NCpkwyrider1
Guest
Are some of you changing your engine oil at some interval between 600 and 4000 miles? 3400 miles seems like a lot of mileage between oil changes. Thanks.
CoolNT
Guest
Honda recommends 8K which is too long on dino oil. I think most of us plan a 4k OCI and a few even sooner based on past inputs.
Phil Tarman
Site Supporter
I am convinced that sythetics will let liquid cooled engines go 8-10,00 miles without needing an oil change.
At 105,000 my 1st Concours had had 10,000 mile OCIs since about 24,000 miles and the engine looked as good 10,000 miles before I wadded the bike up as it had the first time I'd had the valve covers off. Never used a drop of oil. Leaked a little around the oil pressure sensing unit, the balance shaft adjustment rod, and the water pump seal. 4,000 mile oil changes wouldn't have stopped that.
At 105,000 my 1st Concours had had 10,000 mile OCIs since about 24,000 miles and the engine looked as good 10,000 miles before I wadded the bike up as it had the first time I'd had the valve covers off. Never used a drop of oil. Leaked a little around the oil pressure sensing unit, the balance shaft adjustment rod, and the water pump seal. 4,000 mile oil changes wouldn't have stopped that.
I changed mine at 600, then again at 3000. I'm rolling up on 6000 (74 away) and I'll be changing it again. I don't like the 4000 mile intervals mother Honda recommends because my daddy raised me to change it every 3000.
Phil, at what mileage do you recommend switching over to synthetic? I've heard around 10,000 or so but I don't know how accurate that is. I used synthetic in my last bike after 10,000.
Phil, at what mileage do you recommend switching over to synthetic? I've heard around 10,000 or so but I don't know how accurate that is. I used synthetic in my last bike after 10,000.
Igo
Guest
I knew I wasn't going to make it to the dealer at exactly 600 miles so I changed my oil at 450 to the oil I intended to use for the duration. At 900 miles I made it to the dealer for the 600. I'm not real scared of 4000. There are only two cylinders in there. Not 4 or 6 or 8. Yet, I've never gone 4000 on a motorcycle without changing the oil.
There is some argument against synthetic because most bikes use a wet clutch. I used dino on my last bike for 65,000 with zero noticeable engine wear but I sure love the idea of synthetic. If I go synthetic it would be until the engine is properly run in. I'd say 10,000.
There is some argument against synthetic because most bikes use a wet clutch. I used dino on my last bike for 65,000 with zero noticeable engine wear but I sure love the idea of synthetic. If I go synthetic it would be until the engine is properly run in. I'd say 10,000.
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At 4k miles I will be changing to a synthetic motorcycle oil. A bit expensive but that is the cost of Piece of Mind. I use Mobol 1 Racing 4T 10-40w in my ST and I started with Castrol Power racing 4T 10-40w in my Wee. I will most likley use the Casteroil in the NT as it is just as good and a 1.00 per quart cheaper. Both are bought at the auto parts Store. Advanced Auto Parts. 10 bucks and 9 bucks respectivly. It is about 14 bucks a qt at the Honda Shop. Both oils are motorcycle oils. Becouse of the price, I do my own oil changes.
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Igo
Guest
Yes. The cost of oil and filter (10w-40 dino) at the dealer was $56.
Do you buy filters at the dealer?
Do you buy filters at the dealer?
Igo
Guest
No, I use the Wallmart filter ST6607. about 4 bucks. It has had some good write ups and it is also the same filter that my STuses. 50000 mile + No issues. Remeber Dealers are called Stealers for a reason.
I understand.
Our bikes are all fuel injected and they don't dump nearly as much fuel in to the oil as carbs would on cold start. Has anyone sent a sample off to be tested at an actual lab or is this all faith based. I would like to take care of my machine but still fell a need to conserve a finite resource even if I can afford to squander it.
I believed that short change intervals where cheap insurance for years. The application of scientific principals to any discipline is referred to as engineering. That is where my bets get parked. 99 % of synthetic oil is modified mineral oil. Designer molecules created from oil. what goes bad on conventional oil is the additives get worn out. The flow modifiers that make up the multigrade ratings are some of the first to go. The color will not tell you if it is worn out or not. Most of the failed oil problems that a visible to the naked eye are what you drain from a failed engine.
