bag lid latches

I think you are on target with the small screwdriver in the latch. Pull latch with screwdriver and pull the latch release. It should open up and get you back in business.

Brad
 
Chuck, I'm ready to try this. Did you have a "how to" post on how you did this?
Simple:
1. Get two extra keys cut.
2. get two plastic bottle caps of your choice.
3. put keys into locks.
4. measure where to cut off key.
5. cut key
6. epoxy/JB weld key into bottle cap.
7. let dry.

The pannier key fob will open the gas cap. If you did it correctly the glove box will be too short to open the gas cap. When securing bike, pull both key fobs and thrown them in locked glove box. use ignition key to unlock glove box when unsecuring bike.
 
And I'd add:
8. Paint a line or arrow on the cap so you know whether it is in the locked or unlocked position.
 
When securing bike, pull both key fobs and thrown them in locked glove box. use ignition key to unlock glove box when unsecuring bike.

The knob keys aren't long enough to operate the ignition, are they? So if the panniers and pockets don't contain any valuables, you could just leave the knob keys in place.
 
I just went out and did a check. The ignition takes the key all the way to the hilt. The side pocket and side case locks just take the key to the end of the teeth. Seems that the knob keys would be way too shirt to operate the ignition.
 
They are. Chuck Henderson gave me a couple of oil can lids and this thread reminds me that my local mechanic ordered two key blanks for me a couple of months ago. I'll give him a call Tuesday and see if they've come in and get me two of those made up. It seems to me as if Chuck Henderson said that there's even a difference in depth between the fairing pocket lock and the luggage lock (or maybe between those and the gas cap lock).
 
There seemed to be slight difference in the depths of the fairing pocket and side case locks. I think the side case lock was a bit deeper, but don't quote me. The difference is small, maybe 1/16 inch.
 
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