Throttle Position Sensor TPS Part Number
- Thread starter dnktng
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Just seeing this , thanks for posting such a thorough illustration. Even though the problem is tentatively solved. It looks as this sub harness can be readily accessed and cleaned as a preventative measure.
That's great
True Dat.
My tp code returned after 175 miles or so. So I reread this whole thread and did the following.
1. Found the mid (sub) harness connector. Thank you! Cleaned and lubed it with dielectric. Did Not reattach to frame clip, instead strapped it to main harness thereby avoiding constant vibration from the frame.
2. Tie strapped the tp connector to the tp even though it snapped into position well enough.
Hopefully like you I'll be able to report back after a while that the trouble is gone. So far so good. (40 miles)
Just read up and figured I'd try to keep information fresh, I had bought one of the car tps for a honda accord until I saw the change in directions from this forum. Canceled the order and kept looking, found one under a different part number
16402-RAA-A01 JT6H 16402-RAC-A01 JT6HB Remanufactured Throttle Position Sensor TPS
Looked on amazon and that seemed to be the right dimensions and size, hoping for the best, if not the OEM part is like 126 on partzilla , this one was 12
Should be here in like three days so no long-term shipping
First, thank you everyone for this wealth of info!
I'm a new owner of this NT700V and its a great bike, but I get a MIL 8 flash at different temps and hours of riding. Shall I just replace the TPS with a new one?
After reviewing as many threads as possible... I'm confused on proper replacement part and supplier.
I'm a new owner of this NT700V and its a great bike, but I get a MIL 8 flash at different temps and hours of riding. Shall I just replace the TPS with a new one?
After reviewing as many threads as possible... I'm confused on proper replacement part and supplier.
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NO! Go to the very start of the Ignition chapter in the NT700 service manual and read the bullet points Honda put in there. This one being the most crucial: A faulty ignition system is often related to poor connections. Check those connections before proceeding
Honda's PGM-Fi is very robust. I have more miles than most across numerous fuel injected Honda's many of which most riders would consider high to extremely high mileage. Most have been years older than the NT. I have NEVER had to replace a throttle position sensor on any of them. Any hiccup a bike has ever had has been due to a poor electrical connection.
As for the 8 flash MIL and the TPS, see my very first post here (#131).
Throttle Position Sensor TPS Part Number | Electrical
Hi Clement, I have had MIL 8 issues for over 2 years. My story is well documented in this thread. I replaced the TPS sensor, the MAP sensor, the battery, and the voltage regulator, and even tried different gas because others have had success with one or more of those attempts in the past. I do...
www.nt-owners.org
Read the following posts after the above.
My post here has images detailing the connector positions to clean. (#140)
Throttle Position Sensor TPS Part Number | Electrical
Hi Clement, I have had MIL 8 issues for over 2 years. My story is well documented in this thread. I replaced the TPS sensor, the MAP sensor, the battery, and the voltage regulator, and even tried different gas because others have had success with one or more of those attempts in the past. I do...
www.nt-owners.org
OP
OP
That Mid Connecter was the likely cause of my MAP Sensor Code 1 intermittent failure years ago... I suspect. I don't think it was fully clicked together. IIRC none of the troubleshooting procedures ever check the connector for sensor failures... just checks the sensor or the ECM and overlooks the Mid Connector. The TPS, MAP, CMP and Fuel Injectors go thru that connector.
I have a spare throttle body with a TPS from a ex-member that had it left over from selling his NT. It was replace because it was giving him intermittent Code 8 TPS failure. Being interrmitent, it's pretty hard to prove it's bad... it reads the same as my original throttle body's TPS. I been handing on to it in case I ever get the dreaded code 8's.
I have a spare throttle body with a TPS from a ex-member that had it left over from selling his NT. It was replace because it was giving him intermittent Code 8 TPS failure. Being interrmitent, it's pretty hard to prove it's bad... it reads the same as my original throttle body's TPS. I been handing on to it in case I ever get the dreaded code 8's.
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All connectors are blanket called out before you get to any procedure. I keep coming back to the bullet points at the beginning of the Ignition chapter but people have a tendency to gloss right over "A faulty ignition system is often related to poor connections. Check those connections before proceeding" and go right to playing with parts. When I have any electrical sensor type issues my first step is to go straight for the wiring schematic, identify wire colors and connectors.
Too be clear for anyone reading "mid-connector" = 'throttle body subharness connector". It's the connection that joins the throttle body wiring harness with the bike's main harness.
I don't have the NT anymore, but something I remember seeing when I took that connector apart but don't think I ever mentioned was the connector pins. I seem to recall seeing copperish colored pins on one connector while the mating connector used silver colored pins. I wonder if we're looking at a dissimilar metals situation and a bit of Galvanic corrosion.
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I wouldn't waste any thought or time on that. It's incredibly unlikely your TPS is bad. My NT was under 10K on the odometer when I bought it and the 8 mil flash started within the first two weeks of ownership. After pulling apart and cleaning associated connectors I put another 45,000 miles on it with the 8 mil flash never happening again.
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Yeah, that should be the standard result . Lol
I wonder if Mellow could add an extra step in the site registration process. "Are you having problems with the TPS code on your 700?" "Yes?" "have you cleaned the associated connectors?"
