NT700V Motor issue

[RUSTINPEACE]

So I just had this issue start about a week ago when i'm accelerating at above 6,500 rpms the engine just starts hesitating and it just starts to feel like it's lost half the horsepower. My only guess is that my fuel pump could be going bad but I think that's unlikely since my bike is still under warranty and it only has 130,000+ miles on it. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what would cause that?
P.S. my air filter is fairly new.

 

[seagrass]

Fuel, air, or spark will be the problem (spark includes all the electronics too of course)

As you have said the air cleaner is fairly new that rules that one out so I would suspect spark plugs or spark plug caps next as these are the next easiest to do something with.

Seagrass

 

[mikesim]

Check engine light? Does it feel like it is misfiring, or does it just bog down?

Mike

 

[DirtFlier]

Use the procedure to see if there is an error code stored in the bike's computer.

 

[Phil Tarman]

Sounds like what I experienced at about 15,000 miles. Dealer replaced the regulator/rectifier and spark plug caps. It's never happened again. I did have a check engine light showing -- seems like it showed low voltage at the throttle position indicator.

 

[dnktng]

Has your Crank Position Sensor failure from earlier this year been resolved?

There is a fail safe function for that will cut back the engine and limit it to some pre-programmed rpm when some of the engine sensors fail. I think my NT was limited to ~4500 rpm when it was acting up with MAP sensor failures. Read the codes stored in the ECM as a starting point.

Loose or cracked vacuum hoses, poorly fitted throttle bodies, or anything else the could cause vacuum leaks can cause an engine to intermittently run poorly also.

 

[RUSTINPEACE]

Thank's for the suggestions! Here's a video I took if you listen to it the bike stutters at about 6,500 rpm.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jxe_t343VQ

I'm thinking it might be the fuel filter because I don't think I've ever had the fuel filter changed. Because I have always just had the Honda Maintenance listed in the owners Manuel done on my bike.

P.S. I've been to busy working and riding to get the Crank Case Position Sensor fixed. So that could also be part of the problem.

 

[Macka]

Looking at the video, it is MOST unlikely to be the fuel pump or strainer as the higher the revs go the worse it would behave.
Having had Crank Position Sensor problems myself I do not believe that the CPS is your problem. They will almost always fail when hot preventing engine running until cool again.
The symptom you seem to be having is most likely to be caused by spark plugs or caps.

 

[seagrass]

I find myself agreeing with Macka. It appears to be breaking down electrically and I am also thinking plugs or plug caps, at least that is where I would look first and after that I would replace the fuel filter if the problem persists.

Seagrass

 

[RUSTINPEACE]

Are spark plug caps the same thing as spark plug wires or is that something completely different?

 

[dnktng]

Are spark plug caps the same thing as spark plug wires or is that something completely different?

Different.
Below is the Service Bulletin to replace the Spark Plug Caps on all 2010 NT700V's. The cap part numbers are on the last page.

The 3 page Service Bulletin that replaces the spark plug caps.

 

[RUSTINPEACE]

Thanks for the info unfortunately my NT700V is a 2011 not a 2010.

 

[seagrass]

Regardless of whether you have a 2010 or 2011 the problem could still be the spark plug caps or maybe spark plugs, especially with the mileage you have travelled.

Seagrass

 

[Phil Tarman]

Spark plug caps fit over the top of the plugs and the plug wires go into the other end of the caps. They perform some esoteric electrical function that is beyond my understanding but, nevertheless, apparently a vital function without which reliable combustion cannot happen.

 

[Macka]

Spark plug caps fit over the top of the plugs and the plug wires go into the other end of the caps. They perform some esoteric electrical function that is beyond my understanding but, nevertheless, apparently a vital function without which reliable combustion cannot happen.

They are there for two reasons mainly. Firstly to provide a secure water-tight connection to the plug and secondly, they have inbuilt suppressors to eliminate electrical interference with surrounding electronics (TV/Radio/Computers etc).
They just screw onto the end of the plug lead. If you look into the top end you will see the screw! Just screw them in until firm and the cap cannot move freely on the lead.
I used the NGK after-market ones on mine. The angle is slighly different and makes it a little more awkward than the Honda ones but they are about 1/4 of the price.

Macka

 

[mikesim]

If your gonna guess, the spark plug caps are a cheap guess, but I doubt they will fix your problem.

Mike

 

[EX Winger]

spark plug caps are attatched to the end of wire leading to spark plug and then they attatch to spark plug sometimes hard rubbr , sometimes plastic type material. either way any time you remove them BE CAREFUL to not just pull them with brute strength, that will cause them to separate tear loose from the spark plug wire. There sre tools specialy designed to get ahold of the cap portion of the wire so it can be twisted to remove it from the spark plug. a wire that has beei in place for a long time will adhier to the plug via the cap. I don't remember just what the configuration of the caps on the NT is. but if it is one with a rubber type boot going over the top of the plug it is a good candidate for using the tool which is similar to a pair of pliers but is made to grip the rubber vap . That type tool can be had from your local autoparts / tool store.

Eldon

 

[tawilke46]

AND, at least I have done so, you can break the ceramic end off the spark plug if you do not pull on the cap correctly.......
BTDT......
Moral of the story: if the cap is really stubborn, buy and use the right tool.

 

[EX Winger]

AND, at least I have done so, you can break the ceramic end off the spark plug if you do not pull on the cap correctly.......
BTDT......
Moral of the story: if the cap is really stubborn, buy and use the right tool.

Very well said Tim, I agree!!

Eldon

 

[RUSTINPEACE]

Thanks for the suggestions folks! But I think i'm just going to keep on riding because the bike runs fine below 6,000 rpm and I really like to ride a lot and my warranty doesn't expire until March 31, 2017.