Warren
2
I saw it at the moto show in January. It looked sharp.
Some farkles are bike specific, some are generic. Of the generic ones, all the ones I like, I already own. I am a good customer of theirs.
The bike specific ones, like crash bars, I don't know if I will buy. I am thinking I prefer to keep the bike light for now and risk scratching it in drops.
K
You have had enough bikes to know the ins and outs of adding farkles. I bought a few that I have yet to install on my NT. Sometimes simpler is better.
Katherine,
Have fun on the new ride.
You write such great reviews, I can't wait to hear about your experiences with the DCT.
Waaay back in the early 70's, my first bike was a Honda Z 50. It was a 3 speed semi-automatic. Translation-no clutch with manual left foot shifting. As a youngster, I recall occasionally seeing how fast I could shift through all 3 gears. If memory serves me right, it was about 5 ft. on a level surface. I wouldn't try that today. Anyway, the idea of shifting without a clutch seems so foreign to me today that I would probably install a "fake" clutch to support the muscle memory effect.
Have fun on the new ride.
You write such great reviews, I can't wait to hear about your experiences with the DCT.
Waaay back in the early 70's, my first bike was a Honda Z 50. It was a 3 speed semi-automatic. Translation-no clutch with manual left foot shifting. As a youngster, I recall occasionally seeing how fast I could shift through all 3 gears. If memory serves me right, it was about 5 ft. on a level surface. I wouldn't try that today. Anyway, the idea of shifting without a clutch seems so foreign to me today that I would probably install a "fake" clutch to support the muscle memory effect.
coaster
0
You got drop foot. I have drop foot, mine was a result of a arterial blood clot on the right leg below the knee.
Keep the group informed on your impressions of the NC700.
The NC700 is very interesting, but I am hoping that Honda will eventually bring the NC750D Integra to the USA. It has better weather protection, but with the same efficient engine and DCT transmission as the NC700. Maybe after all the Silverwings are cleared out of inventory?
Looks like it could be a great replacement for the NT, with even better fuel economy. Long as you don't mind a chain.
Looks like it could be a great replacement for the NT, with even better fuel economy. Long as you don't mind a chain.
Congrats on the new bike. I have sat on 3 different NC700s at dealers. If it would have been available when I moved up from my first bike to get the NT it would have been on the short list. I love the idea of a light nimble bike with enough integrated storage to hold my helmet. Even though I have more storage on both my current bikes, I usually just need a place to stow the helmet when not riding.
I still can't shake the Super Tenere lust though. I think it would fit me better than the NT (36" inseam). I am getting ready to list my house for sale and hopefully move, so I have to wait until then and see if I have any money left before I pick up a S10. It is easy to hold off since the only ones at local dealers are the matte grey. My DR is Matte grey and I don't think I will ever buy another matte grey bike. Blue or white S10 for me please.
I still can't shake the Super Tenere lust though. I think it would fit me better than the NT (36" inseam). I am getting ready to list my house for sale and hopefully move, so I have to wait until then and see if I have any money left before I pick up a S10. It is easy to hold off since the only ones at local dealers are the matte grey. My DR is Matte grey and I don't think I will ever buy another matte grey bike. Blue or white S10 for me please.
OP
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elizilla
Guest
I can't let go of the Super10, despite the foot trouble. I'm considering installing a Kliktronic shifter. This is a farkle that has a solenoid operated plunger that goes to the shift lever, controlled by push buttons on the grip.
But the shifter isn't the only thing making the Super10 difficult - the weirdness in my left foot/leg makes it awkward to stand on that foot while swinging my right leg over the bike. The Super10's passenger seat sticks up so high, that getting a leg over is hard; I feel like my left ankle's going to collapse when I am swinging that leg. The bike is designed to allow the passenger seat to be removed and what's under it to be used as an enlarged rear rack. I am going to just take the passenger seat off and not put anything on that extended rack. That will make it easier to get a leg over. I'm not strong enough to carry a passenger anyway, so they don't need a seat. I think I will also remove the giant crash bars I installed two years ago, because they are so heavy and I'll be happier with less weight. Different trade offs. Why carry all that extra weight all the time, and raise my risk of dropping the bike, to protect the plastic? Plastic is replaceable and if the bike feels better without the weight, I'll take the feeling better. Also, my sweetie wants to ride the Super10 sometimes, and he's not as long legged as I am, so I have ordered some lowering links. Even though I flat foot the bike easily as stock, I think I too will be better off with a little less height. The links will drop it 3/4".
Life goes on.
In other garage news, yesterday we replaced the battery in my Ural. That is a heck of a project - you have to remove the starter and loosen the airbox to get access to pull the battery out. But it is done and the bike cranks. The old battery was dated 2007, and I hope the new one lasts as long, since I'm not anxious to do this again.
The NC700X needs more wire! You guys know how I am. I have been surfing the NC forum looking for plastic removal instructions but I guess I will have to bite the bullet and take the cellophane off my new NC shop manual.
The 1971 Triumph project bike runs. Kinda. It's off the table lift now, so the NC can go up. I have been ordering more farkles, though I do already have a lot of farkles already here. No crash bars or luggage racks just yet, and I'll wait to choose a windshield, until I have actually had the bike up to speed. But I don't have any aux fuse panels on hand, so I ordered a new Fuzeblock for it.
