Using an OBDII reader

[Hondafan]

Autozone has one for $90

 

[mikesim]

The CRV forum folk say to get the OEM for $234 cause the $30 to $130 aftermarket ones fail or can fail quickly. Thoughts?

The aftermarket solenoids are made by Dorman and are of Chinese origin. Their success rate is highly variable. The solenoid has a filter screen which can be clogged with crud. The filter is about ~$5 at O'Reilly and the solenoid is about ~$100-110. Here are your options... depending on the degree of difficulty to replace.

1.) If existing screen is clogged, clean and replace.
2.) Replace screen only
3. Replace screen and solenoid with aftermarket
4.) Replace screen and solenoid with OE

If it's a fairly easy job and the screen is clogged, clean it and replace
If the screen can't be cleaned, replace with new
see if the screen fixes the problem
If the problem persists, replace with aftermarket. As I said, the quality of the Dorman replacement is iffy. The good thing is that the part has a lifetime warranty thru O'Reilly, I can't speak for the other parts stores. If it's easy to swap out you can try and save a few bucks.
or, bite the bullet replace everything with OE and be done with it!

Ya' pays yer money and ya' takes yer chances.....



Mike

 

[Coyote Chris]

The aftermarket solenoids are made by Dorman and are of Chinese origin. Their success rate is highly variable. The solenoid has a filter screen which can be clogged with crud. The filter is about ~$5 at O'Reilly and the solenoid is about ~$100-110. Here are your options... depending on the degree of difficulty to replace.

1.) If existing screen is clogged, clean and replace.
2.) Replace screen only
3. Replace screen and solenoid with aftermarket
4.) Replace screen and solenoid with OE

If it's a fairly easy job and the screen is clogged, clean it and replace
If the screen can't be cleaned, replace with new
see if the screen fixes the problem
If the problem persists, replace with aftermarket. As I said, the quality of the Dorman replacement is iffy. The good thing is that the part has a lifetime warranty thru O'Reilly, I can't speak for the other parts stores. If it's easy to swap out you can try and save a few bucks.
or, bite the bullet replace everything with OE and be done with it!

Ya' pays yer money and ya' takes yer chances.....



Mike

Like Wayne says, the car is on borrowed time anyway and would only be used in an emergency to help my wife out. So far, her 2015 Forster, 160K, has been hit by a deer, had a CVT valve body failure, and smashed by a dump truck. Each time, she used the CRV till her car was fixed. But, In my Humble opinion., its not worth keeping this thing around. She could use my reduced capacity 2006 Toyota Matrix if need be. But the monkey is on her back...there is nothing stopping her from laying down $50k for a nice Subaru Ascent to carry all her dogs to shows around the west summer and winter (we are taking my 2018 Forester to Helena and Great falls). The CRV is just too expensive to keep for a pet in the State of WA. So I will try a couple of cheep fixes and probably just donate it to a friend or orgnizataion. If she wants to break down in 100 degree Oregon heat when I am not at home, in that POS she drives, with 3 dogs worth $100,000 each, that monkey is on her back.

 

[DirtFlier]

$50K for a Subaru....really?

 

[RedLdr1]

$50K for a Subaru....really?

See Here That Ascent is $47,868 sticker. Now add in 6.5% TAVT, $3,111.41, and you're at $50,979.42 before any dealer fees and other add on charges. Subaru wants to compete with Audi... Price wise they aren't doing too bad. If you want real sticker shock look at their Solterra EV prices.

 

[mikesim]

$50K for a Subaru....really?

Yup! Subaru is trying to move upscale from their humble beginnings. Our '16 Outback is considerably more plush, luxurious and featured than I ever expected a Subie to be.

Mike

 

[Coyote Chris]

Yup! Subaru is trying to move upscale from their humble beginnings. Our '16 Outback is considerable more plush, luxurious and featured than I ever expected a Subie to be.

Mike

OK, let me check again....my 2018 Subaru Forester was $28, 383 (base price was 27,150 before dealer added extras...plus tax and a document fee (hyway robbery) In today's dollars, that would be 34,860 with inflation, Plus of course the wa state tax of 9 percent. Today at Parker Subaru across the state line in Idaho, a new Premium Forester , 2024, with $1800 discount is $31K.
https://www.parkersubaru.com Parker makes buying in Idaho easy for WA state residents and gives oil change discounts should you care to take your car to them for service...which I do as they have always treated me well, unlike Autonation Subaru in Spokane that brought my wife's car in for a pax seat connector recall and said WE needed to pay THEM $1500 for a new seat cushiion!!! We clicked the pax saftey belt shut and drove away.

Depending on the package you want, the discount goes up and the price becomes more like $33k. This is a privately owned dealer and is very highly thought of. They have 320 Subies in stock.
There are 32 Ascents in stock. The lowest is $38k...quite a few in the $40k range with lots in the $44-45,000 range....if you absolutely have to have the upper trim levels, yes, you will pay $47,500 and up plus pirate fees for all the Gee Gaws. (Barb isnt a gee gaw person...all she cares about is how many dog crates it will hold... all Subies now come with the Eyesite system, which she has and I have and love, and adaptive cruise and blind side avoidance.)
So yes, I stand behind my $50,000 Ascent, minus a few scheckles for her trade in. I dont think she needs or wants the touring or Onyx package. The 9 percent sales tax in WA is taken care of by Parker and its just something we live with like we live with the no state income tax. Or food or medicine tax. Really? Some states tax food and medicine....

