removed.
 
DirtFlier said:
I do recall that installing the new rubber dampers into the rear wheel took a plastic mallet while the old ones just dropped out once that plate was removed.
Click to expand...
Definite sign they had worn, rubbing some talcum powder on them eases the installation of new ones.
 
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