RedBird
Site Supporter
A while back I decided I really needed to relocate my handlebars so I could sit up straight. I had heard of Helibars, and looked at their installation PDF, but I decided to do my own using handlebar risers (I already had a 1" riser), ROX bar extenders, Honda Transalp Clutch Cable, custom throttle cables from Motion Pro (see sources for cables) and a Goodridge 22" brake line (a 21" line may work even better) with straight and 35 degree banjo end. Also 4 new sealing washers for the banjo fittings. There is an extra straight banjo in the pic since I did not know which would work best, a straight or a 35 degree one. Also the brake line in the pic is 24" long which was too long so I got a 22" one after I found that out. Here is the stuff:
For the installation of these parts I generally followed the instructions available as a PDF download at the Helibars site for their product. My suggestion - follow the owners manual for plastic removal order. It is slightly different then what is documented in the Helibars PDF. The most tedious part is adjusting the throttle cables at the motor -- not difficult just takes time because of very little arc of movement space for the wrench. The clutch cable threads up from below easier if the wheel is turned to the left. For the brake line, clamp the straight banjo in a vice between 2 pieces of rubber and screw on the brake line. This is the lower end fitting for a non-ABS model. After using a Mityvac setup to suck out the brake fluid from the brake reservoir, then removing the factory brake line, bolt the 35 degree banjo to the reservoir and then bolt the lower banjo fitting of the Goodridge line to the junction block and screw the upper end of the line to the 35 degree banjo fitting. For an ABS model I would suggest you find a place that makes up hydraulic hoses (ask a farm implement dealer for a recommendation perhaps) and show them your hose (on the bike of course). Ask if they can use your fittings to make one 3" longer, or perhaps add a 3" extention to your hose.
Upper end of brake line:
Lower end of brake line - note that it is tie strapped to the fork tube to keep it low so it will not rub on full left turns:
Brake line looking down the tube - note that it is tie strapped midway between the clamps to keep it next to the tube:
Side view of the parts installed, note 1" riser and 2" ROX bar extender. I have recently changed out the 1" riser for a 1.5" one:
Another view of the parts installed:
I've described brake bleeding in another post, using the Mityvac setup to suck the fluid down the line while a friend keeps the reservoir topped off.
To raise the tank, loosen the bolts, swing the ROX bar extenders and attached bars up until the tank will clear. I used the ROX entenders with the anti-vib inserts, you could spend less money and use the solid ones if you prefer.
For the installation of these parts I generally followed the instructions available as a PDF download at the Helibars site for their product. My suggestion - follow the owners manual for plastic removal order. It is slightly different then what is documented in the Helibars PDF. The most tedious part is adjusting the throttle cables at the motor -- not difficult just takes time because of very little arc of movement space for the wrench. The clutch cable threads up from below easier if the wheel is turned to the left. For the brake line, clamp the straight banjo in a vice between 2 pieces of rubber and screw on the brake line. This is the lower end fitting for a non-ABS model. After using a Mityvac setup to suck out the brake fluid from the brake reservoir, then removing the factory brake line, bolt the 35 degree banjo to the reservoir and then bolt the lower banjo fitting of the Goodridge line to the junction block and screw the upper end of the line to the 35 degree banjo fitting. For an ABS model I would suggest you find a place that makes up hydraulic hoses (ask a farm implement dealer for a recommendation perhaps) and show them your hose (on the bike of course). Ask if they can use your fittings to make one 3" longer, or perhaps add a 3" extention to your hose.
Upper end of brake line:
Lower end of brake line - note that it is tie strapped to the fork tube to keep it low so it will not rub on full left turns:
Brake line looking down the tube - note that it is tie strapped midway between the clamps to keep it next to the tube:
Side view of the parts installed, note 1" riser and 2" ROX bar extender. I have recently changed out the 1" riser for a 1.5" one:
Another view of the parts installed:
I've described brake bleeding in another post, using the Mityvac setup to suck the fluid down the line while a friend keeps the reservoir topped off.
To raise the tank, loosen the bolts, swing the ROX bar extenders and attached bars up until the tank will clear. I used the ROX entenders with the anti-vib inserts, you could spend less money and use the solid ones if you prefer.
, so I'm not sure what else to do with it.... Suggestions?
