Ged
Guest
Over the last 2 months when starting my bike it cranked over slowly but managed to start. It became noticeably worse when the weather got colder and struggled when starting from warm sometimes. I explored the starting system cleaning all the terminals and the battery was reading over 13 volts. In the end the bike would turn over cranking slow discharging the battery but not starting. I used a car battery to jump start the bike and the starter cranked over slowly for longer and then seized up with the starter solenoid just clicking.
I decided to purchase a second hand starter motor that looked in excellent condition, and came with the power lead. I wired this to the solenoid and earthed the motor and it ran fine, with the pinion easy to turn.
Having read an article on your forum about starter motor removal with a link attached to you tube that has an added comment about the need to remove the exhaust system.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MgbfKSpsUg
I decided to remove the starter motor and check that it had seized prior to this I removed the plastics to raise the fuel tank and have access to the aperture on the nearside where the motor would be removed from. I disconnected the relevant plugs after removing the water pump cover, and unclipped the wiring loosening the coil pack and earthling point. I removed the motor from its mounting and tilted it up and tried to turn the pinon gear that was seized solid. The motor would not come up to turn to align with the access aperture as it fouled the rear nearside manifold mounting bolt/stud. Having read the comments on the you tube I decided to remove the rear muffler as it had a broken fastener on the heatshield. I then removed the manifold rear nearside bolt that I expected to be a stud. When I removed the bolt the downpipe tilted to the offside slightly. I aligned the motor to face the exit aperture and attached a pair of mole grips to the pinion, after twisting the motor around it did come out after a struggle. When the motor was removed I noticed it would turn with force but made a grinding noise.
Refitting went well I applied some spray lube to the replacement motor body, this aided its entry through the access aperture and took me a bit of time aligning the motor back into its housing. I connected everything back up and lowered the tank fitted the battery and she burst into life first press.
I was well pleased with the result.:smile::smile:
Several days later I decided to dismantle the failed starter motor, finding that at least one of the case magnets had completely disintegrated with many of the others loose, looks like the adhesive failed or was not applied correctly. The armature had managed to grind these to dust.
I also noted the brush lengths measured 10.5 mm with the bike just turning 30k. I hope this is useful to other members as although I do believe starter motor failure is rare.
I decided to purchase a second hand starter motor that looked in excellent condition, and came with the power lead. I wired this to the solenoid and earthed the motor and it ran fine, with the pinion easy to turn.
Having read an article on your forum about starter motor removal with a link attached to you tube that has an added comment about the need to remove the exhaust system.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MgbfKSpsUg
I decided to remove the starter motor and check that it had seized prior to this I removed the plastics to raise the fuel tank and have access to the aperture on the nearside where the motor would be removed from. I disconnected the relevant plugs after removing the water pump cover, and unclipped the wiring loosening the coil pack and earthling point. I removed the motor from its mounting and tilted it up and tried to turn the pinon gear that was seized solid. The motor would not come up to turn to align with the access aperture as it fouled the rear nearside manifold mounting bolt/stud. Having read the comments on the you tube I decided to remove the rear muffler as it had a broken fastener on the heatshield. I then removed the manifold rear nearside bolt that I expected to be a stud. When I removed the bolt the downpipe tilted to the offside slightly. I aligned the motor to face the exit aperture and attached a pair of mole grips to the pinion, after twisting the motor around it did come out after a struggle. When the motor was removed I noticed it would turn with force but made a grinding noise.
Refitting went well I applied some spray lube to the replacement motor body, this aided its entry through the access aperture and took me a bit of time aligning the motor back into its housing. I connected everything back up and lowered the tank fitted the battery and she burst into life first press.
I was well pleased with the result.:smile::smile:
Several days later I decided to dismantle the failed starter motor, finding that at least one of the case magnets had completely disintegrated with many of the others loose, looks like the adhesive failed or was not applied correctly. The armature had managed to grind these to dust.
I also noted the brush lengths measured 10.5 mm with the bike just turning 30k. I hope this is useful to other members as although I do believe starter motor failure is rare.
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