When I had troubles, the computer said it was a "low-voltage indication at the throttle position indicator sensor." Or something like that. My dealer ended up replacing the TPI and the regulator/rectifier. No problems since.
If there is no load on the engine, it doesn't hesitate, although it will sometimes die when coasting to a stop with the clutch pulled in.
At least now my mechanic has experienced the problem, too. He took it for a ride today, and fortunately (I guess) it acted up for him, too. He is going to order a throttle positioning sensor (I think?). At least he knows what it is doing. Ran really good when I drove it to the shop yesterday morning, and really bad when I drove it home tonight.
At least now my mechanic has experienced the problem, too. He took it for a ride today, and fortunately (I guess) it acted up for him, too. He is going to order a throttle positioning sensor (I think?). At least he knows what it is doing. Ran really good when I drove it to the shop yesterday morning, and really bad when I drove it home tonight.
Socrates
Guest
The throttle position sensor (tps) is basically a potentiometer connected to the throttle. As you open and close the throttle, the resistance in the tps changes, sending a signal to the engine management computer which then calculates how far open the throttle is and, hence, how much fuel to inject. I also have a BMW oilhead; adjusting the tps on that can eliminate "surging". I have never seen anything similar for the NT, though my guess is that the symptoms described in this thread could well be attributable to a dodgy tps, or its wiring. On a BMW you can test whether or not the tps is working properly by connecting a multimeter set to ohms and then opening and closing the throttle. An analague multimeter must be used (i.e. one with a needle) so that the movement can be seen to be smooth as the throttle is opened and closed. It should be possible to do the same with the tps on the NT.
bicyclist
Guest
I can't find the TPS on the parts fiche. If you'd post the part number when you get the paperwork, I'd appreciate it and the info might be useful to others.
It's piece 5 on the the Throttle Body diagram. 16430-MEW-921. It is the only electrical part on the the throttle body other than the injectors. And it looks like all the other Honda TPS's in a search of Google images...so it must be the the throttle position sensor. Parts fiche calls it a "motor assy"?
Thanks, Dan! I wondered if that might not be it, but had no idea what a TPS looked like.
mikesim
Site Supporter
Part #5 is the idle air control motor, not the TPS. The idle air control motor is a servo motor controlled by the ECM that controls an air valve in the throttle body. The air valve responds to ECM commands to open/close thus letting in more/less air (circumenventing the throttle plate) to maintain a stable idle. From my understanding in reading the FSM, the TPS is not sold separately, is not adjustable and if it must be replaced is serviced as part of the entire throttle body assembly... not cheap by any means. This arrangement is NOT one of Honda's better ideas, IMHO. I'm hopeful that at some point in time and aftermarket solution with become available that does require one to go to that expense.
Mike
bicyclist
Guest
Yeah, that's pretty much what I figured. That's why I'm hoping Kevin will let us know what the paperwork says when he gets it back. Should make it clear.
Thanks Mike. So a new throttle body is $565-815, and that is whats needed to replace a TPS. Wow.
Hope my TPS never quits on me, no long term warranty. I hope Honda brings the NT back just so 10 years from now there may be more parts motorcycles to pick apart for less money.
Hope my TPS never quits on me, no long term warranty. I hope Honda brings the NT back just so 10 years from now there may be more parts motorcycles to pick apart for less money.
I've been out of the country the last week, so I left my NT in with the dealer and I hope to pick it up tomorrow. I'll share what i find out.
I was in Austria and Germany for a week. I looked for Deauvilles, but didn't see any. I found a couple of Trans Alps and a Varadero, though.
Kevin
I was in Austria and Germany for a week. I looked for Deauvilles, but didn't see any. I found a couple of Trans Alps and a Varadero, though.
Kevin
mikesim
Site Supporter
There has been some scuttlebutt on the UK Deauville website about the availability of a TPS for the Deau/NT as an aftermarket item, but I haven't seen confirmation of that. I hope it is true. Replacing the entire throttle body for just a failed TPS is utterly ridiculous.
Mike
Mike
Just talked to my mechanic today. He said they have identified the problem as a bad MAP (manifold air pressure) sensor. Still waiting for parts though, so I can't ride yet. The good news is that he said it was covered under an emissions warranty, so I won't have to pay anything. Hopefully this will all be taken care of by Wednesday.
That's what I know today.
Kevin
That's what I know today.
Kevin
Sounds like good news, Kevin. We'll keep our fingers crossed for you.
No joy. Got the bike back today after they replaced the MAP sensor. The mechanic said he rode it and it ran fine. I took off for home and didn't get a 1/4 mile away before it started hesitating. I'll be calling them tomorrow to see what they want to try next. At least it didn't cost me anything...yet.
Kevin
Kevin
Kevin,
At least the fault is coming in frequenly, makes finding the problem easier. Sure would think that the Honda shop would run it several times before having you "come and get your fixed NT" only to have to return it again.
I would think most sensors failing, even intermittently, would leave a code associated with it. So it may be main power distribution, for example fuse block & fuse contacts, connectors, kill switch, ignition switch contacts, ECM, or the dreaded interconnecting wiring. There are so many faults that it could be. Sorry it is happening to you, and I'm glad I'm not the shop trying to find it. No service manual can cover all problems either.
Just me thinking:
Cycle the kill switch several times (not while riding, of coarse).
Pull fuses-reinstall fuses.
Disconnect connectors, reconnect connectors when you can get to them.
Jiggle the ignition key (just a little, without endangering yourself) when it is running OK to see if it starts acting up.
At least the fault is coming in frequenly, makes finding the problem easier. Sure would think that the Honda shop would run it several times before having you "come and get your fixed NT" only to have to return it again.
