Just bought a NT700! New too the forum!

[BrewMyTea]

Hello,

I've just purchased a 2012 NT700 ABS and will be trading in my old 2001 Kawasaki ZR7S.

My very ever first motorcycle was a Deauville 650 and after 7 years, mistakes, regrets and many motorcycle in-between we've come full circle back to the Deauville.

The bike could do with a bit of TLC to bring it back to life, seems cosmetically it's been a bit neglected (same could be said for my ZR7S) but I have no issues with that given the price I have paid.

I'm going to collect my NT on Tuesday next week, I was wondering if there is anything to look out for. I've done the basic stuff, HPI check and MOT service history (nothing of note) and the V5 is present. Anything too look out for on the NTs that are common at all?

I plan to give it a full service once I get it home, but this will be after a 5 hour ride home. I would consider a van but seems like a waste of a good ride out!

There really isn't anything like the Deauville and it's such an untapped market. Integrated panniers with a shaft drive is a tourers dream. Honda really needs too consider making a modern version!

Thanks

 

[Sunny]

Congrats....

Check the pannier latches and the areas surrounding them for cracks etc.. that is the only weakness of these bikes.. and lack of 6th Gear

First thing you should do once you get the bike is to reinforce those latches and the plastic bosses.

 

[NewTo700V]

and lack of 6th Gear

Why do NT owners keep saying this? That baby V-Twin doesn't have the umph to take advantage of an even taller gear than 5th. I had mine on the Interstate flying into the desert winds. Found myself downshifting to 4th to bring revs up as 5th didn't have it. Can't imagine having asked it for a 6th.

 

[Warren]

Why do NT owners keep saying this? That baby V-Twin doesn't have the umph to take advantage of an even taller gear than 5th. I had mine on the Interstate flying into the desert winds. Found myself downshifting to 4th to bring revs up as 5th didn't have it. Can't imagine having asked it for a 6th.

Most of those saying it needs a 6th gear also say it needs 10 more HP. This has been going on in the forum since I joined in 2010.

 

[NewTo700V]

My only "should of" critique of NT ownership was the big lids should have been standard equipment, not an accessory.

 

[BrewMyTea]

I'd never be upset with more horsepower but can't ask too much for a middleweight shaft drive. Probably the main reason they don't bother with modern middleweight shaft drives given 100BHP is the new "normal" nowadays. But functionality over speed is my preference anyway, it'll do 80+ comfortably, that's plenty.

I've seen a few modifications to the side panniers, the one I have purchased doesn't seem to have those. Hopefully the factory latches are still working!

I was pleasantly surprised to see my bike comes with the larger panniers!

 

[Sunny]

Why do NT owners keep saying this? That baby V-Twin doesn't have the umph to take advantage of an even taller gear than 5th. I had mine on the Interstate flying into the desert winds. Found myself downshifting to 4th to bring revs up as 5th didn't have it. Can't imagine having asked it for a 6th.

Between physics and Heart, the Heart can pine for things that Physics deems unnecessary ..

 

[NewTo700V]

Probably the main reason they don't bother with modern middleweight shaft drives given 100BHP is the new "normal" nowadays.

Your point got me thinking, what's left in that <100 hp class for a 2025 model? The Shadow 750, Fury, Boulevard C50 and Moto Guzzis? I can't think of anything else, maybe some obscure BMW?

 

[NewTo700V]

But functionality over speed is my preference anyway, it'll do 80+ comfortably, that's plenty.

80 kph or 80 mph? I see you're in the UK, and I imagine the Deauville's power limits are more at home there. I felt like I was asking a bit much of mine flying across the Great Plains of the US where our semis (articulated lorry for you?) are doing 80+ mph. On the plus, it made a handful of such east to west coast 2,600 miles each way and never left me stranded.

 

[BrewMyTea]

Your point got me thinking, what's left in that <100 hp class for a 2025 model? The Shadow 750, Fury, Boulevard C50 and Moto Guzzis? I can't think of anything else, maybe some obscure BMW?

