Finally back to fettling on the NT after much vintage Japanese bike resto work. As per earlier posts, I bought the bike back in June and rode it back home from
Eugene, OR to San Diego. Bike now has roughly 5000 miles.
Intentions are to change both tires (from the original Bridgestones), inspect the rear end, grease the splines, add Hyperpro fork springs, add external
pannier locks, and finally do a valve check. The PO did not know whether the original shop ever did the first check. It was a demo bike he bought
with less than 4K miles on it. I've already added an Admore light kit to the Givi top box and cleaned up some wiring I felt was not to my standards.
I've also found some miss-assembly of some of the bodywork, missing hardware in the panniers and missing rear muffler bolt.
First step was to the the bike up on the lift, which was at the limit of my 74 YO bod and hindered by the left pannier lid. Had to use the engine
assist method. Will invite a younger friend over for a safer 2 person removal.
I had planned to remove the rear wheel without muffler removal, but ran into corrosion between the axle and shaft that prevented me pushing the axle
out in that tight space. This led me to start the exhaust removal as per Soundtechguy's video advice. However I figured I might be able to get to the
exhaust clamp bolts under the front of the shield by just removing the front 2 shield bolts and moving it about. Some of you may have done this,
but haven't seen any reports to that effect. Sure enough, the clamp bolts can be easily loosed, without removing the shield or the peg mount per
his instruction. Once loosened and the other exhaust bolts removed, the exhaust can be swung a couple of inches aside and the top rear shield
bolt accessed for shield removal (makes it easier if you have to manhandle the exhaust out). For the next tire change I should be able to just loosen
the clamps and bolts, then swing the exhaust out to provide access for rear axle and caliper removal (once the axle is thoroughly greased). In this case,
I wiggled the exhaust free (side to side works, up and down does not). That provided the access to drive out the axle. Once removed there was some
rust on the right side of the axle and inside the spacers that was not allowing easy removal. Oregon is a very wet place to live..
A new Dunlop Roadsmart III (took advantage of the $75 rebate) is mounted and wheel ready to install. Front end next, then the valve check.
Eugene, OR to San Diego. Bike now has roughly 5000 miles.
Intentions are to change both tires (from the original Bridgestones), inspect the rear end, grease the splines, add Hyperpro fork springs, add external
pannier locks, and finally do a valve check. The PO did not know whether the original shop ever did the first check. It was a demo bike he bought
with less than 4K miles on it. I've already added an Admore light kit to the Givi top box and cleaned up some wiring I felt was not to my standards.
I've also found some miss-assembly of some of the bodywork, missing hardware in the panniers and missing rear muffler bolt.
First step was to the the bike up on the lift, which was at the limit of my 74 YO bod and hindered by the left pannier lid. Had to use the engine
assist method. Will invite a younger friend over for a safer 2 person removal.
I had planned to remove the rear wheel without muffler removal, but ran into corrosion between the axle and shaft that prevented me pushing the axle
out in that tight space. This led me to start the exhaust removal as per Soundtechguy's video advice. However I figured I might be able to get to the
exhaust clamp bolts under the front of the shield by just removing the front 2 shield bolts and moving it about. Some of you may have done this,
but haven't seen any reports to that effect. Sure enough, the clamp bolts can be easily loosed, without removing the shield or the peg mount per
his instruction. Once loosened and the other exhaust bolts removed, the exhaust can be swung a couple of inches aside and the top rear shield
bolt accessed for shield removal (makes it easier if you have to manhandle the exhaust out). For the next tire change I should be able to just loosen
the clamps and bolts, then swing the exhaust out to provide access for rear axle and caliper removal (once the axle is thoroughly greased). In this case,
I wiggled the exhaust free (side to side works, up and down does not). That provided the access to drive out the axle. Once removed there was some
rust on the right side of the axle and inside the spacers that was not allowing easy removal. Oregon is a very wet place to live..
A new Dunlop Roadsmart III (took advantage of the $75 rebate) is mounted and wheel ready to install. Front end next, then the valve check.
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