Fun Factoid. WA state considers extended Warrenties "Insurance" and anyone selling them must be licenced to sell insurance in WA state. So we on the Subie forum use Subaru Stamford in Stamford CT. They specialize in official Subaru Extended warrenties....$100 deductable. For Subaru Gold Plus, I paid $800 plus $50 CT sales tax for 8 yr/80,000 mile warrenty...far below what the stealers in WA state wanted. Right now I am at 24,000 mi and six years.

 

[Coyote Chris]

The aftermarket solenoids are made by Dorman and are of Chinese origin. Their success rate is highly variable. The solenoid has a filter screen which can be clogged with crud. The filter is about ~$5 at O'Reilly and the solenoid is about ~$100-110. Here are your options... depending on the degree of difficulty to replace.

1.) If existing screen is clogged, clean and replace.
2.) Replace screen only
3. Replace screen and solenoid with aftermarket
4.) Replace screen and solenoid with OE

If it's a fairly easy job and the screen is clogged, clean it and replace
If the screen can't be cleaned, replace with new
see if the screen fixes the problem
If the problem persists, replace with aftermarket. As I said, the quality of the Dorman replacement is iffy. The good thing is that the part has a lifetime warranty thru O'Reilly, I can't speak for the other parts stores. If it's easy to swap out you can try and save a few bucks.
or, bite the bullet replace everything with OE and be done with it!

Ya' pays yer money and ya' takes yer chances.....



Mike

Another person said the Dorman is iffy....and to by from RockAuto.com, Buy the NTK VV 0122. So I have to change the old 5000 mile oil and 2 year old engine filter, and I have the official honda trouble shooting chart....2 pages....if nothing else, I dontate the turkey.

 

[mikesim]

NTK is the electronic sensor division of NGK so it's good stuff. NTK is likely the OE supplier to Honda.

Mike

 

[Coyote Chris]

NTK is the electronic sensor division of NGK so it's good stuff. NTK is likely the OE supplier to Honda.

Mike

OK, ordered one from the biggest supplier of NGK/NTK parts on Ebay. Got a new engine oil filter and oil and I have the official Honda trouble shooting manual. If nothing else works, I may see if my car insurance tow package will allow the dealer to pick it up on a flat bed (limp home mode is obnoxious) and see if they can give me an estimate. The people on the CRV forum have been very helpful.....one guy wrote this.

“ P2647 "Rocker arm actuator stuck "On". This means to me the system is telling the assy to send oil to the pins to lock the rocker arms of theft Vtec valves all the time. ?”

No. That is a generic explanation. Pay no attention to what that scan tool description says.

The Honda P2647 is “vtec oil pressure switch high voltage”, as you see in the service manual.

The vtec oil pressure switch is a ECM “pull up” sense circuit. ECM puts 12v on the wire, and when the pressure switch is in continuity that grounds the wire when there is low oil pressure, meaning 0V is on the wire. When oil pressure is sufficiently high, the switch goes open circuit and thus 12v is sensed on the wire. In P2647, the ECM is sensing 12V on the wire when it is not expecting it, thus high voltage.

For the purposes of the vtec pressure switch - open circuit, 12v sensed on wire, and OFF are synonymous.

I can now get to all the connectors and plugs and jacks.....

 

[Coyote Chris]

OK. Bit thanks to all here. The Honda is running for now. I removed the engine oil filter that the "official" Honda dealer put on there 4/22 at 155,488 miles. It was a "Preceision" The work sheet calls it a PPg4612. I put in 5 Quarts of synthetic Quaker 5 w 20 . I changed the oil but not the filter at around mid Mid 2023 when I changed the duel pump fluid. Around 157K. I then took out the old original solinoid/pressure switch. Screen was clean. The gasket soft and pliable. Ohms of the solinoid were about 15. Ohms of the oil pressure switch were unstable...anywhere from 35-150. I examined the connectors and reinstalled a new NTK VV0122 assy, used a torque wrench to 7 ft lbs, going a little at a time on the three 10 mm bolts. I then created and fastened new cable tie cable bundle keepers. I then put on a code reader, cleared the one code, and started the vehilce up. The engine light went off right away. I reved the engine a bit and then warmed up the car and took it out on the road and took it to 5,000 rpm in three gears. No issues. I checked for leaks and couldnt find any. I let the car cool down and repeated. It is now 3-16- 24 and 159, 599 miles. I will continue to test the vehicle and see if the repair holds. I have all dealer records back to 2004. Brake fluid was changed at 147k, dual pump fluid last year, manueal tranny fluid in 2022. Tires and battery are very new. I will report back on what I do with this car....

 

[seagrass]

Sounds like you have it all fixed

Seagrass

 

[ST1100Y]

So you spent $ 57.75,- + P&P on a spare that fixed a 20 year old Honda which overall quality & durability won't be matched by any current/newer vehicle... not bad I'd say...
(I drive an obviously indestructible '96 Toyota with 322,000km/200k-miles on the clock since day one (ex company car I bought out for € 1000,-; always properly serviced, only driven by me, hence a bargain), only some TLC and a couple of wear parts through all those years...)