Dad-gummed Pannier Latches!!!!

[charlie b]

First, let me say I considered the latches "backup" to the factory latches. Their strength is still limited by the plastic lip of the pannier lid. Probably a little stronger than the screws in the lid but still not overly strong.

If you want to use them as the only latch, I'd get some that attach to the lids a bit further in. This is a couble edge sword cause the lids have some ribs and such that could get in the way of a latch install.

Having said all that, here are pics of mine (not mine anymore ). Note: those two locations were chosen because they were the only two places I could fit my fingers in behind the frame portion of the panniers.

If doing this again I would make a slight change. I used washers as backing for the pop rivets that attached the latches to the bike. Instead I'd make special backing plates with holes to match. On the latches I used it would be a small place with two holes. This would spread the load a bit and make the attachment point a bit stronger.

 

[Comanche]

First, let me say I considered the latches "backup" to the factory latches. Their strength is still limited by the plastic lip of the pannier lid. Probably a little stronger than the screws in the lid but still not overly strong.

If you want to use them as the only latch, I'd get some that attach to the lids a bit further in. This is a double edge sword cause the lids have some ribs and such that could get in the way of a latch install.

Interesting, Charlie - I didn't know you still used the OEM latch system. I was under the impression that you had removed the factory system.

 

[charlie b]

Yes, the OEM latches were still there.

I tend to overload cases. I would press my leg (hard) up against the lid to get it shut. Then I heard the horror stories bout latches failing and lids coming open. Given the issues with the stock lids I would worry on a trip about them popping open. I started out by putting bungee cords over them to make sure they wouldn't spill my stuff over the highway. I finally decided to add the external latches and that solved my insecurity issue.

The other reason I retained the stock latches was to be able to lock them easily. I never had a problem with them working (except for losing a return spring, but, that didn't effect the operation of the latches).

Yep, doublers work well. And using pop rivets you have to have something there anyway. You could use small nuts and bolts, but, do not use loctite! Even a little bit will get to the plastic. The fumes from curing are the bad part. Kinda like super glue, it also turns plastic brittle.

 

[Coyote Chris]

OK! Here we go with the latch pics.....here is my full album. Note the nice bosses for the screws. When I get some time I will write up a report on how to install these (two to a side) and how to adjust them for
best latch feel. Keys for both latches I ordered were the same. Hardware- elf.com L-070A $23.98 for both delivered. The only reason I am installing two to a side is for safety.

(correction, May 2016. Here is the new sourse.
http://www.franzenint.com/?product=14071407-automatic-locking-drawbolt-large-flush
http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/CoyoteChris303/library/Latches?sort=3&page=1

Photobucket is being *****y but go to the link and you will see the pics...

I have corrected the sourse. The old one dried up. I put the new one in the post.
http://www.franzenint.com/?product=14071407-automatic-locking-drawbolt-large-flush

 

[EX Winger]

pHIL, iM DORRY TO SEE MOTHER HONDA HAS RIDDEN INTO YOUR LATCHES ON HER BTOOM!

AFTER ll the good advise here you will most likely use your powers to remove this suggestion!
I it erre mine I would probably use a dkil saw and remove the whol bag system ND REPLce them with GOOD SOFT FAbric or leather system!

Eldon

 

[Phil Tarman]

Eldon, you're right. I won't take your suggestion. I bought external latches to use and that apparently fixed my Honda latches. They're still working just fine.

 

[EX Winger]

Phil,

LOL. That was the answer I expected to hear I sure hope they keep working well for you! Although I never hS aweiou problem with min I was always worried VOUT THEM MiT IS A SHAME THAT MOTHER hONDA didn't come up with AOULUTION THEMSELVS

ELDON

 

[Phil Tarman]

MiT IS A SHAME THAT MOTHER hONDA didn't come up with AOULUTION THEMSELVS

ELDON

Eldon, they did come up with a solution. They quit making the bike. No more problem!

 

[RedLdr1]

Eldon, they did come up with a solution. They quit making the bike. No more problem!

Nothing like the nuclear option I reckon! :wink: I do know I'll probably avoid any bike with fixed luggage in the future.

 

[swingshiftssuck]

The links didn't work for me...I'd like to see the pics.
Thanks.

 

[EX Winger]

well fROM t least 1962 through very recently One MFGR has used basicly its same system of bags with removeable bag lids. My 62 HD hAS THEM AS WELL AS MY 2001& I THINK THAT A SIMILAR ITeM IS STILLAVAILIBLE!

Granted they have had other problems, but their lugge Has been quite good.

Eldon

 

[Warren]

Nothing like the nuclear option I reckon! :wink: I do know I'll probably avoid any bike with fixed luggage in the future.

I like that you get a bike that is not as wide in the rear with the fixed luggage. The NT makes for good lane splitting especially with the small lids..

