How to replace Clutch and Throttle cable

oldtimer

oldtimer

Joined
Sep 19, 2013
Messages
66
Location
Mt Juliet TN
Bike
2010 NT700V Red
I'm in the process of installing a SW-Motech handlebar 1" riser. Both clutch and throttle cables are really more tight than I like, so I will replace the clutch cable with the longer Translap cable recommended by many. I think / hope if I disconnect the throttle cables on one end, they be rerouted just a little to get some more slack.

I've ordered service manuals but haven't received them yet so if anyone can give me some directions to replace the clutch cable and get access to the throttle cable I'd appreciate it.

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All I had to do when I installed bar risers on my first NT was clip the top tie clamp that was holding the cables. I had one clutch cable fail back in '12 when the bike was at about 45,000 miles. It had popped the seam in the ferrule at the clutch handle and I saw some broken cable strands. We were at a Pre-National-Rally Rally near Basalt. I noticed it on Saturday and was planning on riding to Montrose to see my son and his wife. I called the Honda dealer in Montrose about an hour before they closed on Saturday and had them put a rush order on two clutch cables, the stock one and the longer Trans Alp one. I only used the clutch when I was starting and stopping and shifted clutchless when going up and down the gears. I made it to Montrose and to the Honda dealer on Tuesday. They got me on the road home to Ft. Morgan before noon. The TransAlp cable didn't come until the day after I left Montrose. Since I had paid for it, I had them ship it to me and sold it to someone on the Forum. The 2nd stock cable is still on the bike at 139,000+ miles. Or at least it was when I traded it in for Horse last summer.
 
I raised my bars 2" and had to replace the clutch cable. I could not get any more length out the throttle cables, so I reduced the steering lock on the right side with a 1/8" shim. Later I read somewhere on this forum that ST1300 throttle cables are longer and fit the NT.
 
The 1" risers are in and they are a significant improvement. I did need to remove the top holding clamp on the brake cable and reposition the throttle cables at the throttle grip, buy moving the 90 degree metal section down. Just loosen the lock nut and move the cable down a bit. Lock to lock everything was free. On the down side, even with the 1" riser I'm still leaning too far forward, with too much pressure on the hands. So, I would like to try a two inch 20210717_110830.jpg20210717_110830.jpgView attachment 1800420210717_110830.jpgView attachment 18004bar back, with 2" up and 1" back. This will definitely require the longer clutch cable, longer throttle cable and longer brake cable. Thanks for the tip on the ST ST1300 cables, I will check more into this.
 
Attach a string to your clutch cable before removing and use the string to plll the longer one through. The routing will be same. Super easy.
 
Instead of string I just taped the new cable to the old one and when I pulled the old one out, voila! the new one was in place. Now detaching the old cable from the lever on the right side engine cover is a different story. I removed the right side mid cowl from the bike which gave me very easy access to everything. I believe that if you are patient and hold your tongue just right you can probably replace it with the cowl in place. I was gonna try it and then reminded myself that I no longer have the dexterity for fiddly jobs and tend to be a crabby SOB when confronted with them so I opted to removed the cowl which made it easier but more time consuming. Time I've got a lot of, patience, not so much ...

Mike
 
I just spent the last hour trying to find any manufacturer that still sells a 2" bar back for the NT. I looked at ROX, Heli, SW-Motech and they all say they are no longer available. Any ideas? jim
 
Awesome. I don't know why I couldn't find them but I sure appreciate you sending the link. Just ordered them. I'll check out the ST 1300 throttle cables next week. Thanks, jim
 
oldtimer said:
The 1" risers are in and they are a significant improvement. I did need to remove the top holding clamp on the brake cable and reposition the throttle cables at the throttle grip, buy moving the 90 degree metal section down. Just loosen the lock nut and move the cable down a bit. Lock to lock everything was free. On the down side, even with the 1" riser I'm still leaning too far forward, with too much pressure on the hands. So, I would like to try a two inch View attachment 18004View attachment 18004bar back, with 2" up and 1" back. This will definitely require the longer clutch cable, longer throttle cable and longer brake cable. Thanks for the tip on the ST ST1300 cables, I will check more into this.
Click to expand...

I am thinking of getting 1 inch offset risers.. I think a lot ..


any one have any experiences with such kind of risers OR the pivoting kind on the NT ......

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I have the pivoting type of Rox Riser but with the rubber damper. Although they are called 2" rise the real measurement is 2-3/8" taller than standard.
 
DirtFlier said:
I have the pivoting type of Rox Riser but with the rubber damper. Although they are called 2" rise the real measurement is 2-3/8" taller than standard.
Click to expand...

thanks, can I trouble you for a few overall and closeup pics... did you have to use longer cables?
 
MikeSim - I recently had to swap clutch cables on my bike and also Deb's NT (see Easy Clutch posting) and the trick I used was to tape together the ends of cables at the engine. I always try and make the bulb of taped-up ends as small and smooth as possible. Once, done I just pull/wiggle the old cable from the top and the new one emerges!

As regards making the lower end hookup to the swivel arm on the clutch cover, if you remove the plastic winglet you can actually see the parts and it makes correct mating much easier. With that winglet in place, you're just flying blind!
 
Sunny - here are the Rox Riser/w rubber dampers and "Yes" I had to use longer cables. I had those cables custom-made by Motion Pro because the Trans-Alp cable was too short to work with this setup. Having the rubber damper makes it feel as if fork travel is extended by 1" and I no longer feel the engine vibrations at 60+ MPH through the grips. The buzzing in the grips for my main reason for trying these risers.

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