[Review] Helibar Pilot Performance Riser

[lcseds]

Helibar Tour Performance Pilot Riser Review


When I bought the NT I thought I would get used to the forward lean of the ergos on this bike. Of course few folks get to ride a bike for hours during a test ride. I soon found out that I was in a fair amount of discomfort during long rides (1.5 hrs +). I had shoulder pain (I did have an injury years ago, so this is not entirely the bikes fault). I had rear tailbone pain and a LOT of lower back pain. To help solve this, I purchased and installed the MCL riser kit giving me 1” rise and a small amount of pull back. I was able to rotate the bars a little also, but not much as the clutch cable was stretched as far as it could go. This helped a little, but I was looking for more help.

Enter the Helibar Tour Performance Pilot Riser.

This riser kit is radical compared to the typical 1” or 1.5” risers that are found for the NT700. This riser raises the handlebars 2.5” with a 3.5” pullback. Yep, it’s big. The riser block itself on the Pilot kit comes with a RAM ball attached and a Powerlet socket. The power cable harness for the Powerlet is sold separately for around $24. Or maybe you want to make you own cable. Another kit is apparently available for a little less and does not include the RAM ball and Powerlet socket. This kit is not inexpensive coming in at $379.00. Do-it-yourself folks will pass on this because of the cost. I am no mechanic and have no facility to tear down a bike and tinker. I needed a turn key kit that would also include the longer cables needed. This kit has it all. In addition to the riser block, you get everything else you need.

The kit includes the riser block, push/pull throttle cables, a replacement brake line and clutch cable, and hardware.

I was not planning on doing this myself so I took it to an independent bike shop for install. Tupperware, gas tank, etc needed to be removed to install. They had not dealt with this bike so even with the aide of my service manual, it took them just under 4 hours. However they said doing it again they could shave at least 30 minutes off that time. So the kit, plus installation cost me about $600. Sounds expensive, especially for a riser kit, but this kind of money can also be spent on a good seat to improve comfort. It’s all relative.

So, how is it? It makes a lot of difference for me. Looking at Cycle-ergo.com and using my stats, this riser kit puts me at the same ergos as the BMW RT1200, V-Strom and some other bikes considered to be excellent touring machines with very little lean. With the MCL or stock setup, any movement on the seat increased the lean and discomfort. With this kit, I can stay upright, or slide my rear back in the seat which applies more forward lean. So I feel my range of movement while riding is greater which should reduce fatigue. Oh, and it’s also is easier to get in those little storage boxes.

With MCL 1” Riser:

With Helibar Pilot Riser Kit:

I tried to get the photos as identical as possible, the angle and distance is off a bit. I think you get the general idea. The bike is on center stand with bike leaning back on rear tire. I am 5’ 6” with a 30” inseam. Arm length is about 31”.

So if this kit interests you, here’s how to get it. You can get it directly from Helibar with additional shipping costs.
http://www.helibars.com/product/helibars-tour-performance-pilot-riser-honda-nt700

Or, you can get it from where I did. A little shop called Naefcycle on eBay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380339872757&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Naef Cycle was very fast to reply when I emailed them questions. Shipping was FAST and there were no shipping charges saving you a few dollars.

I hope this helps those that want an upright seating position like the BMW touring rigs, on a mid size touring machine like the NT700. It’s an investment in comfort, and a heck of a lot less than I spent getting my cruiser “comfortable”.

 

[vacanefan]

That really did change the ergos drastically. I hope this makes longer rides more enjoyable for you.

 

[banjoboy]

Keep us posted over time what you think about your change. I'm interested but it is expensive.

Terry

 

[Phil Tarman]

I think I'd love the ergos, but I'd miss my tank bags. As far as this moves the bars, I'd guess that none of them would work.

 

[lcseds]

After about 1000 miles since install and a good 8 hour ride today, this riser kit has fixed the ergos on this bike for me. Zero pain now (other than normal right hand cramp after hours of riding). This was expensive, no more than a new seat, but it has delivered.

