After 10 hours and 650 miles. Here it is!

Joined
Jul 21, 2025
Messages
16
Location
Cumbria. England
Bike
2012 NT700 Black
Well, I'd like to say that didn't suck but damn. That sucked so much.

I'm not too used to long rides, I've always had sports bikes that murder your back (and ass) after an hour. But leaving my house at 3am yesterday morning I just wanted to get home. Stopped twice on there way there and on the way back. Managed to do the entire trip including a visit to my father in 14 hours.

Might think I am crazy for this, but the reason for the long trip is because the seller accepted £600 on my old 2001 Kawasaki and was selling the NT700 for £1600. So all in was £1000 for the NT, which is a damn good deal.

I must say, what an absolutely beautiful machine the NT700 is. Given the pictures and size, I could not believe how lightweight it is. I was seeing reviews of people saying it's bulky and heavy, clearly they haven't rode it because once I was moving it was better (seriously) better than my ZR7S.

I got caught in a bit of congestion on the motorway, and even with the extended panniers I was able to filter (legal in the UK) without a single problem.

Small niggles:
There is a clicking when I roll on the throttle, I already looked it up and a post here said it's somewhat normal? I can live with it as I had earplugs in and didn't hear it until I rode home without them in the last 10 minutes of my journey.

The panniers do need reinforcing though luckily are intact. I already have some JBWeld ready as suggested by another member here.

The bike seemed to like revving somewhat high, I often found at 60mph, 5th gear wasn't very well liked. But that might be me just getting used to the engine.

Other than that, perfect so far.
 

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The bike seemed to like revving somewhat high, I often found at 60mph, 5th gear wasn't very well liked. But that might be me just getting used to the engine.
Well, its "only" a 2-cyl... ;)
I briefly have similar adaption issues every time I'm hopping on my GF's '07 NT700VA, as the engine simply doesn't like to pull below ~2400rpm and won't feel "alive" below 4000rpm... 😏
But besides this, it provides just the long distance capabilities, comfort and stoic precise handling as my '00 ST1100 (OK, a lower fuel range); my GF loves that thing to bits and rides it Feb to Nov...

Besides mentioned pannier latching mechanism (I'd also inspect/reinforce the mounts for the locking mechanism in the pannier bases...), I'd give the drive spline some cleaning, inspection, and proper Molycote Gn plus lubrication (if found worn also new hub dampers and aluminum inserts...)
 
I'm lovin' my NT700. Loves to run at 65-70 MPH and is more fun and stable than I've experienced since my BMW R80RT.
 
I briefly have similar adaption issues every time I'm hopping on my GF's '07 NT700VA, as the engine simply doesn't like to pull below ~2400rpm and won't feel "alive" below 4000rpm...

I'd give the drive spline some cleaning, inspection, and proper Molycote Gn plus lubrication (if found worn also new hub dampers and aluminum inserts...)
It's probably something that just needs getting used too, I haven't rode much that needs high revs to move. It's a wonderful machine.

Hmm, not sure if I have the technical knowledge to do that. Any decent videos or guides to get there?
 
Spline maintenance is critical on many bikes, but seldom hard. FJR is the same. Spline and u joint near engine come right out at tire changing time. Nothing wrong with the NT. Perception is everything. Loved my years with mine, but wouldn't give you a nickel for another. My balance is going and my VFR and V strom balance fine at slow speeds. Just make sure you have a spare crank position sensor while you can still get them.
 
On the drive splines, it has been said that using the recommended lube (moly 60 paste) is important. Easy enough job to do once the rear wheel is removed.

Arknt
 
On the drive splines, it has been said that using the recommended lube (moly 60 paste) is important. Easy enough job to do once the rear wheel is removed.

Arknt
Just an opinion. Yamaha FJR manual says you MUST use THEIR rear end lube or the bike will blow up. "Shaft drive Oil Exclusive" by Yamaha. OK, so I use it. And I used the moly 60 on my NT. But I think any moly paste would work.
 
Moly pastes are not created equal. The Honda OE paste has a high percentage of Moly as do several other brands (whose names escape me). The mere presence of moly does not make all moly lubes equivalent. Specific applications require different moly concentrations. For example, a moly bearing grease has insufficient molybdenum disulfide to prevent the fretting corrosion that will occur on drivesplines, but is perefectly adequate for wheel bearings.

Mike
 
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