Left Side Saddle Bag Latch Broke!

DarylCincy

DarylCincy

Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
219
Age
63
Location
Cincinnati,Ohio
Bike
Honda CBR 600F-2/NT700V
Yeap guess it's finally time to give up the ghost! Today the saddle bags would not open or should I say the left one don't open the right side works fine but that didnt help me get the seat off to look at it so I was able to to stick a rod though the side panel slot and was able to push the release rod to open it. I'm getting ready for my 2,500 mile week trip to Texas and didn't need this but better now then on the trip. Since I really don't have time to do a permanent fix I just attached a bamboo rod too the latch rod via the side slot, don't think it be a problem till I get back? pics.......20200307_175900.jpg20200307_173310.jpg
 
Take same straps, cord or tape with on the trip, in the eventually that the
saddlebag fails completely and you have to close the lid someway, it
happened to me when I was on the road.
 
coaster said:
Take same straps, cord or tape with on the trip, in the eventually that the
saddlebag fails completely and you have to close the lid someway, it
happened to me when I was on the road.
Click to expand...
That's a great ideal, also my luggage liners velcro in place so if they do pop open the liners stay in place. Thank's Roy!
 
The most common failure is that the screw bosses in either the black molded compartment pieces snap off or the screw bosses on the lids themselves.

What you are describing is a new failure mode. Probably caused by the release cable or the cable coming loose from the latch release handle.
 
When you get back from your trip. You might want to investigate replacing the OEM latches with something more accessible and reliable such as external latches.

Here's a link to my thread regarding the subject. Brillot2000 - Improved Pannier Latches

I have never experienced any issues after the installation of these latches. I would recommend the OWACH - CL-307-2L as called in the thread.

I hope you will consider these as a permanent solution to your issue.
 
There are numerous parts to the latch mechanism. If a spring or one of the rods dropped off you could have a lid stuck shut.

I did my best to outline its operation starting here:

Large pannier lid - help - lock bar orientation | Saddlebags

Hi all - my 2012 700 has been at dealer's because large pannier lids occasionally open (while riding) and at times will not close/latch (I have always been careful in closing them). This really sucks. Honda dealer has only seen a couple other NT700's; they have no experience with this...
www.nt-owners.org
 
NewTo700V said:
There are numerous parts to the latch mechanism. If a spring or one of the rods dropped off you could have a lid stuck shut.

I did my best to outline its operation starting here:

Large pannier lid - help - lock bar orientation | Saddlebags

Hi all - my 2012 700 has been at dealer's because large pannier lids occasionally open (while riding) and at times will not close/latch (I have always been careful in closing them). This really sucks. Honda dealer has only seen a couple other NT700's; they have no experience with this...
www.nt-owners.org
Click to expand...

The latch mechanisms are overly complicated for what it is and offer minimal benefits. The cable that releases the mechanisms is a piece of work themselves and then add in the keylock feature.

My recommendation to anyone out there has any issue out there with the latches is go with external latches as soon as possible. The latch mechanisms can stay in place and the removal of the lid catches is required when installing the external latches.
 
Brillot2000 said:
What you are describing is a new failure mode. Probably caused by the release cable or the cable coming loose from the latch release handle.
Click to expand...

That isn’t new Bruce. Mine did that 10 years ago. It was caused by the usual broken plastic bosses which resulted in misalignment and binding. For several years I carried a dowel rod to open the panniers when they balked.

I removed the latches and all tha over designed mechanism and installed external latches that never failed.
 
junglejim said:
That isn’t new Bruce. Mine did that 10 years ago. It was caused by the usual broken plastic bosses which resulted in misalignment and binding. For several years I carried a dowel rod to open the panniers when they balked.

I removed the latches and all tha over designed mechanism and installed external latches that never failed.
Click to expand...
Yes I do believe its a plastic boss behind the thumb lever it don't seem to move the release rod enough, now the way I got that bamboo rod wire tided to that release rod I can move it to open it and close it too. I don't have time to give it any more study and attention till I get back from my trip thanks everybody for commenting I'll study it more when I get back in a couple weeks.
 
Stud DSCN6498.jpg
The pannier is removed from the motorcycle. The photograph is taken from where the seat would be, looking outwards. To the top and right of the frame is the top wall of the luggage area. To the bottom is the inside of the upper outer shell. The main latch mechanism is removed. The pannier lid is in the closed position and the pannier staple protrudes through the hole in the main housing. Above that is the main repair. You can see the M5 stud and the smooth flowing material is a runny epoxy resin. The green plastic is the sheaf of the garden wire. Next time the sheath will be stripped from the wire. The light blue material is Araldite epoxy resin putty. The putty was used after it was discovered that the B&Q epoxy resin is unsuitable for building up structures. It is not bad, just thin.

The plastic stanchions are rebuilt using epoxy resin. The garden wire is tightly bound around the stanchions and further strengthened with the epoxy resin putty.

The manufacturer’s JIS head thread cutting screws will not be used in the repair. The holes in which they were located are drilled out with a 4.5mm bit, stopping 2-3mm from breakout at the bottom of the hole. M5 stud iron or a bolt with the head removed, is cut to a length permitting 10mm to be left exposed. A small amount of resin is dribbled into the hole. Two nuts are locked together on one end of the stud and used to drive the stud into the hole. Remove the nuts.

Put the pannier somewhere warm for two days for the resin to fully cure.
The latch mechanism is tested and fitted. Adjustment is made, either by the removal of material or the addition of washers. Secure with M5 nuts and thread lock.untitled DSCN6503.jpg
 
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