Thanks NewTo700V. My new-to-me NT had 14.5K miles on it when I purchased it a month ago. On trips to the coast the last couple weeks, the throttle would not react when I turned it, and then maybe a minute or two later would surge and then all would be back to normal. Almost like a flat spot in the throttle action. This has happened a few times, but with no Check Engine Light coming on. I will make time this weekend to explore the throttle subharness connector. Thanks again for the knowledge and clues. Best, -borther.
OP
OP
I couldn't agree more and the statement deserves to be in Bold, Italics, and Blinking.
The slight/minor deficiency with the Honda Manual is that unless you look at the fold-out color schematic you won't see the troubled mid-connector... and so it is understood how it gets overlooked. The mid-connector is not shown in the Fuel Injection or Ignition System chapters simplified schematic that does show ECM and Sensor Connectors, but no mid-connector. The simplified Ignition System diagram does show other sub-harness connectors to aid people searching for electrical gremlins, but not the 10 pin mid-connector with the TPS, MAP, CMP and IACV wiring. Meh, it's a minor problem and the manual does give the generic instruction to check all connectors.
Somehow I collected a free throttle body with a TPS that was pulled from a ex-NT owners in Seattle. He had sold his NT and had the leftover throttle body that was pulled because of the code 8 TPS fault. I suspect it is fine and his NT had an intermittent mid connector like several have experienced here, you & I included.
In summary, if your NT is having intermittent TPS, MAP, CMP or IACV codes CHECK ALL ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS BEFORE PROCEEDING. It might save you a lot of grief, time, and money.
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It's the lack of troubleshooting, and the eagerness for dealer techs to load up the parts cannon. "If the light says it's X, then you must need a new X".
A TPS on any fuel injected Honda.. Accord, VFR, doesn't matter.. should EASILY handle 100K, 200K miles of use. The one Honda used on the NT isn't of a unique design. It's a bog standard PGM-FI arrangement.
A TPS on any fuel injected Honda.. Accord, VFR, doesn't matter.. should EASILY handle 100K, 200K miles of use. The one Honda used on the NT isn't of a unique design. It's a bog standard PGM-FI arrangement.
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I've another recent example of why you don't just throw parts at engine lights.
Few weeks ago my Honda cage threw a check engine light, code P2422 "EVAP vent valve stuck closed". This is a normally OPEN valve that sits on the Earth's atmosphere side of the activated charcoal canister that lives between the planet and the fuel tank vent. The ECU occasionally closes it to see a vacuum hold (EVAP system leak check)
Also on the canister is a pressure sensor (fuel tank vent connection end) so if the vent valve sticks closed ,it would see excessive vacuum form in the tank and trigger the code.
I pulled the valve off the canister. Plunger was free and open. Wasn't clogged as air easily passed through. Next was pressure sensor. I found a service bulletin regarding a fitting possibly installed wrong on the sensor's vent line. It wasn't, and wasn't clogged. I had a scan tool plugged up to ODB and could see live data from the sensor as I pressed my thumb into the ports. Was reading changes in pressure.
Next was the actual canister. I put the valve back on and tried to push a breath through the canister. I couldn't as it was clogged. So the answer was new canister NOT a valve. A clogged canister has the same effect as a stuck shut valve (tank drawing vacuum) so the ECU saw no difference.
If I had taken this to a shop, good chance they would have gotten me for a new valve, reset the light and sent me on my way. Only for it to return a while later and me bring it back. They would then probably have gotten me for a pressure sensor etc .
Lesson here. Think about how stuff works in the system. How it communicates with the vehicle's brain. Don't be one to load up the parts cannon.
Few weeks ago my Honda cage threw a check engine light, code P2422 "EVAP vent valve stuck closed". This is a normally OPEN valve that sits on the Earth's atmosphere side of the activated charcoal canister that lives between the planet and the fuel tank vent. The ECU occasionally closes it to see a vacuum hold (EVAP system leak check)
Also on the canister is a pressure sensor (fuel tank vent connection end) so if the vent valve sticks closed ,it would see excessive vacuum form in the tank and trigger the code.
I pulled the valve off the canister. Plunger was free and open. Wasn't clogged as air easily passed through. Next was pressure sensor. I found a service bulletin regarding a fitting possibly installed wrong on the sensor's vent line. It wasn't, and wasn't clogged. I had a scan tool plugged up to ODB and could see live data from the sensor as I pressed my thumb into the ports. Was reading changes in pressure.
Next was the actual canister. I put the valve back on and tried to push a breath through the canister. I couldn't as it was clogged. So the answer was new canister NOT a valve. A clogged canister has the same effect as a stuck shut valve (tank drawing vacuum) so the ECU saw no difference.
If I had taken this to a shop, good chance they would have gotten me for a new valve, reset the light and sent me on my way. Only for it to return a while later and me bring it back. They would then probably have gotten me for a pressure sensor etc .
Lesson here. Think about how stuff works in the system. How it communicates with the vehicle's brain. Don't be one to load up the parts cannon.
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Bravo!! Great job!! I'm always glad to see folks who don't automatically throw parts at whatever the MIL shows. Especially, EVAP cannister codes, they can be tricky. I'll bet that if you would have cut the cannister open you would have found that the nylon mesh that holds the charcoal granules had ruptured and the granules are plugging up the system. If that is the case, you would be wise to use compressed air to blow thru the EVAP plumbing to clear any granules that may have escaped. They can wreak havoc in the EVAP system.
Mike