Using an OBDII reader

[Coyote Chris]

My 2004 Honda CRV Manual transmission with 160K on it has a glowing Check Engine light. It runs fine. How to proceed?
I can buy an OBDII reader. It looks like they run from $10 to $140 for most of them....If I buy one, what should I look for?
I know the dealer will want one arm and two legs to scan it.

I found the port (Honda calls it a "Data Link Connector." ) I have the factory service manual. It is over 2 inches thick. I looked under every catagory and in the index but no joy as far as a list of codes but I bet the Honda CRV forum has them.
Here is a generic list of Honda codes

Most Complete List For Honda Check Engine Light Codes

So, what is the best way to proceed? This car is an around the town car which I take recycling to the center with. I also have a Toyota Matrix 2006 with 70K on it and a Subaru Forester 2018 with 24K on it for over the road work.
Edmondss/CarMax says the car is worth $2200 cash value

 

[RedLdr1]

Take your Honda to a chain auto parts store as most will read the codes and tell you what is going on for free. And in most cases they'll even have the part you need to fix it.

EDIT: If you buy a code reader the Scan Gauge brand is very good and does more than just read codes. You can get access to all sorts of info that isn't displayed with it. I've had mine, a Scan Gauge 2, for years and it is still going strong.

SECOND EDIT: I hate it when this happens... When I linked ScanGauge for Chris I foolishly went back to look around their website. Well they finally brought out a new model, the ScanGauge 3, and it's light years beyond my SG2 for NRT displays while driving. Amazon will be delivering my SG3 on Tuesday.

 

[mikesim]

As Wayne said, an AutoZone, O'Reilly or other national parts store can read what fault codes are stored in the ECM, and that is where you begin to look for the problem. A fault code however DOES NOT tell you what the problem is. A good example is a Catalyst Efficiency fault code. The kid at the parts store may tell you that the code means the cat converter is bad. So, you take a deep breath and plunk down hundreds of $ for a new cat converter, install it and the MIL returns with the same fault code! It turns out that the downstream (#2) O2 sensor is the culprit and the cost for that rascal was only $100. If you get an O2 fault code, you are probably pretty safe in replacing the indicated sensor with about 80% certainty. Something else, then I would let a pro diagnose the problem.

Scan tools have come way down in price and a good brand for a home mechanic is Innova. Expect to pay $75 to $100. A code reader of just OBD codes is much less but a full featured unit will also help with ABS, transmission, and body codes.

Mike

 

[Coyote Chris]

Take your Honda to a chain auto parts store as most will read the codes and tell you what is going on for free. And in most cases they'll even have the part you need to fix it.

EDIT: If you buy a code reader the Scan Gauge brand is very good and does more than just read codes. You can get access to all sorts of info that isn't displayed with it. I've had mine, a Scan Gauge 2, for years and it is still going strong.

SECOND EDIT: I hate it when this happens... When I linked ScanGauge for Chris I foolishly went back to look around their website. Well they finally brought out a new model, the ScanGauge 3, and it's light years beyond my SG2 for NRT displays while driving. Amazon will be delivering my SG3 on Tuesday.

Thanks! I will call the local auto parts stores.....

As Wayne said, an AutoZone, O'Reilly or other national parts store can read what fault codes are stored in the ECM, and that is where you begin to look for the problem. A fault code however DOES NOT tell you what the problem is. A good example is a Catalyst Efficiency fault code. The kid at the parts store may tell you that the code means the cat converter is bad. So, you take a deep breath and plunk down hundreds of $ for a new cat converter, install it and the MIL returns with the same fault code! It turns out that the downstream (#2) O2 sensor is the culprit and the cost for that rascal was only $100. If you get an O2 fault code, you are probably pretty safe in replacing the indicated sensor with about 80% certainty. Something else, then I would let a pro diagnose the problem.

Scan tools have come way down in price and a good brand for a home mechanic is Innova. Expect to pay $75 to $100. A code reader of just OBD codes is much less but a full featured unit will also help with ABS, transmission, and body codes.

Mike

Thanks for the info!!! When my wife's subbie through an engine fault light, 150 miles away, a local parts store...Oreillies told her that her automatic tranny valve body had failed but failed in a good way and the car was safely drivable back to spokane.....it was an $800 repair but better than leaving the car in the tri cities and shuttling.

I suppose the next question is if I get an expensive sounding code, do I take it to an autonation Honda dealer who is a known markup artist or the local small Honda specialty shop.

 

[mikesim]

Thanks! I will call the local auto parts stores.....


Thanks for the info!!! When my wife's subbie through an engine fault light, 150 miles away, a local parts store...Oreillies told her that her automatic tranny valve body had failed but failed in a good way and the car was safely drivable back to spokane.....it was an $800 repair but better than leaving the car in the tri cities and shuttling.

I suppose the next question is if I get an expensive sounding code, do I take it to an autonation Honda dealer who is a known markup artist or the local small Honda specialty shop.

