New Bike Gremlins

M2004

Joined
Jul 10, 2024
Messages
7
Location
UK
Hey guys,
Bought a NT700 (2008, 56k miles) last night for £1000, it runs and rides, but needs a lot of work, thought id make an account and ask for help here:
RHS pannier doesnt lock - apparently it just stopped working one day... will want to do preventative maintenance on the LHS pannier too
top box and storage space missing lock barrel (would i be better off buying a new used lock set??)
Fairing issues - hole in plastic housing pannier latching system on rhs, will need to be patched by shop and sprayed, couple cracks and some loose bits need glueing back on
dark area around radiator, wet underside of engine - but no leaks
some pitting above travel length of fork legs, might be leaky? theyre quite soft.....
forks/bars out of alignment
steering lock doesnt work - bars freely move when "locked"
fair bit of corrosion underneath, although it does look like surface rust

Need advice on listed gremlins - also planning to change brake fluid/engine/driveshaft oils/inspect&grease driveshaft/coolant flush?/sand down pads and rotors, theyre a bit rough
Bike rides beautifully - slight whine every now and then however, could barely hear it over the straight pipe.........
Anything else i should look out for/fix on a bike of this age/mileage? thinking of pulling all the fairings and making a shopping basket that way

Also, tips on upgrades? thinking crash bars+aux lights+swap out current heated grips for oxfords+aliepxress Android auto head unit (hard wired into bike) wouldnt be a bad start.....

TYIA
 
Not trying to be funny or critical, but there is also a fine UK forum for these bikes. Anyway, what you purchased is a 1000 pound bike. (meaning cheep) With lots of Gremlins. How much are you willing to put into this thing? If you are doing this for a hobbie, fine...if you are mechanically inclined, you can rebuild everything in your spare time if you have work space. I would just put on an after market pannier latch system. Search this forum. Many have do so.
Make sure the tires arent aged past their due date, and do all the standard maintenance.
You have straight pipes???? they allow that? Not especially a good idea....
Lots of info here on this forum and you have lots of digging to do.
 
M2004 said:
... needs a lot of work ...
Click to expand...
Considering your location I'd assume most of the culprits "climate related"... (plus lack of TLC...)
Observing the same on the ST1100 groups since decades... UK rigs always look like they've been on the bottom of the ocean for a long time...
Second the remark on straight pipes... besides spreading (useless) terror in the neighborhood is the lack/absence of back pressure an issue...
Besides roaming eBay I suggest

David Silver Spares

David Silver Spares UK specialise in Honda motorcycle parts and accessories from the 1960s to 2008 models. Online Honda Part number search, Worldwide delivery
www.davidsilverspares.co.uk
and

Honda Motorcycle Parts, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha Motorcycle Parts - ATV, Classic Bike, Dirt Bike Parts

CMSNL specializes in Honda Motorcycle Parts, Kawasaki Motorcycle Parts, Yamaha and Suzuki OEM and Aftermarket Motorcycle Parts for Classic Bikes, Dirt Bikes, ATV's, Snowmobiles and more
www.cmsnl.com www.cmsnl.com
as part sources
A genuine Honda workshop manual will also pay off soon due the valuable info...
 
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It sounds like it's a "stolen recovered" if the steering lock doesn't work and the handlebars are out of alignment. Check with the DVLA for stolen recovered.

Before anything else, give her a full 24,000 (36,000 km) mile service as per the Honda Workshop manual. At that point you can decide whether to continue with the repairs or not. Check the non-consumables first.

A few general things:
Read Rob's Pages: https://robdavistelford.co.uk/webspace/deauville/
Get the Honda Workshop Manual, it is more detailed in places than the Haynes. Though, the Haynes would be useful as well. I have a PDF copy of the NT700V manual if you want it.
Brush up, if necessary, on your mechanical skills. If needs be, take a course or watch YouTube (though there are some unhelpful channels).
Learn or refresh your knowledge on how to repair types of plastic with "plastic welding" and the like including painting.
It's possible that the UK Insurance companies will load your premium for the broken steering lock.
New Topbox locks are relatively cheap from Givi and the like.
New bike locks require a new ECU matched to the locks. Not Cheap!!!!
The straight pipes are, probably, an MOT fail.

Items that need to be checked:
Normal service items (filter, oils, cables, brake pads, wheel bearings etc.)
Fork seals, bushes and springs
Rear suspension unit and swing arm including the bearings
Coolant hoses, water pump, Thermostat, o-rings, fan etc.

My guess, if you can get some of the parts 2nd hand (ebay, donor bike etc.), you're looking at £2,000 - 3,000 to bring her back to spec if you do it yourself.
 