 

[BigBill]

Anyone have any experience with these?

http://www.motorcycleadventure.com.au/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=878_1068&product_id=3612

I'm in the process of a remodel of my NT...painting the faded plastics, painting the new large panniers to match the factory Red Bloom Metallic, installed a Honda top box, etc.

So, while I'm doing all this, I would like to change out the latch system to something top notch while I have it apart, and while these are a little pricey, if they can be made to work I think they would be the best option...provided they will actually fit.

 

[Phil Tarman]

Bill, they are more than just a little pricey, IMNSHO. They're 56 Australian dollars apiece. Plus shipping from OZ.

 

[Rusty_Iron]

I think they look good, but don't have experience with them. The following Ebay store would ship from Sterling, Virginia

[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hepco-Becker-Latch-Assembly-Lock-Key-For-Case-to-Frame-/281815012221?hash=item419d7bd37d:g:f6wAAOSwa39UuqiU&vxp=mtr[/URL]

Update... search ebay for 281815012221 The url I copy/pasted turned into a VigLink redirect. Sorry.

 

[BigBill]

Thanks for the Ebay link...I assumed I would get them somewhere other than AU, just trying to figure out if they would work first.

I found these from the same seller... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hepco-Becker-Latch-Assembly-Lock-Key-For-Lid-to-Case/272003169295?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D42818%26meid%3D310f47e3136645adab7e07dd1dc0bbf8%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D281815012221

They look promising...sent a couple of questions to the seller, hopefully I could get two latches that are keyed alike.

 

[BigBill]

I have found the US distributor direct, who is actually the seller on Ebay... http://www.motomachines.com/Latches_c_62.html

According to their website, I can indeed get multiple latches keyed alike, so if I can make either of those work, that's what I'll do.

 

[Turbo DV8]

Anyone have any experience with these?

http://www.motorcycleadventure.com.au/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=878_1068&product_id=3612

IF these can be made to work on the NT, I can whole-heartedly endorse their tenacity. I have had a Hepco & Becker top case for 15 years which I used on my CX650 Turbo's, and now also on the NT. At first, I questioned if they would hold up. You see, this H&B latch you've linked to is not used to secure the lid closed on the top case. It is used on the bottom to secure the entire weight of the case, with contents, to the base plate. And that top case, mounted high up on the back of the bike, gets a LOT of up/down banging going on, even more now on the NT, with it's over-sprung/over-damped rear end. I've had my CX650 Turbo's down many a dirt, washboard road, for mile after mile of grueling abuse, for 15 years, and eventually I gave up worrying if the latch would last. It outlasted my bikes! So ... IF I were to put latches on my NT lids, these are the ones I would not hesitate to use. Please, if anyone mounts these, let us know.

Currently I am in the process of repairing four broken latch mechanism posts on the left side. I am going to do everything I can to bring the structural rigidity to a level which Honda should have. I used JB Weld Plastic Bonder epoxy to repair the cracked posts, epoxied these back onto the part of the posts still remaining, to retain the original critical post heights. Then, as each posts has "fins" running the entire length of the post to the base, I measured the depth of each fin, cut suitable lengths of all-thread rod in 6-32 and/or 8-32 diameter, minus one millimeter, to assure they do not protrude above the "lands" on each post. Then, after roughing up the surfaces within each fin with a Dremel bit, I embedded each rod, or rods, within each fin with copious amounts of JB Weld Plastic Bonder epoxy. I opted to use all-thread instead of solid because I could envision the bond between threads/epoxy/fins better with threaded rod. I figured to embed the rods in epoxy instead of just epoxy, because it would seem to be less prone to cracking, as a mass of epoxy might. In the end, each post is now a solid mass of epoxy and rod, about 1/2" - 3/4" diameter. Into these, I will drill and tap to the FULL DEPTH of each post, to accept 5 mm threaded rod, which will be epoxied in place, per DirtFlier's recommendation. Having trouble getting a long drill bit, though, to clear the case depth. Then the latch mechanism will be secured to the mounts with a lock nut, instead of the 3/4" long screws Honda used. Each post broke off at the depth of Honda's 3/4" screw. Crazy, Honda. It's all as much work as it sounds, and more, and when that's done, I will be doing it to the right saddlebag as preventative, and also to the lid posts as well. It should be clear that I really want to keep the stock look and latches in place, so I am giving it my best, most time-consuming attention I can. But if it fails at some point, I would go with the H&B latches.

 

[jaebird]

@Turbo DV8: If you can document with pictures, that would be very helpful!

 

[Turbo DV8]

The 5 mm tap instructs to use an 11/64" drill. The closest size I can find in at least six inch length is 3/16" (12/64"). Does anybody know if that extra 1/64" would be OK when tapping, or would the thread be too loose? I'm going to epoxy the threaded rod in anyway.