I fully expect to be told what an idiot I am now (slowly and at high volume)
I believed that short change intervals where cheap insurance for years. The application of scientific principals to any discipline is referred to as engineering. That is where my bets get parked. 99 % of synthetic oil is modified mineral oil. Designer molecules created from oil. what goes bad on conventional oil is the additives get worn out. The flow modifiers that make up the multigrade ratings are some of the first to go. The color will not tell you if it is worn out or not. Most of the failed oil problems that a visible to the naked eye are what you drain from a failed engine.
I fully expect to be told what an idiot I am now (slowly and at high volume)
Raycad
Guest
Karl, I fully agree with you, except maybe I think there's not so much difference between carbs and fuel injection. As far back as I can remember, I've changed oil at 600 miles and then every 8 000 miles. Oil filter: Fram bought at Walmart, $6.00. Oil: Walmart's Super Tech 10W-40, $2.50/qt. Never had the slightest problem, never had to add any oil between changes even after 190 000 miles on an ST1100 (with carbs).
Ray
Ray
Ray, if you run your machine long enough to get up to operating temp for a while you flash off all the fuel in the oil. Short tripping will leave fuel in the oil.
I was changing my oil too often, am trying to reform. no it won't hurt the bike but we are wasting barrels of oil for no reliability gains...
I was changing my oil too often, am trying to reform. no it won't hurt the bike but we are wasting barrels of oil for no reliability gains...
Phil Tarman
Site Supporter
I'm honored to be considered an expert, but it's entirely unwarranted. On my only other new bike, Connie #1, I made the switch to synthetic at 12,000 miles (we had a 6,000 mile service interval). I don't think synthetic's been in the NT yet, but it will be by the next oil change at 24,000 miles.
There are all kinds of synthetics. My advice (based on advice I've gotten from others who may or may not be more expert than I am) is to avoid the synthetics that have "Energy-Conserving" in a little circle anywhere on the container. They are much lower in the metals like Zinc that protect a clutch. Rotella-T synthetic is a truck oil that meets the specs for what motorcycles need to have in their lubricant. Mobil One 4-Stroke and Amsoil are undoubtedly great, but they're also expensive as all-get-out and I seriously doubt that they're worth it. If Honda makes a synthetic, it's probably as expensive as they are. Mobil One 10-50 worked for a long time in Connie #1; Mobil One 10-50 and Rotella T worked for a long time in Connie #2. I never had engine wear or clutch problems.
lcseds
Guest
I frequent many MC forums and Rotella T seems the hands on favorite for economy.
Raycad
Guest
Karl, I never ride my bike to run errands. When I start the engine, it's early in the morning, either for a day ride or a multi-day trip. And I never leave the bike idling for a warm-up. I think it's detrimental to the engine; I start the engine and go. I think it's better for the engine to be warming up with light loads, no revving up.
Ray
Ray lots of people do it otherwise, your bike will probably be around and running well for some time yet.
I just picked up a case of Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 for the NV700. I used Mobil 1 Twin Synthetic 20-50 in my VStar.
As I have read this thread, it appears most of you seem to recommend switching to synthetic as late as 8000 to 12000 miles. On the VStar I did the switch at about 1100 miles.
What is bad about switching to synthetic at first service, at 600 miles? If your argument makes sense, I would be happy to put dino oil at 600 miles and wait with the synthetic switch.
freezingalaskan
As I have read this thread, it appears most of you seem to recommend switching to synthetic as late as 8000 to 12000 miles. On the VStar I did the switch at about 1100 miles.
What is bad about switching to synthetic at first service, at 600 miles? If your argument makes sense, I would be happy to put dino oil at 600 miles and wait with the synthetic switch.
freezingalaskan
The thought is that the engine needs time to break and wear in properly. Switching to synthetics too soon will inhibit this process. YMMV
freezingalaskan, the theory is that parts do not fettel themselves as well as they would with a conventional oil. Then the OEM,s that recommend the stuff have it in the sump from new.