Yea I guess you all are correct. Guess I am thinking of another bike I had and maintained. After all it has been over 6 years since I had a NT and I am also 71years old. Too many bikes and too many years.
My biggest gripe with the NT...
- Thread starter NewTo700V
- Start date
Phil Tarman
Site Supporter
Chuck, I don't think you can have too many bikes and you don't have very many years...but you're gaining! (says the nearly 78 year old guy!)
I got my new issue of "Bike" magazine yesterday and there's an article there about an 82-yr-old South African guy and his 67-yr-old wife who are still riding all over the world...two up. So there's still hope for us.
I've never removed the muffler to access the rear wheel, instead I remove the right saddlebag from the frame. It's relatively easy to do once you've done it a couple times it's straightforward. I don't have a lift so this is easy option for me.
You can remove/install/torque the rear axle nut with a 27mm (or 1-1/16 inch) crowfoot. If you set the crowfoot at a 90 degree angle to your torque wrench you'll clear the muffler Ok and easily get it to 66 ft lbs.
Brad
You can remove/install/torque the rear axle nut with a 27mm (or 1-1/16 inch) crowfoot. If you set the crowfoot at a 90 degree angle to your torque wrench you'll clear the muffler Ok and easily get it to 66 ft lbs.
Brad
That's what I did....crowfoot good.
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2019
- Messages
- 663
- Bike
- 2010 NT700V
I know I've posted this before, but this is my wrench setup for the axle nut. The ratchet with the 14mm hex bit can be inserted into the axle wrench next to the wheel as shown, or flipped around and inserted into the axle wrench from the right. A 6-sided box end will always be a better choice than a crowfoot whenever possible; be it a socket or closed end wrench. Proper torque can be set using a simple extension formula.
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2019
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- 142
- Location
- near Harrow, Ontario Canada
- Bike
- '83 BMW R100RS & 3 XS650s
Every (or nearly every) single machine ever built has at least one service task that is a challenge but nearly all of them have a few tricks which make even those tasks easier. Ranging from a truly complex bike my late (now sold) ST1300 - which virtually never needed any repairs beyond oil changes and tires, to my "agriculturally" simple old Yamaha XS650s, which do require a bit of attention from time to time, all of them have challenging jobs or "known" issues or quirks.
On the ST1300, even a simple task like changing the headlight bulbs was a total PITA which many people thought required removal of the fairing - until you find out that it isn't too bad if you come in from below and if necessary, remove the front wheel. The other big one which is coming up remarkably frequently these days on the aging ST1300, is clutch slave cylinder (CSC) leaks. This repair - according to mother-Honda - requires removal of the engine-transmission assembly (and that can cost upwards of $1800-2000!!!) - unless you know that the CSC can be accessed from below with the bike on the sidestand and then it is a 1-2 hour fix costing less than $100.
On the XS650, it was keeping the charging system alive - until you learn to check the length of the alternator brushes (which takes less than 5 minutes and if they are worn, the brushes are widely available, cheap and easy to replace using only a #2 JIS screwdriver).
Anyway, in my view, the key value of online communities such as NT Owners, ST Owners and XS650.com is the collective knowledge of all the little peculiarities and tips and tricks that come alive on these channels, complete with videos, drawings and sketches and written descriptions.
Thanks one and all!
Pete
On the ST1300, even a simple task like changing the headlight bulbs was a total PITA which many people thought required removal of the fairing - until you find out that it isn't too bad if you come in from below and if necessary, remove the front wheel. The other big one which is coming up remarkably frequently these days on the aging ST1300, is clutch slave cylinder (CSC) leaks. This repair - according to mother-Honda - requires removal of the engine-transmission assembly (and that can cost upwards of $1800-2000!!!) - unless you know that the CSC can be accessed from below with the bike on the sidestand and then it is a 1-2 hour fix costing less than $100.
On the XS650, it was keeping the charging system alive - until you learn to check the length of the alternator brushes (which takes less than 5 minutes and if they are worn, the brushes are widely available, cheap and easy to replace using only a #2 JIS screwdriver).
Anyway, in my view, the key value of online communities such as NT Owners, ST Owners and XS650.com is the collective knowledge of all the little peculiarities and tips and tricks that come alive on these channels, complete with videos, drawings and sketches and written descriptions.
Thanks one and all!
Pete
A word of warning. I have a 2010 NT700 that has had a hard life. The silencer clearly has not been detached in many years, if ever. Between the relief slots, where the silencer clamps onto the forward part of the exhaust system, there are a number of cracks. I suspect that the cause is metal fatigue from bending the exhaust when changing tyres. I filled the cracks with aluminium solder/braze; more to prevent the egress of corrosive exhaust gas than in the expectation of mechanical strength.
The practice of pulling the exhaust to one side may not be the best idea.
The practice of pulling the exhaust to one side may not be the best idea.
That's why I remove the saddlebag. I'd much rather not mess with the exhaust system at all, it just seems like a good way to invite future problems. Give it a try, removing the saddlebag is not in any way difficult.
Brad
Brad
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2019
- Messages
- 663
- Bike
- 2010 NT700V
Why are you pulling the right side to do a tire change? Is it so you can set the caliper easier? I've done plenty of rear tire swaps on the NT at this point and at no time have I observed a reason to remove the luggage or touch the exhaust. Just removal of the rear fender if you don't have a lift with drop away floor is all that should be required.
Yes to easy access to rear caliper, plus I get a good view of the final drive splines and clean them.
I did a post several years ago on how to do this with pictures, can't seem to find it now in archives.
Brad
I did a post several years ago on how to do this with pictures, can't seem to find it now in archives.
Brad