When I had troubles, the computer said it was a "low-voltage indication at the throttle position indicator sensor." Or something like that. My dealer ended up replacing the TPI and the regulator/rectifier. No problems since.
I can't find the TPS on the parts fiche. If you'd post the part number when you get the paperwork, I'd appreciate it and the info might be useful to others.He is going to order a throttle positioning sensor (I think?).
It's piece 5 on the the Throttle Body diagram. 16430-MEW-921. It is the only electrical part on the the throttle body other than the injectors. And it looks like all the other Honda TPS's in a search of Google images...so it must be the the throttle position sensor. Parts fiche calls it a "motor assy"?I can't find the TPS on the parts fiche. If you'd post the part number when you get the paperwork, I'd appreciate it and the info might be useful to others.
Part #5 is the idle air control motor, not the TPS. The idle air control motor is a servo motor controlled by the ECM that controls an air valve in the throttle body. The air valve responds to ECM commands to open/close thus letting in more/less air (circumenventing the throttle plate) to maintain a stable idle. From my understanding in reading the FSM, the TPS is not sold separately, is not adjustable and if it must be replaced is serviced as part of the entire throttle body assembly... not cheap by any means. This arrangement is NOT one of Honda's better ideas, IMHO. I'm hopeful that at some point in time and aftermarket solution with become available that does require one to go to that expense.It's piece 5 on the the Throttle Body diagram. 16430-MEW-921. It is the only electrical part on the the throttle body other than the injectors. And it looks like all the other Honda TPS's in a search of Google images...so it must be the the throttle position sensor. Parts fiche calls it a "motor assy"?
Yeah, that's pretty much what I figured. That's why I'm hoping Kevin will let us know what the paperwork says when he gets it back. Should make it clear.From my understanding in reading the FSM, the TPS is not sold separately, is not adjustable and if it must be replaced is serviced as part of the entire throttle body assembly... not cheap by any means.
Mike
Which lightbulb went on? Was it the yellow Maintenance Indicating Light (MIL)?When driving in stop and go traffic I'd get times when the throttle would die for a portion of a second then surge back on. Kind of like riding the bucking bronco. At first it was only pronounced in stop and go traffic, then it started occurring more just during normal driving. The situation is like this: Imagine a line somewhere on the tach--not always the same place but most often bringing up revs from about 2,800 to about 3,250 RPMs. And when you cross that line the gas shuts off briefly and sputters, then when you hit the high end of the range everything smooths out like butter. Yes, I have the nice new NGK spark plug caps. Occasionally when this happened I could stop and restart the engine--key all the way off--and the symptoms would go away for a while. Very hard to figure out what the problem is because it is so sporadic. Today the lightbulb went on. Or off maybe. I noticed that the bike was riding OK until the fan for the radiator came on. I started revving the engine at a stop light slowly building and watching it hang up at about 2,800 RPM. However when I was doing this the neutral light was flickering.
If you are getting MIL coming on, even intermittently, the fault code can be read without taking to a dealer and without any special reader tool. All you need is a short wire. The method is described in Read & Reset MIL.Still having my engine problem--getting worse now. Going to have to break down and let the deal put their computer on it. Really wish I had a reader of my own, or that it would be compatible with a car OBD II.