 

[boss57uk]

with the bars raised, is there any problems with ketting the key into the barrel has i find with the stock set up

 

[lcseds]

Did this mod help with the hand numbing high frequency vibrations felt through the stock setup?

Sam

Yes. The product itself does not absorb any vibration. But by not putting weight onto the bars with the stock lean, you your grip is lighter and the pressure on your palms is waaaaay lighter. This in itself lessens the vibrations transmitted through your hands. I have had grip puppies since day one. Between the two, it is rare now for me to have to shake my hands out.

 

[lcseds]

with the bars raised, is there any problems with ketting the key into the barrel has i find with the stock set up

I never liked how low the barrel was. The riser goes up and back to the rider. So while it creates a little extra space, the barrel is even deeper. I have gotten used to the barrel position, but I bought an extra top handlebar plate as I scratched the sugar out of the original.

 

[idevourcows]

I've got these risers on order, should be here middle of next week. I don't mind taking the plastic off my bike, but fooling with the brake lines makes me skittish, so I'll probably pay a local shop to do the install for me.

Your before and after pictures look pretty enticing to me!

 

[RedBird]

Brake lines - not so bad at all. I used a Mityvac kit that I got some years ago at Harbor Freight Tools. It has the mityvac suction pump and a cup that mounts in front of the pump using a short length of clear hose (2" or so) attached from the cup cap to the mityvac. At the other hose attaching point of the cup cap you attach a hose that is long enough to allow you to slip the other end of it over the brake bleed nipple. So, with the bike on the center stand and the bars turned full left (and towels/rags under the brake reservoir to protect your paint) suction out the brake fluid from the reservoir. When it is all out you can disconnect the brake line with little leakage. There will be some which is what the towels/rags are for. After connecting the new brake line, you fill the resevoir with new fluid, plug the hose onto the left front brake bleed nipple, open it up and pump the mityvac to suck the fluid down the new line. It helps if a friend can keep topping off the reservoir. Fill the cup with about 2" or a bit more of brake fluid then close the nipple, empty the cup, and switch the rig to the right front brake nipple. Repeat the process. Now work the brake lever to ensure that you have good action and no air in the lines. You may see some bubbles escaping in the resevoir at this point. Be sure to keep the handlebars full left. You now can use the tried and true squeeze the brake lever, open the bleed screw, watch for bubbles as fluid exits, close the bleed screw, release the brake lever method to verify no bubbles occur. When using the mityvac, you usually get both fluid from the resevoir and air from around the bleed nipple so you will see air in the line, but after you have sucked 2" of fluid into the cup the air is comming from the hose-nipple connection and most likely not from the brake line. The squeeze, open, close, release method will verify this since you are pushing fluid into the cup (disconnected from the mityvac) - but to try to do this to get fluid down the new empty brake line will take forever - so the mityvac or something similar makes this doable.

 

[hondaaddict]

I just installed a Helibar on mine. Awesome. Feels like great. But there's more buffetting when I put the windshield all the way up. Contempting if I should get a +6" shield or ride naked.

 

[lcseds]

Glad it worked for you. Spending that much was a gamble for me but really changed the whole riding experience for me on the NT. Wife loves it too after the change.

 

[hondaaddict]

Does anyone have problem with the throttle push cable on the Helibar kit? Mine is not long enough. When at full right turn position, that cable is very tight. I'm trying to contact Helibar, but haven't been able to.

 

[lcseds]

Not sure other than looking at routing to see if it is binding someplace. Mine are fine.

 

[jspringator]

Does anyone know why they won't fit the ABS model. I called Helibar and they said they were looking for a test mule. They said it wouldn't fit, but didn't know why.

 

[RedLdr1]

Does anyone know why they won't fit the ABS model. I called Helibar and they said they were looking for a test mule. They said it wouldn't fit, but didn't know why.

