Crank Position Sensor

[nunyet]

HI all, I need to replace mine, I got the 19 code, hot /no start condition here in South Florida. I have been searching the manual and the site, there are a lot of posts but one thing I am unsure of is the parts list needed. Is it only the sensor? No gasket or other small bits? If no gasket, I assume some gasket goo is needed based on one of the pics I came across here. I did find how to test it in the manual, but nothing on remove and replacing it. Thanks for any help.
This is the part number I'll order, just didn't want to do that if I needed some others.
PULSE GENERATOR
30300-MEW-921

 

[DirtFlier]

The right side engine cover is sealed with Hondabond. I can't remember the Hondabond number but it's a hi-temp, non-hardening sealer.

The muffler has to be removed and the headpipe nuts loosened at the head to provide wiggle room to get the cover free. Just take your time because it's not a difficult task.



In this photo, the Crank Position Sensor (small black box) is at the 2 o'clock position and just inside the first curve of the exhaust headpipes.

 

[nunyet]

Thanks! Hondabond, that is what i needed to know. I've done the fuel pump on the bike and some other light maintenance so it should go ok, but i will focus on patience too. Appreciate the reply.

 

[mikesim]

You can expect to lose some oil when you crack open the side case. If you have a way of leaning the bike over on it's left side onto some cushions or padding you can save the oil mess. Make sure that both mating surfaces are "squeaky clean" before you apply the Honda Bond. The sealer also goes by the name of Three Bond and Permatex makes an equivalent product for motorcycles sold at most parts store. The sealers have a definite shelf life so make sure the tube squeezes easily before you pay for it. Three Bond has a stale date on the box.

Mike

 

[Coyote Chris]

Like Dirtflyer said. Not a hard job...just a bunch of wrench spinning. Fun to check the chain tension while you are in there. You might want to consider leaving the exhausts off and starting it up. .
By the way, this is a high failure rate item on many vehicles, like...I dont know...1996 Subaru cam position sensor. The main thing to know is if the engine is warm and wont start, letting the engine cool (or using freeze spray) will allow the fine wire coil that is broken to re-make contact enough so that it will start. Once the engine is going, the little gnome that lives in the engine computer knows where the crank is and where the cam is as he starts the engine and then even if the crank position sensor re-opens up, he remembers where everything WAS and should be so the engine will continue to run till you turn it off and the gnome goes back to sleep. So dont stop the engine again till you get somewhere safe.

 

[nunyet]

Thanks Mike. I was thinking about draining the oil, wasn't sure how much would leak. I may do that or just deal with the mess and add back what i need to. I'm ordering a tube of the sealer and will check the date when it arrives.
Chris, I won't be able to look at the gnomes in my yard now without thinking of a claymore! Ha . I'm just taking simple one stop trips now till I get the new part in, should be ok for a week or so. Thanks for the info and the laugh.

 

[Coyote Chris]

Thanks Mike. I was thinking about draining the oil, wasn't sure how much would leak. I may do that or just deal with the mess and add back what i need to. I'm ordering a tube of the sealer and will check the date when it arrives.
Chris, I won't be able to look at the gnomes in my yard now without thinking of a claymore! Ha . I'm just taking simple one stop trips now till I get the new part in, should be ok for a week or so. Thanks for the info and the laugh.

I fought my wifes old subaru before I googled the problem...when ever I parked the car hot, it wouldnt start after 5 minutes in a store. Thanks to google, I got a can of freeze mist and sprayed the cam position sensor, which was accessable, and voila! Car started....I LOVE garden gnomes....LOL!

 

[gwenamax]

Question on reading codes | Electrical

Hello! Newbie here - first time posting. (Hopefully in the correct forum!) I read the post on reading the engine codes, which was very helpful. After shorting out the green and brown wires indicated, and turning the ignition key on, I was able to count the flashes on the MIL (or "check...

www.nt-owners.org

 

[mikesim]

Question on reading codes | Electrical

Hello! Newbie here - first time posting. (Hopefully in the correct forum!) I read the post on reading the engine codes, which was very helpful. After shorting out the green and brown wires indicated, and turning the ignition key on, I was able to count the flashes on the MIL (or "check...

www.nt-owners.org

?

 

[gwenamax]

at the end of page 1 and on page 2, you've picture that can help you.

 

[rc_heli_nut]

Thanks Mike. I was thinking about draining the oil, wasn't sure how much would leak. I may do that or just deal with the mess and add back what i need to. I'm ordering a tube of the sealer and will check the date when it arrives.
Chris, I won't be able to look at the gnomes in my yard now without thinking of a claymore! Ha . I'm just taking simple one stop trips now till I get the new part in, should be ok for a week or so. Thanks for the info and the laugh.

It's possible that if you don't drain the oil, it will still be spilling off the lower edge of the engine case, and as others have mentioned here, unless the mating surfaces are oil free you may not get a proper seal with the sealer and then you'll have to do the repair twice. The truth is, sealers such as Hondabond and Permatex won't adhere correctly to oily surfaces and you'll have a void that leaks.

If it was my NT I'd definitely drain the oil, no question. Internal engine repairs like this are a good time for an oil change anyways.

 

[nunyet]

i have decided to do that, i had changed it not that long ago so was thinking not to but summer heat isnt good for oil anyway and overall it will make the job easier. Thanks

 

[nunyet]

Hi all, ready to do this task, parts came in this week, but i realized today after draining the oil [ok still draining!] that the rubber grommet for the wires to this part have always weeped a bit of oil after a highway run, when i get up around 5000 rpm. i keep having to clean the front engine case. its just a film that grabs dirt, nothing major. But the question I have is should the new grommets cure that problem, or should i coat the new grommets with anything? Honda bond?

 

[rc_heli_nut]

If the new sensor comes with a new grommet, which I'm assuming it does, use it as-is without any sealer. The old grommet may just be dried out.

Just clean the notches in the engine cases thoroughly. This should solve your problem, make sure the wiring is routed properly before installing side cover.

One should never put sealer on o-rings and grommets, they need to remain movable to work right. Sealer locks them in place and creates problems later on.

 

[nunyet]

Got it , thank you! The wiring on new part does have new grommets. Taking it all apart now.

 

[nunyet]

I wrote that hours ago, forgot to click post. Going well, patience definitely required.

 

[nunyet]

The bike is back running, thanks everyone for the help. It took me the weekend and last night, had to work around the rest of my busy schedule. I have to admit it would have been done Sunday if I had remembered to tighten the sensor bolts the first time. I got distracted right after putting the grommets into the case and jumped to the gasket application. Right after I tightened all the bolts on the cover I realized it. Checked my ratchet with the 10 mil and it was still on the loosen setting. So took an overnight break and fixed that the next day. Good thing I remembered, and hadn't added oil yet!
This forum is really helpful, I don't post a lot but read most everything.

 

[mikesim]

Glad to hear that the "operation" was a success!

Mike

 

[rc_heli_nut]

Shout out to the DIY people out there. Fix it yourself and save $$$

 

[harryhendo]

I just rebuilt the front forks on Missy, and it was easy. Just takes time and patience, not much technical skill. The seals cost $16 each. That saved me a lot of money.