Damn the bad luck!

[mikesim]

Yesterday, I was relocating the attachment points for the pannier lid tethers on Traveller. The mounting bosses molded into the pannier lid had cracked apart from the self tapping screws. I initially tried to rebuild the bosses using JB Weld but gave up after several attempts to rebuild them in a manner that would last. I then got some stainless hardware #10 machine screws, finish washers and nylock nuts and drilled holes in the pannier sides and attached the tethers in that manner. The screw heads and finish washers are visible but are very unobtrusive and really don't hurt the appearance. The right lid has always been somewhat mor difficult to latch closed and I am just days away from tearing into the latch mechanism and removing it and installing by exterior combination latches. However, when I tried closing the right lid I put pressure on the upper portion of the lid as I always have done and the lid cracked. Damn! The crack is about six inches long from the top of the pannier at an angle downward. Radiating from that crack is another horizontal crack about four inches long. The crack bisects exactly where I was going to locate the combination latch I was going to use. A cursory search of Ebay and OE Honda parts sources revealed that a new lid was unobtanium. I put a search request into a motorcycle salvage yard search tool but I am now looking into plastic welding. It won't look perfect but at 137K miles Traveller has his share of combat wounds so one more won't make any difference.

Mike

 

[DirtFlier]

All of the plastic on our 2010-11 NTs is growing old and brittle!

 

[Yoda]

Old and brittle? Sounds like some of us ‘ol timers!

 

[mikesim]

All of the plastic on our 2010-11 NTs is growing old and brittle!

Indeed! I figured that since I would have the bike down a few days for the rear caliper and master cylinder replacement, I would also take the time for a valve adjustment. As you know, a fair amount of tupperware has to be removed for access. I'm especially concerned about the integrity of the meter cover as it always has been a dickens to get off. Grasping and pulling with trim tools always felt like I was pulling to the breaking point before popping free. I recall that one of the attachment tabs broke off the last time I had the meter cover off for service. I will have to put on my kid gloves for future service.

Mike

 

[ARKNT]

You might try adding some light aluminum behind the crack and bolting or pop riveting to add strength to the patch. I had the bottom of the right pannier crack and put aluminum inside and outside, epoxied and bolted. Yours sounds more difficult. Mine was the bottom where it is flat and not exposed.

Arknt

 

[DirtFlier]

I've never had to remove the meter cover to do a valve clearance check.

 

[Hondafan]

I've never had to remove the meter cover to do a valve clearance check.

Interesting. How did you remove the Phillips side panel screws that are under the dash surround?

 

[Coyote Chris]

Isn't there a plastic repair kit on the market for fairing type plastic? Seems I used it to good effect on my C10 fairing.

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

PlastiFix?

 

[Coyote Chris]

Learn How To Repair a Cracked Motorcycle Fairing

Watch Easy ABS Plastic Repair's video on how to repair a cracked motorcycle fairing. An easy to follow guide is included. Watch now!

easyabsrepair.com

Motorcycle Fairing Repair Kit - ABS - Plastex Plastic Repair Kits | eBay

Plastex is a revolutionary product that makes even difficult repairs quick and easy. Plastex can be sanded and painted and does what other glues and adhesives can't. Only Plastex has a reuseable molding bar that give you the ability reproduce detailed or textured plastic parts quickly and with ease.

www.ebay.com

 

[mikesim]

I've never had to remove the meter cover to do a valve clearance check.

I will check my shop manual once again, but I am almost certain that I had to remove the meter cover.....

Mike

 

[mikesim]

Learn How To Repair a Cracked Motorcycle Fairing

Watch Easy ABS Plastic Repair's video on how to repair a cracked motorcycle fairing. An easy to follow guide is included. Watch now!

easyabsrepair.com

Motorcycle Fairing Repair Kit - ABS - Plastex Plastic Repair Kits | eBay

Plastex is a revolutionary product that makes even difficult repairs quick and easy. Plastex can be sanded and painted and does what other glues and adhesives can't. Only Plastex has a reuseable molding bar that give you the ability reproduce detailed or textured plastic parts quickly and with ease.

www.ebay.com

Since I wrote my first post, I recalled that there was some stuff that works like a miracle in fixing broken plastic. Mr Google led me to Plastex. I ordered a repair kit and will give it a try.

Mike

 

[Tenmilsocket]

I had cracked the tail cowl on my '94 CB1000 when it tipped over into one of its stablemates. I stitched up the crack with a plastic welder:



I did it from the backside and the hard part is pushing it in hard enough to melt into the abs without causing a ridge on the outside:



In this case there had been some distortion in the plastic so I made a paste of ABS by drilling holes in a sheet and melting the ribbons in MEK:



I used the paste like bondo and then sanded and primed that spot and repainted the entire cowl:

 

[charlie]

Try David Silver Spares in U K (google for details) I purchased a Right Side Lid approx sis months ago from them.
Cost me an arm and a leg, However beggars can’t be Choosers !

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

If it's ABS, you can solvent weld it using acetone. If it's HDPE, hot welding is your best option.

 

[mikesim]

I've never had to remove the meter cover to do a valve clearance check.

I will check my shop manual once again, but I am almost certain that I had to remove the meter cover.....

Mike

As always, my remembery was faulty. You are correct, Tosh! The manual doesn't indicate that the meter cover need be removed. I must have removed it for another service that I performed at the same time, perhaps servicing the cooling system. Since the tupperware removal is such a PITA I try to consolidate at my major stuff at the same time.

Mike

 

[mikesim]

My line of attack this weekend on the broken pannier lid will be to stitch up the crack on the inside with a hot welder. Then, I will apply the plastex along the length of the crack on the inside. Finally, the combination latch that I am installing will straddle the crack on the upper lid. It will be reinforced on the underside with an aluminum plate. The latch assembly will be pop riveted in place. If all goes well, only a hairline crack will be visible on the exterior of the pannier.

Mike

 

[WVRider]

Old and brittle? Sounds like some of us ‘ol timers!

Hey wait a minute ! I resemble that remark !

 

[mikesim]

I feel brittler by the day <sigh>...
Mike

 

[Coyote Chris]

My line of attack this weekend on the broken pannier lid will be to stitch up the crack on the inside with a hot welder. Then, I will apply the plastex along the length of the crack on the inside. Finally, the combination latch that I am installing will straddle the crack on the upper lid. It will be reinforced on the underside with an aluminum plate. The latch assembly will be pop riveted in place. If all goes well, only a hairline crack will be visible on the exterior of the pannier.

Mike

Go for it!

I feel brittler by the day <sigh>...
Mike