Coyote Chris said:
Not trying to be funny or critical, but there is also a fine UK forum for these bikes. Anyway, what you purchased is a 1000 pound bike. (meaning cheep) With lots of Gremlins. How much are you willing to put into this thing? If you are doing this for a hobbie, fine...if you are mechanically inclined, you can rebuild everything in your spare time if you have work space. I would just put on an after market pannier latch system. Search this forum. Many have do so.
Make sure the tires arent aged past their due date, and do all the standard maintenance.
You have straight pipes???? they allow that? Not especially a good idea....
Lots of info here on this forum and you have lots of digging to do.
Click to expand...
i did post on there last night too, have gotten 0 replies there... lol
i dont mind putting a few hundred in over a few months to bring it up to scratch, if i buy some proprietary tools could do all the work at home
aftermarket latches, will look into them
tyres are a year old, set of bridgestones
 
JQL said:
It sounds like it's a "stolen recovered" if the steering lock doesn't work and the handlebars are out of alignment. Check with the DVLA for stolen recovered.

Before anything else, give her a full 24,000 (36,000 km) mile service as per the Honda Workshop manual. At that point you can decide whether to continue with the repairs or not. Check the non-consumables first.

A few general things:
Read Rob's Pages: https://robdavistelford.co.uk/webspace/deauville/
Get the Honda Workshop Manual, it is more detailed in places than the Haynes. Though, the Haynes would be useful as well. I have a PDF copy of the NT700V manual if you want it.
Brush up, if necessary, on your mechanical skills. If needs be, take a course or watch YouTube (though there are some unhelpful channels).
Learn or refresh your knowledge on how to repair types of plastic with "plastic welding" and the like including painting.
It's possible that the UK Insurance companies will load your premium for the broken steering lock.
New Topbox locks are relatively cheap from Givi and the like.
New bike locks require a new ECU matched to the locks. Not Cheap!!!!
The straight pipes are, probably, an MOT fail.

Items that need to be checked:
Normal service items (filter, oils, cables, brake pads, wheel bearings etc.)
Fork seals, bushes and springs
Rear suspension unit and swing arm including the bearings
Coolant hoses, water pump, Thermostat, o-rings, fan etc.

My guess, if you can get some of the parts 2nd hand (ebay, donor bike etc.), you're looking at £2,000 - 3,000 to bring her back to spec if you do it yourself.
Click to expand...
that could be the issue here.... how do i contact the dvla for that? and is the steering lock fixable? or is it the frame end that breaks/needs welding?
i have the manual, but its in several different parts - if you have the whole thing in one doc ill happily take it
for plastics i was thinking of taking it to a shop and letting them deal with it - im not equipped in any sense to deal with that sorta stuff...
the exhaust is an aftermarket pipe sans the muffler - seller did give me the factory pipe with it (although im wanting to keep it as is till i get fed up of it, mot shouldnt be an issue.....)
didnt get the bit about the locks - i did find a lock and key set online for about £100 - would that work?
 
M2004 said:
that could be the issue here.... how do i contact the dvla for that? and is the steering lock fixable? or is it the frame end that breaks/needs welding?
i have the manual, but its in several different parts - if you have the whole thing in one doc ill happily take it
for plastics i was thinking of taking it to a shop and letting them deal with it - im not equipped in any sense to deal with that sorta stuff...
the exhaust is an aftermarket pipe sans the muffler - seller did give me the factory pipe with it (although im wanting to keep it as is till i get fed up of it, mot shouldnt be an issue.....)
didnt get the bit about the locks - i did find a lock and key set online for about £100 - would that work?
Click to expand...

DVLA: https://www.gov.uk/government/organisations/driver-and-vehicle-licensing-agency Also try an online vehicle check database (Google is your friend)
Probably need welding
Mine's in various parts as well
Shop is a good idea but could be costly. Plastic welding kit on amazon: https://amzn.to/4cF9idW is very useful for when you drop the bike. As is Bicarbonate of Soda and superglue
I'd put the OEM pipe back on as a straight pipe will annoy the neighbours and other road users. Bikers are hated enough as it is...
Does the set of locks come with the ECU? If not, the immobiliser (ECU) isn't matched to the key so the bike won't start...

Oh and I saw you question on the other site, but I'd already answered it here...
 
