Alright...
Draining the oil, replacing filter and clutch plates went pretty uneventful, removal of silencer obligatory, down-pipes can stay in place...
Thickness of old friction plates still well within usable limits, but they showed
significant discoloration (very dark brown) so I replaced them while already in there anyway...
Soaked the new plates in new engine oil (decided to go with full synth this time), assembled the stack, put things back together in reverse order...
Runs perfect, clutch engages a bit earlier and very precise now, no issues with shifting into neutral while stationary anymore...
Things helpful to know:
- also order 90236-HA0-000, NUT,LOCK,18MM when attempting the job; the nut is made of hardened steel, nearly impossible to bend the punched collar open without braking it
- after stacking the steel- & friction plates onto the clutch center, take two clutch springs with the lifter plate and screw it on, it'll hold the set together, eases inserting it into the basket
- remember that the tabs of disk B grab into the notches of the clutch basket fingers, not the slots (as all other friction plates)
- having a
clutch-tool like this comes handy when torquing the central nut