Yeah I have been look around for some newer shaft drive motorcycles for a while, whilst you can tour with ease on a chain driven motorcycle, the ease and maintenance of shaft is significantly easier. Plus I just like them. I did look at the Moto Guzzis but between the seat height, the styling, weight/balance and the technology. I wasn't a huge fan.

Of course the BMW have their touring range but they're all obscenely big and heavy, I'm not sure how smaller riders like me can enjoy them. I had a look at the R18 and the K1600GTL. I was looking at the S1000XR but they made that chain which such a shame. Look perfect, especially considering they're the only ones left that do factory lowered suspension nowadays.

80 kph or 80 mph? I see you're in the UK, and I imagine the Deauville's power limits are more at home there. I felt like I was asking a bit much of mine flying across the Great Plains of the US where our semis (articulated lorry for you?) are doing 80+ mph. On the plus, it made a handful of such east to west coast 2,600 miles each way and never left me stranded.

80 mph!

Yeah they are, given the narrow roads, bends and general traffic it does seem well built for the EU market. The more research I've done into the Deauville 700, seems that the EU were given a lot more nice extras when the motorcycle was initially released. Which is a shame because they're really hard to come by now. At the rate it's going I might consider a large 3D printer if my panniers to go pot.

 

[NewTo700V]

When I had my NT700 I re-inforced that latch area of the lids by filling the "boxes" with JB weld plastic bond. I had an incident on the way to work where a left big lid exploded, but the JB weld filled areas stayed intact. I would recommend as a preventative measure for lid life.

Lid latch epoxy reinforcement is very effective, highside aftermath | Saddlebags

This was a somewhat painful and very expensive experience, but I feel it worth sharing that reinforcing the latches with a 2 part epoxy like JB Weld plastic bond is worth it. This is mainly to recommend applying epoxy to fresh lids that have yet to experience damage to the plastic post area. I...

www.nt-owners.org

 

[BrewMyTea]

When I had my NT700 I re-inforced that latch area of the lids by filling the "boxes" with JB weld plastic bond. I had an incident on the way to work where a left big lid exploded, but the JB weld filled areas stayed intact. I would recommend as a preventative measure for lid life.

Just so I understand, are you suggesting too reenforce the hinges of the door to the pannier or coat the entire inside of the pannier lid in some sort of plastic hardener?

I am happy to do either if it's suggested, looks like your suffered some serious damage and getting any replacements nowadays especially the large lids is nearly impossible.

I'm not sure what the best thing would be on the UK market. Normally it would be Araldite but that doesn't come in significantly large quantities.

Found a link to the Tensol 70 for £40

 

[ARKNT]

Most riders here reinforce the latch area. That is the area with post sticking up from the lid that the metal latch screws into. That is the place most prone to cracking and breaking.

Arknt

 

[NewTo700V]

Just so I understand, are you suggesting too reenforce the hinges of the door to the pannier or coat the entire inside of the pannier lid in some sort of plastic hardener?

I

Not the hinges, just the area around the plastic posts where the lid's metal catches screw into. Those plastic screw posts are typically a failure point. Filling the little "tub" flush and putting a bit on the other side as shown in that thread I linked before. The product I used looks to be available on Amazon UK https://www.amazon.co.uk/JB-Weld-50133-Plastic-Syringe/dp/B009EU5ZNO/

 

[BrewMyTea]

Not the hinges, just the area around the plastic posts where the lid's metal catches screw into. Those plastic screw posts are typically a failure point. Filling the little "tub" flush and putting a bit on the other side as shown in that thread I linked before.

Thank you for this, I'll get some ordered!

 

[NewTo700V]

Yeah I have been look around for some newer shaft drive motorcycles for a while, whilst you can tour with ease on a chain driven motorcycle, the ease and maintenance of shaft is significantly easier. Plus I just like them. I did look at the Moto Guzzis but between the seat height, the styling, weight/balance and the technology. I wasn't a huge fan.