Last edited:
Came back not stolen....
Plan is to remove all the fairings and inspect everything - if its too much for me i can sell it and get a cleaner one, albeit for a bit more... otherwise start ordering parts and start doing it up
List right now is:
Replace locks (still on the fence about having multiple keys, might just buy a lock for the top box and replace all the other ones under 1 key) - are there any cheaper variants of the fairing pocket lock? im seeing them for £30-40 - with the cost and faff of the second key etc i may as well just replace all of them.... If i buy the set (which i dont think has an ECU), can i reprogram the keys (since they came off a donor bike), or do i need to buy fresh blanks, program to my ecu, and cut to new lock barrels?
look at the brakes, theyre a bit rough
fork service - theyre a bit pitted but looks ok
Headlight needs adjusting
for the fairings ill just use filler, superglue and a rattle can - anything more than that wont be cost effective i dont think (i do have a plastic welder, how does soda work with superglue???
sort RHS latch and somehow reinforce both sides (havent looked into it yet)
the rest ill have to see when everythings off...

then list for 2k and ride till it sells......
then buy an actually clean one lol
 
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JQL said:
Does the set of locks come with the ECU? If not, the immobiliser (ECU) isn't matched to the key so the bike won't start....
Click to expand...
Lock and ring-antenna are separate items, but there RFID blobs hidden in the key handles, which you'll have to swap.
 
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as for the "wet look". I have had 2 NT's, radiator leaks on BACK side, have replaced 3 times. 2 times on this current bike and once on previous bike. You'll get just a dribble, then progressively more and more, somewhere on the welded seams. Seems like they have had a production problem manufacturing good units. Mine leaked without any accidents. I don't like to try any leak stop on a motorcycle engine, might gum up things, so ordered new ones
 
ST1100Y said:
Lock and ring-antenna are separate items, but there RFID blobs hidden in the key handles, which you'll have to swap.
Click to expand...
so just buy key set, and swap over the old blob to the new key, and program one for the second key (since i currently only have the one key)?
 
JQL said:
It sounds like it's a "stolen recovered" if the steering lock doesn't work and the handlebars are out of alignment. Check with the DVLA for stolen recovered.

Before anything else, give her a full 24,000 (36,000 km) mile service as per the Honda Workshop manual. At that point you can decide whether to continue with the repairs or not. Check the non-consumables first.

A few general things:
Read Rob's Pages: https://robdavistelford.co.uk/webspace/deauville/
Get the Honda Workshop Manual, it is more detailed in places than the Haynes. Though, the Haynes would be useful as well. I have a PDF copy of the NT700V manual if you want it.
Brush up, if necessary, on your mechanical skills. If needs be, take a course or watch YouTube (though there are some unhelpful channels).
Learn or refresh your knowledge on how to repair types of plastic with "plastic welding" and the like including painting.
It's possible that the UK Insurance companies will load your premium for the broken steering lock.
New Topbox locks are relatively cheap from Givi and the like.
New bike locks require a new ECU matched to the locks. Not Cheap!!!!
The straight pipes are, probably, an MOT fail.

Items that need to be checked:
Normal service items (filter, oils, cables, brake pads, wheel bearings etc.)
Fork seals, bushes and springs
Rear suspension unit and swing arm including the bearings
Coolant hoses, water pump, Thermostat, o-rings, fan etc.

My guess, if you can get some of the parts 2nd hand (ebay, donor bike etc.), you're looking at £2,000 - 3,000 to bring her back to spec if you do it yourself.
Click to expand...
Update: started pulling the bike apart yesterday for the 24k mile service - the bike is in surprisingly good nick - my shopping list consists mostly of fluids and filters, and fork rebuild bits (can I service the rear shock myself/how do I know if it needs servicing? I'm not spending £300 on a new shock, thank you very much)
To do list so far:
Locks/keys
Pannier latches
Fix plastics
Fork (and shock?) rebuild (check steering lock while it's off)
Flush all fluids, new oil filter (do I need to change the fuel filter? Air one is new), bring bike up to scratch on the workshop service list

The headlight adjustment screws don't seem to be doing much, any tips on that?
Also, the nut/bolt/fastener bit of the service - do I actually need to check Every. Single. Bolt.? That'll take me hours, especially since I'm quite unfamiliar with it


Once all this is sorted I can start looking at mods - any suggestions, or should I make a new post for that?

Tyia
 

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The OEM rear suspension isn't serviceable. If it is leaking, it needs to be replaced. You can check the bushes for wear and replace those.
 
JQL said:
The OEM rear suspension isn't serviceable. If it is leaking, it needs to be replaced. You can check the bushes for wear and replace those.
Click to expand...
To a degree...
I topped up the ATF in the preload adjuster on my GF's NT700VA... had no resistance on the first +20 clicks, now it engages after 2~3 clicks, hence it actually does something again...
Top bush is a steel tube, bottom a needle bearing sealed by two V-rings; I'd suggest cleaning and replenish lubrication with marine grease...
 
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