Pannier idea

Those first hand-held digital calculators were nearly $300 when they were introduced in the 70s. Now you can buy one with more calculating power for under $10! :)

I remember those quite well. In 1972 I retired my slip stick and bought a basic APF four function, plus a % key, calculator to use in electronics engineering school. As a lowly E-2 it cost me a months pay for that calculator. :oops: I have since seen better calculators used as a give away in a cereal box.🙄 I retired it in 1975 when as a rich E-4 I bought my first TI programmable calculator for about two months pay...at PX prices.

Now I just use a free app on my Google Pixel 6....
 
I was a student in a work/study program with General Motors (Central Foundry Div) 1966- 1971. We were assigned to various parts of the foundry during our plant periods. I had many hours behind those mechanical calculators. Banging on a stop key when you made a division/ per cent calc error to prevent it from grinding on and having to fix the jam.

While passing through the front offices, the purchasing head motioned me into his office. He had a 110v calculator. He was very excited. It could divide and multiply as well as add, subtract. He said these were going to save us lots of time and he ordered an initial dozen for only $120 each. I asked if I could have that one. He said NO.

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DIV STOP key - Sometimes it did, sometimes not. Good times!
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Did you ever look inside one of those mechanical beasties? It looked more like a watchmaker's nightmare vs a calculator as we now know them. According to my Dad, they were horrendously expensive to fix if they broke.

Mike
 
Why are you filling up the NT with 93 octane?

NT going slow around back roads I've seen 60 mpg (calculated). Traveling actual Interstate speeds that will drop to 40mpg or a bit less, depending on head winds.
 
NT going slow around back roads I've seen 60 mpg (calculated). Traveling actual Interstate speeds that will drop to 40mpg or a bit less, depending on head winds.
I rarely get less than 60 MPG using regular. I generally do NOT ride on Interstates, however. 99% of my riding is on secondary, thirdly, and if I am lucky, fourthly roads.

On a recent cross country trip (California to Virginia), over 4400 miles, the average was 68 MPG.
 
I've done a few cross country rides on the NT. My westbound MPGs are nowhere near that. :D Get on I-40 into NM heading west with the throttle pegged trying to maintain 90 mph into headwinds, I promise you the NT gets quite thirsty.
 
so i came here looking for info on latches as per above and all i read is people crapping on about calculators and fuel, seriously wtf
Lots of good information available on this site about what latches to use, where to buy them and how to install them.

Seagrass
 
Non alcohol fuel does increase the mpg, I especially want it during times the bike is in temporary storage.
 
Hey All, Sorry it has taken me so long to post theses photos. I injured my arm (not motorcycling) and it has put a damper on my summer. Anyway, attached are two photos showing my pannier idea to increase the capacity and ease-of-use (in my opinion) at the campsite. I got the 2-inch-wide nylon webbing and buckles from Amazon, and used JP Weld Plastic Bonder to glue the webbing to the plastic cavity, but it does not bond very well. I did put a small screw through the webbing and will probably add a washer to it. I also plan to purchase two 40 liter top-loading, and fold-down, drybags which will be about 12 inches wide and tall, and 20 inches long. This should make being able to LOOSLY fill the bags with food, water, cooking equipment, clothing, etc and load the bags onto the bike much easier. I'll still use an Army duffle bag with a large plastic bag inside of it to carry lighter and bulkier things like a sleeping bag, sleeping mat, and camp sneakers attached over the back seat and rack and snugged down securely with a ratchet strap; the duffle bag also works as a cushion for my lower back. WIN_20220812_07_35_12_Pro.jpgWIN_20220812_07_35_21_Pro.jpg
 
I also plan to purchase two 40 liter top-loading, and fold-down, drybags which will be about 12 inches wide and tall, and 20 inches long. This should make being able to LOOSLY fill the bags with food, water, cooking equipment, clothing, etc and load the bags onto the bike much easier. I'll still use an Army duffle bag with a large plastic bag inside of it to carry lighter and bulkier things like a sleeping bag, sleeping mat, and camp sneakers attached over the back seat and rack and snugged down securely with a ratchet strap; the duffle bag also works as a cushion for my lower back.
Hi John,
I do a LOT of camping with my NT, and have added two tie down eyebolts to the rear shelf. This really helps. I use RocStraps and put RocStrap's short elastic part into the eyebolt and the long part around the grab rail. I just got back from camping WVa for three days, and had a 50L dry bag, my tent, a cot, and a soft cooler bag cinched down up there and they never moved the whole ride.
See: https://www.nt-owners.org/forums/threads/rear-shelf-tiedown-points-added.13424/
 
Hey Harry, Those eye bolts look like a good idea; I like how they fit right into the bolts already in the plate.

Also, someone had mentioned above that using 93 octane fuel is a waste of money, but the owners manual does say to use a minimum of 91 octane. It seems like most states on the East Coast only offer 87, 89, and 93 octane. I realize it's a low compression engine, but I do want to avoid valve knocking from using a fuel with a low octane level.

And another thing: I have been keeping track of my MPG the old fashioned way, and I'm seriously getting like 68 MPG. Almost all of my riding in eastern Pennsylvania is on two lane state roads where I'm rarely going over 55 MPH; usually between 35 and 50 MPH.
 
also, using higher octane(93) does not result the ability to achieve the higher MPG

if 91 - 93 octane was supposed to be used, manual would say "required".
 
Exactly. Driving conditions being equal, ethanol free 86 will get you better MPG than ethanol containing 91.
 
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Hi John,
I do a LOT of camping with my NT, and have added two tie down eyebolts to the rear shelf. This really helps. I use RocStraps and put RocStrap's short elastic part into the eyebolt and the long part around the grab rail. I just got back from camping WVa for three days, and had a 50L dry bag, my tent, a cot, and a soft cooler bag cinched down up there and they never moved the whole ride.
See: https://www.nt-owners.org/forums/threads/rear-shelf-tiedown-points-added.13424/
Harry, I'm interested in know whay kind of cot you use while motorcycle camping, and how you like it. I'm getting tired sleep on the ground or sliding off an air mattress. John O
 
All, I realized I was using a European version of the NT700V owners manual I had printed off the internet. In Europe they calculate the Octane levels differently then here in the US. I stand corrected, and will be using 87 octane mostly from no on.
John O
 
John, out here in the higher altitudes of the west, we use 85 octane and it works great.
 
Harry, I'm interested in know whay kind of cot you use while motorcycle camping, and how you like it. I'm getting tired sleep on the ground or sliding off an air mattress. John O
Hi John, I have a Helinox cot: https://helinox.com/products/cot-one-convertible?variant=37873307254958

It stands about 6 inches off the ground and is very easy to put together. Takes about a minute. It's a bit expensive, but the comfort gained is worth it. I'm 6', so I got the long version.
 
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