Remove pannier lids?

[Randall-in-Mpls]

How do I go about removing the pannier lids? A forum search didn't turn up much. Maybe I'm using the wrong search terms.
Last week, I discovered all the latches were loose. At least one screw won't tighten, as the plastic is cracked despite the PO reinforcing it with JB. I'd like to pour in some casting resin and set the screws, but the lids should be level for that.
Thanks for any insight.

 

[mikesim]

There are four screws (two on each hinge) that hold the pannier lid onto the pannier body. Additionally there are two pannier stay cords that attach to the lid and the body which prevent the lid from over-extending. These will need to be removed as well. It is advisable to have some means of support under the lid to keep it from over extending and cracking the lid at the hinges. I found that a five gallon bucket turned upside down with a towel over it works about perfectly to support the pannier. The four acorn nuts hold the hinge in place and the studs are integral with the hinge. Hope this helps!

Mike

BTW, while you are reinforcing the latch bosses with resin, pay attention to the pannier stay bosses that hold the stay to the lid. They also will crack apart with old age as the stays are held by self tapping screws that eventually weaken the bosses. It is much easier to reinforce the bosses now then to try to recreate them with resin later.

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

Thanks, it wasn't hard once I got a good look at it. I'll check the stay mou ts while it's apart.

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

I'll need to revisit the stay bosses over the winter, as they will require reorienting the lid for each casting.
I reassembled late Sunday morning to use in the afternoon. They worked well through multiple cycles, but after returning home, the right side bag will not open with the lever. I can open it by removing the seat and pressing the linkage directly, but something seems to be amiss in the rear latch. The resin might not have been completely set, and the metal latch part could have shifted. That is not the side that was reinforced/rebuilt with JB Weld, so alignment shouldn't be a problem. I'll investigate this weekend, maybe removing the grab bar for a better view.

 

[mikesim]

I'll need to revisit the stay bosses over the winter, as they will require reorienting the lid for each casting.
I reassembled late Sunday morning to use in the afternoon. They worked well through multiple cycles, but after returning home, the right side bag will not open with the lever. I can open it by removing the seat and pressing the linkage directly, but something seems to be amiss in the rear latch. The resin might not have been completely set, and the metal latch part could have shifted. That is not the side that was reinforced/rebuilt with JB Weld, so alignment shouldn't be a problem. I'll investigate this weekend, maybe removing the grab bar for a better view.

You may find that there is a buildup of grundge (technical term ) that's causing the mechanism to bind up. Try cleaning the latch assemblies with a solvent such as brake kleen or carb and choke cleaner and lightly relube the mechanism. The best lube that I've found is graphite based Lock Ease spray. After you spray it, the liquid vehicle quickly evaporates leaving only a dry graphite residue that doesn't collect grundge so readily. It's also very good for your other lock cylinders, ignition, fuel, pannier and left side fairing pocket.

Mike

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

Thanks, Mike. I'll take a look this week.

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

I found lots of grunge. Cleaned out what I could with PB Blaster (electrical contact cleaner didn't do much.) To my dismay, after cleaning, the left side latch started to stick. I didn't dare reinstall the seat until that was resolved, as I needed the left cover open to remove the seat, and the seat removed to manipulate the linkage to bypass the lever.
In my experience, mixing a dry lube with grease or oil is worse than doing nothing. Removing all the old grease would require much more disassembly than I want to tackle right now.
I bought some white lithium aerosol grease. (I had sent my previous can to school with my daughter for her bike chain.) After a generous application of that, both levers work properly. I'll be sure to reapply at the first indication of sticking.
Thanks again for all your insight.