I need a dope slap.
Our 20-30 year old clothes dryer had its second problem since we have owned it. Very roughly 10 years ago, the Hi temp theromostat burned its contacts. Normally, this is just a safety feature and the normal working thermostat open and closes...maybe twice every 6 minutes. The high temp one stays closed. The symptom is you get no heat. Well, it burned up again today so I took a spare new one I had and put it in. I put a leaf blower into the vent hose and cleaned out a bit of lint, re attached the hose and put a volt meter across the high temp thermostat and the operational thermostat and sat down and watched the meters, infrared heat sensor in hand and watched the beast dry 4 t shirts. The operational thermostat openned and closed about twice in six minutes. The heater housing got as hot as 158 degrees but the air going out the hose only got to 135 degrees which is what the operational thermostat is set at (with a screw stick). In short, it worked perfectly.
One caviat. This dryer has a thermal cutoff non resetable "switch" at the top of the dryer heater housing. At 325 degrees, it will open up. This is usually caused by the machine being run with an obstructed hose or a clogged lint filter. I wired it out of the circuit 10 years ago when it failed but now I learned from a long dead mechanic you can actually reset them by wapping them against a flat surface. They are a warped disc which you can unwarp by doing this. The new one I put in 10 years ago but wired around had popped so I reset it and put it back in service.
What I like about this Kenmore is it is dirt simple. No microproccessors...no temp control......
So do I go out and pay $550 for a new basic dryer (cheep) hopefully without a computer? The only down side to not doing this is this one could fail its motor, belt, motor/heater switch, timer, etc in a week or a year and then I have to go out and buy a new one at possibly inflated prices.
My head and gut are telling me to just go out and buy one for $550. My heart says hey, this one is actually fixable as far as the heater circuit goes and there are youtube vids as to how to do it.


Our 20-30 year old clothes dryer had its second problem since we have owned it. Very roughly 10 years ago, the Hi temp theromostat burned its contacts. Normally, this is just a safety feature and the normal working thermostat open and closes...maybe twice every 6 minutes. The high temp one stays closed. The symptom is you get no heat. Well, it burned up again today so I took a spare new one I had and put it in. I put a leaf blower into the vent hose and cleaned out a bit of lint, re attached the hose and put a volt meter across the high temp thermostat and the operational thermostat and sat down and watched the meters, infrared heat sensor in hand and watched the beast dry 4 t shirts. The operational thermostat openned and closed about twice in six minutes. The heater housing got as hot as 158 degrees but the air going out the hose only got to 135 degrees which is what the operational thermostat is set at (with a screw stick). In short, it worked perfectly.
One caviat. This dryer has a thermal cutoff non resetable "switch" at the top of the dryer heater housing. At 325 degrees, it will open up. This is usually caused by the machine being run with an obstructed hose or a clogged lint filter. I wired it out of the circuit 10 years ago when it failed but now I learned from a long dead mechanic you can actually reset them by wapping them against a flat surface. They are a warped disc which you can unwarp by doing this. The new one I put in 10 years ago but wired around had popped so I reset it and put it back in service.
What I like about this Kenmore is it is dirt simple. No microproccessors...no temp control......
So do I go out and pay $550 for a new basic dryer (cheep) hopefully without a computer? The only down side to not doing this is this one could fail its motor, belt, motor/heater switch, timer, etc in a week or a year and then I have to go out and buy a new one at possibly inflated prices.
My head and gut are telling me to just go out and buy one for $550. My heart says hey, this one is actually fixable as far as the heater circuit goes and there are youtube vids as to how to do it.


) 