One of the brake hoses has a different connector on the ABS model....

 

[elizilla]

I'm sure that the actual riser part of the helibars would fit the ABS model. You could order them and use that part, then source the different brake hose from somewhere like Galfer. It's just a brake hose - you have to get the right length and the right fittings on the ends, but there are companies who make them to order, or sell the fittings to do it yourself. It would cost more since the Helibars kit would have to be augmented with hoses sourced elsewhere. But it's not impossible.

Helibar just hasn't done it because they don't have a bike to test fit it on. Send 'em a note and ask them if they'll sell you everything but the brake hose, and offer to let them know what you come up with when you source your own. They might give you a discount.

 

[jspringator]

I put bars from an 82 Aspencade on my Nighthawk. A perfect set off ebay was $40. I had to hack the wiring though. Hard enough to do on a 25 year old bike. No way I would do it on a new one. I wonder if they would sell you the wiring extensions. You could source everything else.

 

[prof98801]

Are you still satisfied with your Helibars for the NT? Have you noticed any difference in the handling of the bike on the twisties?

 

[Rmcapozzi]

I'll comment on my initial findings after having installed the Helibar on my wife's NT.

1. The instructions were fairly good. I will say that they did mess up on the order of removing the body panels be following the Honda Service manual. You have to remove the cowl side cover off FIRST and then you can remove the upper cowl lid cover. I also found that I really had to remove the air box (not a step they indicated was needed) to remove/install the throttle cables. There just wasn't enough room for me otherwise.
2. The cables (throttle and clutch) are high quality. The throttle cables are actually lined and of better quality than the OEM cables.
3. The improved ergonomics are HUGE! My wife just raves about it. She can sit back further which places her on the fatter part of the seat. This means her legs are less bent (more comfortable). She is able to sit taller so now she is sitting more on her butt checks than on her thighs (more comfortable).
4. The increased height of the bars makes getting into the pockets much easier. She can open each pocket fully with the bars pointing straight ahead (use to have to turn the bars to open the pockets fully).

Now for a few downsides (minor but good to know before you make the purchase)

1. The push throttle cable's mounting bolt's nut that attaches to the handlebar housing is larger than the OEM mounting bolt. That means the nut will come into contact with the back of the brake lever preventing the brake lever from fully depressing to the handlebar grip. I had to tighten the bolt completely flush with the throttle housing and then slightly rotate the brake lever down (maybe 1-2 degrees). This allowed the brake lever to no longer come into contact with the nut. The larger heated grips further distanced the lever from the nut. I may not have explained this well but I will be providing pictures on the install in a few days once I get things organized.
2. The Helibar prevents you from rotating the tank up. To lift the tank, I must now undue the rear bolt (the one you would normally leave alone) then I can shift the tank rearward and get the front of the tank past the Helibar. Once the front is free, you can reattach the rear bolt and then rest the tank on the bars like normal. So a few extra steps involved with that task.
3. If you are running OEM heated grips, you will NOT have enough wire to accommodate the additional pullback of the bars. I had to make a custom harness when installing the OEM heated grips. (I actually preferred this as I was able to get ride of the bullet plugs and run continuous slim runs of wire after some soldering making for a much better looking install).
4. For the ABS model, Helibar chose an ugly (probably less expensive) extension with a bleed port to extend the front brake line. I feel they should have provided a completely new upper line like the non-ABS model. This would have been more expensive due to the block fitting used by Honda on the ABS models for the upper line but it would have been more to the standard of the rest of their product.

I'd definitely recommend the product although I would like for them to fix the issue with the push cable's mounting nut. It took me and my wife a full 10-12 hour day to do the install ourselves (that includes fully purging/filling and bleeding the brake system which we needed to do anyways since her new 2010 is already 2 years old). It isn't particularly difficult but does take some time.

Are you still satisfied with your Helibars for the NT? Have you noticed any difference in the handling of the bike on the twisties?