I would think most sensors failing, even intermittently, would leave a code associated with it. So it may be main power distribution, for example fuse block & fuse contacts, connectors, kill switch, ignition switch contacts, ECM, or the dreaded interconnecting wiring. There are so many faults that it could be. Sorry it is happening to you, and I'm glad I'm not the shop trying to find it. No service manual can cover all problems either.
Just me thinking:
Cycle the kill switch several times (not while riding, of coarse).
Pull fuses-reinstall fuses.
Disconnect connectors, reconnect connectors when you can get to them.
Jiggle the ignition key (just a little, without endangering yourself) when it is running OK to see if it starts acting up.
Kevin,
Suggest to your tech or shop forman tjust hunmor you on this suggesion , get them to eliminate or by pass the side stand kill switch. I had a similar problem to yours on a 99 KLR, shop tried everyting including swapping pars from anothe bike and nothing worke. I was inKLR forum and discovered the side stand switch mod / problemcure, printed it out and carried it into shop forman and ask him to do it, He gruddingly said ok, BUTT BE VERY CAREFUL , He did it himselfe and didn' write a service order on it so there was o record of it. I took it out and rode it, NO MORE problemsand tha was going on four years ago. I know this is a whole differnt bike , but after reading this whole 7 page discussion it sounded like my KLR problem all over again. I initially thought it was carburation or crud in fuel tank or condensation in gs tank, or gas that was going badwith ethonol garbage in it. but whole fuel system had ben cleaned ec and problem was still there, also most all of the electical boxes had been changed out with no results.
Suggest to your tech or shop forman tjust hunmor you on this suggesion , get them to eliminate or by pass the side stand kill switch. I had a similar problem to yours on a 99 KLR, shop tried everyting including swapping pars from anothe bike and nothing worke. I was inKLR forum and discovered the side stand switch mod / problemcure, printed it out and carried it into shop forman and ask him to do it, He gruddingly said ok, BUTT BE VERY CAREFUL , He did it himselfe and didn' write a service order on it so there was o record of it. I took it out and rode it, NO MORE problemsand tha was going on four years ago. I know this is a whole differnt bike , but after reading this whole 7 page discussion it sounded like my KLR problem all over again. I initially thought it was carburation or crud in fuel tank or condensation in gs tank, or gas that was going badwith ethonol garbage in it. but whole fuel system had ben cleaned ec and problem was still there, also most all of the electical boxes had been changed out with no results.
chillman
Guest
Good day friends.
Sorry to resurrect an old thread.
My name is Chris, and I too have a problem.
When driving in stop and go traffic I'd get times when the throttle would die for a portion of a second then surge back on. Kind of like riding the bucking bronco. At first it was only pronounced in stop and go traffic, then it started occurring more just during normal driving. The situation is like this: Imagine a line somewhere on the tach--not always the same place but most often bringing up revs from about 2,800 to about 3,250 RPMs. And when you cross that line the gas shuts off briefly and sputters, then when you hit the high end of the range everything smooths out like butter. Yes, I have the nice new NGK spark plug caps. Occasionally when this happened I could stop and restart the engine--key all the way off--and the symptoms would go away for a while. Very hard to figure out what the problem is because it is so sporadic. Today the lightbulb went on. Or off maybe. I noticed that the bike was riding OK until the fan for the radiator came on. I started revving the engine at a stop light slowly building and watching it hang up at about 2,800 RPM. However when I was doing this the neutral light was flickering. Stopped at Advance Auto and asked them to test the battery. Battery has a dead cell. I haven't fixed anything yet, but I think I have the answer. Now, which battery to choose? I have 65,000 miles on the bike, she is a 2010 model, and perhaps it is time.
Sorry to resurrect an old thread.
My name is Chris, and I too have a problem.
When driving in stop and go traffic I'd get times when the throttle would die for a portion of a second then surge back on. Kind of like riding the bucking bronco. At first it was only pronounced in stop and go traffic, then it started occurring more just during normal driving. The situation is like this: Imagine a line somewhere on the tach--not always the same place but most often bringing up revs from about 2,800 to about 3,250 RPMs. And when you cross that line the gas shuts off briefly and sputters, then when you hit the high end of the range everything smooths out like butter. Yes, I have the nice new NGK spark plug caps. Occasionally when this happened I could stop and restart the engine--key all the way off--and the symptoms would go away for a while. Very hard to figure out what the problem is because it is so sporadic. Today the lightbulb went on. Or off maybe. I noticed that the bike was riding OK until the fan for the radiator came on. I started revving the engine at a stop light slowly building and watching it hang up at about 2,800 RPM. However when I was doing this the neutral light was flickering. Stopped at Advance Auto and asked them to test the battery. Battery has a dead cell. I haven't fixed anything yet, but I think I have the answer. Now, which battery to choose? I have 65,000 miles on the bike, she is a 2010 model, and perhaps it is time.
I had symptoms like that on my ST1300. It seemed to happen when the tank was less ten 1/4 full and the air temp was above 85 to 90 degrees. It turned out to be a fuel pump over heating and failing. The fuel in the tank is what cools the pump. Just another possibility.
Which lightbulb went on? Was it the yellow Maintenance Indicating Light (MIL)?
The fuel injection/ ignition electronics have a fail safe for some faults and will cause the engine to only rev to a certain rpm. It would be expected to receive a MIL during the time that the fault is present, although if is a fast flash of a fault that self corrects quickly a rider may not notice the MIL every time.
If you are getting MIL coming on, even intermittently, the fault code can be read without taking to a dealer and without any special reader tool. All you need is a short wire. The method is described in Read & Reset MIL.
I doubt that your problem is a serious engine problem, but is most likely a loose connector, possibly a connector related to the neutral switch (among other sensors).