Of course the BMW have their touring range but they're all obscenely big and heavy, I'm not sure how smaller riders like me can enjoy them. I had a look at the R18 and the K1600GTL

I love shaft drive. I just went up 1,115cc over the NT to get the power and leg room I wanted, downside is I also went up ~200lbs in weight but I can handle it. I guess you could say it's Honda's "R18", but since it came out 20 years prior it'd be more accurate to say the R18 is BMW's "VTX". My current ride has a lot in common with my previous NT700V. Doing NT rear tire changes prepped me for working on the cruiser. Rear end hardware arrange is almost identical. Down to rear caliper bracket with a stop bolt and splines needing molypaste. Still using the same 27mm axle wrench I used on the NT for the rear axle nut.

2014 Valkyrie is calling me though. Shaft drive AND single-sided swingarm with lugnuts.

 

[mikesim]

2014 Valkyrie is calling me though. Shaft drive AND single-sided swingarm with lugnuts.

.... when she beckons, you must listen, Grasshopper....

Mike

 

[JQL]

Tha' reet marra...

Things to looks out for, which may or may not have been covered above:

• Pannier latches. The plastic can be repaired by making a mold and using superglue & baking powder or melted cable ties dispensed through a cheap glue gun (DAMHIK)
• Steering head bearings. Mine didn't use to last very long, about 25,000 miles before getting notchy
• The coolant pipe between the cylinders can leak, an easy fix if you have small hands and follow the "tip & tricks"
• Check the alternator cables down behind the gear lever, they can be brittle, caked in crud and the connectors can also be suss up by the Voltage Regulator
• Check the radiator fan comes on and off as stones can get caught in it and/or the thermostat can be toast
• Check the centre stand as it can rust from the inside out and collapse at an inopportune moment. (DAMHIK)
• Swing arm is also susceptible to rust if the weep holes are blocked
• Check the rear shock for leaks (this is just age related). Easy enough to get an aftermarket shock if needs be
• Check normal things like wheel bearings etc.

 

[Coyote Chris]

Why do NT owners keep saying this? That baby V-Twin doesn't have the umph to take advantage of an even taller gear than 5th. I had mine on the Interstate flying into the desert winds. Found myself downshifting to 4th to bring revs up as 5th didn't have it. Can't imagine having asked it for a 6th.

I agree. I would have enjoyed a slightly lower first gear on all my bikes but the Connie was aweful. Everyone was constantly reaching for a 7 gear. The nt, fjr AND VFR are perfect.

Tha' reet marra...

Things to looks out for, which may or may not have been covered above:

• Pannier latches. The plastic can be repaired by making a mold and using superglue & baking powder or melted cable ties dispensed through a cheap glue gun (DAMHIK)
• Steering head bearings. Mine didn't use to last very long, about 25,000 miles before getting notchy
• The coolant pipe between the cylinders can leak, an easy fix if you have small hands and follow the "tip & tricks"
• Check the alternator cables down behind the gear lever, they can be brittle, caked in crud and the connectors can also be suss up by the Voltage Regulator
• Check the radiator fan comes on and off as stones can get caught in it and/or the thermostat can be toast
• Check the centre stand as it can rust from the inside out and collapse at an inopportune moment. (DAMHIK)
• Swing arm is also susceptible to rust if the weep holes are blocked
• Check the rear shock for leaks (this is just age related). Easy enough to get an aftermarket shock if needs be
• Check normal things like wheel bearings etc.

Unencombered by the thought process, I take a small screw stick and pry up the wheel bearing seal, shove in more grease, and tap the seal back. Never has a bad bearing in 60 years.
My pet peave is bikes like the FJR where zerk fittings are not fitted for suspension components. They want you to take apart the entire bike to lube them. When I get to the lower regions, I am going to beat the crap out of the engineer/bean counter who came up with that idea.