If the Honda specialty shop has a good reputation, that's where I would take it. A good many of the import specialty shops are owned by a very competent former dealership technician who got tired of the dealership BS and struck out on his own.

Mike

 

[Coyote Chris]

If the Honda specialty shop has a good reputation, that's where I would take it. A good many of the import specialty shops are owned by a very competent former dealership technician who got tired of the dealership BS and struck out on his own.

Mike

Welll. That was interesting. I started the car and it started normaly. I drove 300 yards tword Oreillies and the car started bucking every 1/2 to one second. I got it home and sat at idle. It idlee normally. It would go to 2000 with the gas peddle and in neutral. at 2700 the engine cut out and fell it 2000 rpm and then picked up again. I am going to sit in the car in its spot and warm it up and see what it does but right now, its undrivable. I will see if I can purchase the reccommended OBDII reader.

 

[Coyote Chris]

also: I turned off the defroaster and let the engine warm up. Idle was a bit eraticc...once engine was warm in Neutral, it did the same trick. It would to go 2000 Rpm and then at 2500 or so it would die and then pick up again at 2000. Ordering OBDII

 

[Frosty]

Sorry that I not home. I have one but I am not sure if it is in the garage or in the storage unit.

 

[Coyote Chris]

Sorry that I not home. I have one but I am not sure if it is in the garage or in the storage unit.

No problem....I need to know if some just give a P code you have to try and decypher or some tell you the actual problem.
Snowing in Spokane

 

[mikesim]

No problem....I need to know if some just give a P code you have to try and decypher or some tell you the actual problem.
Snowing in Spokane

Even if your scan tool doesn't give you detailed info about your code, there is an abundance of info on the 'net. Also, O'Reilly and maybe others can give you a very detailed print out of the fault code, what parts fixed the problem for techs, and also detailed step by step diagnostic procedures. I'm gonna PM you with my cell# if you need further info.

Mike

 

[Coyote Chris]

Even if your scan tool doesn't give you detailed info about your code, there is an abundance of info on the 'net. Also, O'Reilly and maybe others can give you a very detailed print out of the fault code, what parts fixed the problem for techs, and also detailed step by step diagnostic procedures. I'm gonna PM you with my cell# if you need further info.

Mike

Thanks! Someone on the CRV forum said you could google just about any CRV trouble code and find out all about it....Once I get it fixed or donated, I have some decisions on what to do to replace it....I have a great 2006 Toyota two wheel drive stick with 70k on it but its getting long in the tooth also, years wise.....still, its lots of fun to drive and I can afford to keep it, even with insureance.....the issue is my wife who drives a billion miles a year to dog shows in a clunker 2015 Forester that has been hit by a deer and a dump truck and has had a tranny valve body failure, etc. She has four times the money I do and is a procrastinator about doing anything simple like buying a new Forester...so I need a spare for her to use when her car is in the shop.....I will send back my cell phone number and ping you. Chris

 

[seagrass]

CRV’s are very reliable (currently driving our 4th one) and the problem is likely to have a simple solution.

Possibly a blocked fuel filter or a misfiring cylinder from what you describe.

Other possibility is engine bay wiring damaged by a rodent.

All fairly simple fixes on your 2004 CRV.

Seagrass

 

[mikesim]

Yup! Critters can do a remarkable amount of damage in a short period of time!

Mike

 

[JQL]

Sounds like it could be the TPS. I had similar symptoms on my NT700

If it is, I believe it's the exact same TPS as is on the NT700!

 

[Coyote Chris]

I looked for rodent nests and damage....I have certainly found nests before....very odd the engine will go up to 2500, fall like a brick to 2000, and head up to 2500..under load or at idle.
Anyway, I ordered a cheepo $20 OBDII and a more expensive $69 one that does more things...Amazon had a coupon for $23 off that one...they should be here in 3 days....
A TPS may not be too bad to replace. I have the official 2 in thick manual and the forum is a bunch of good guys....the web says its a pita.

 

[Coyote Chris]

The element is similar to the CRV. I think this guy knows what he is doing.

 

[Coyote Chris]

Got the cheepy OBDII code reader today. The one and only code is P2647, but the fix for a P2646 is the same. The car is in limp home mode. The solinoid/valve body sensor screen assy has failed. This actuates the Vtec system. This is very common. It not particually a hard job...first, I make sure rodents havent eaten the wire harness and there is enough oil. Then, I order a new assy. Everyone says dont just try and replace the solinoid. There are a number of vids on how to do this. This may be the best cause the lady uses a mirror.

 

[Coyote Chris]

OK, I have checked for rodent damage and see none. Not quite sure now to release the two electrical connectors but pleanty of room to take out the acutator assy bolts and assy and study the connectors for their release mechanism.

 

[Coyote Chris]

The CRV forum folk say to get the OEM for $234 cause the $30 to $130 aftermarket ones fail or can fail quickly. Thoughts?

 

[RedLdr1]

My 2004 Honda CRV Manual transmission with 160K

Based on that info I'd go cheap. You're on borrowed time before the next failure...