Harry, did you replace your bushings as well?
Crank Position Sensor
- Thread starter nunyet
- Start date
Phil... I just replaced the fork seals and the fork seal covers (they come as a kit with both in it). The bushings looked fine.
DirtFlier
Site Supporter
harryhendo - that's known as "high Jacking the topic." The original post was about the crank position sensor. It really helps to stay on topic otherwise it turns to useless garage. 
ps. It's really not difficult to start your own post with the topic of "Fork Seals."
ps. It's really not difficult to start your own post with the topic of "Fork Seals."
Hello all, wanted to add a followup on the project, since part of what I was hoping to cure was a regular seepage of oil from the grommets. After a few weeks of riding, including some higher rpm runs around 5000 or just over, there is no film of oil at all, and i would have seen it by now. Wanted to share in case someone else runs across that issue.
I was out for a ride today stopped for some lunch and came out and the bike wouldn’t start code 19. I did get it started and made it home. I just ordered the parts and the hondabond do you know the toque spec for the cover and the sensor? The gap I’ll measure before I take off the sensor. Unless someone has the spec. Thanks for this fourm
Thanks for the quick reply..do I have to remove the whole exhaust system? I hope to work on it this weekend..There is no air gap adjustment - you just screw it in place. The cover screws are 6 mm thread so they require the normal 7 ft-lbs of torque.
DirtFlier
Site Supporter
The muffler has to be removed and both headpipes loosened. Someone on this site mentioned being able to remove the cover without loosening the headpipes but I couldn't manage that on my bike. The front headpipe nuts are a cinch to loosen but the rears are very tedious because of the lack of space to swing a wrench.
The crank position sensor is the little black box at 2 o'clock in the photo, facing the reluctor (the toothed wheel).
The crank position sensor is the little black box at 2 o'clock in the photo, facing the reluctor (the toothed wheel).
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Thanks again for all of your help..I hope I can tackle it this weekendThe muffler has to be removed and both headpipes loosened. Someone on this site mentioned being able to remove the cover without loosening the headpipes but I couldn't manage that on my bike. The front headpipe nuts are a cinch to loosen but the rears are very tedious because of the lack of space to swing a wrench.
The crank position sensor is the little black top at 2 o'clock in the photo, facing the reluctor (the toothed wheel).
For what it is worth, I did not need to loosen the headpipes at all. Pretty easy job overall.
Coyote Chris
Site Supporter
It really isnt a bad job....like any bit of wrench spinning, just take your time...I am a note taker......
Go to the search bar and type in clutch cover removal there is a link that walks you through the process of CPS replacement and it is very well written I replaced mine about a month ago and the link helped ALOT as I have no service manual good luck jt
mikesim
Site Supporter
Yup! I remember working on the Brit bikes. We used red hematite and that was only temporary. Sooner or later (more likely sooner) what ever you sealed would start leaking again... and the Brits accepted that as normal!
Mike
DirtFlier
Site Supporter
Pat Owens was an instructor at a tech school in LA who used a surface plate and various grades of emery paper to lap the case halves and covers to perfection on his 650 Triumph. He did extensive traveling on that bike, with his wife on back, and it had well over 100k drip-free miles.
Pat Owens Remembered | Rider Magazine
Pat Owens Remembered | Rider Magazine