But the shifter isn't the only thing making the Super10 difficult - the weirdness in my left foot/leg makes it awkward to stand on that foot while swinging my right leg over the bike. The Super10's passenger seat sticks up so high, that getting a leg over is hard; I feel like my left ankle's going to collapse when I am swinging that leg. The bike is designed to allow the passenger seat to be removed and what's under it to be used as an enlarged rear rack. I am going to just take the passenger seat off and not put anything on that extended rack. That will make it easier to get a leg over. I'm not strong enough to carry a passenger anyway, so they don't need a seat. I think I will also remove the giant crash bars I installed two years ago, because they are so heavy and I'll be happier with less weight. Different trade offs. Why carry all that extra weight all the time, and raise my risk of dropping the bike, to protect the plastic? Plastic is replaceable and if the bike feels better without the weight, I'll take the feeling better. Also, my sweetie wants to ride the Super10 sometimes, and he's not as long legged as I am, so I have ordered some lowering links. Even though I flat foot the bike easily as stock, I think I too will be better off with a little less height. The links will drop it 3/4".
Life goes on.
In other garage news, yesterday we replaced the battery in my Ural. That is a heck of a project - you have to remove the starter and loosen the airbox to get access to pull the battery out. But it is done and the bike cranks. The old battery was dated 2007, and I hope the new one lasts as long, since I'm not anxious to do this again.
The NC700X needs more wire! You guys know how I am. I have been surfing the NC forum looking for plastic removal instructions but I guess I will have to bite the bullet and take the cellophane off my new NC shop manual.
The 1971 Triumph project bike runs. Kinda. It's off the table lift now, so the NC can go up. I have been ordering more farkles, though I do already have a lot of farkles already here. No crash bars or luggage racks just yet, and I'll wait to choose a windshield, until I have actually had the bike up to speed. But I don't have any aux fuse panels on hand, so I ordered a new Fuzeblock for it.
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Katherine, I have a different issue about getting on the bike than you do. My right knee doesn't bend enough to get it over the bike. My "strategy" for getting on is to stand beside the bike, toward the rear of the saddle, and then swing my right leg up so that I can get my right foot above and over the saddle. Then I "gracefully" hop/wiggle/slide toward the front of the bike till I can get my right leg down to the footpeg. Then I lift the bike and away I go.
Getting off the bike, after I put the sidestand down, I wiggle/hop/slide to my left till my right calf is on top of the saddle. Then, for some reason unknown even to me, I stop and stand there for 30-or-so seconds before lifting my right leg off the bike.
During that time I'm standing there, people are rushing to "help," thinking that I'm stuck or am about to kick the bike over to the right. I get some offers of help while I'm getting on, but not as many since I don't just stand there while getting on.
I get tired of all the help offers and the evident terror on bystander's faces as they see a cripple about to ride a motorcycle for heaven's sake!, but the contortions do keep me riding and that's worth the hassle.
Good luck with the new bike. Oh, how high will the ST's saddle be after you lower it? I really like those bikes, but they're too tall for me.
Getting off the bike, after I put the sidestand down, I wiggle/hop/slide to my left till my right calf is on top of the saddle. Then, for some reason unknown even to me, I stop and stand there for 30-or-so seconds before lifting my right leg off the bike.
During that time I'm standing there, people are rushing to "help," thinking that I'm stuck or am about to kick the bike over to the right. I get some offers of help while I'm getting on, but not as many since I don't just stand there while getting on.
I get tired of all the help offers and the evident terror on bystander's faces as they see a cripple about to ride a motorcycle for heaven's sake!, but the contortions do keep me riding and that's worth the hassle.
Good luck with the new bike. Oh, how high will the ST's saddle be after you lower it? I really like those bikes, but they're too tall for me.
OP
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elizilla
Guest
I don't know the official seat height of the Super10. That's kind of a bogus number anyway, since once you put weight on the seat it gets lower, and how much lower it gets, depends on how heavy the rider is. Plus the Super10 has a seat that can be set at two different heights. But the lowering links will drop the rear by 3/4". If I raise the forks in the triple tree to match, that will drop the seat by 3/4". I will probably still run with the seat in the high position, because that is more comfortable for me. My sweetie will probably choose the low seat height when he rides it. The seat can be moved from one height to the other, in seconds, without tools, it's not like some seat height adjusters that require swapping out parts.
bicyclist
Guest
His name is Lee. He's a nice guy and would be happy to help you out with info. We pm'd back and forth and I met him at the Finger Lakes Rally and got a good look at his NC. He's a long time BMW rider and quite pleased with the Honda.
I think it's an interesting bike and is on my short list. It's 100 lbs lighter than the NT. Appears to be easier to work on. I like the frunk and the fuel mileage. Don't like the small fuel tank. I could modify the bike to suit my preferences fairly easily.
If I had a Ural, I'd put a car battery in the sidecar. Easy maintenance and weights the hack when no one is aboard.
kenstone
Guest
"But the shifter isn't the only thing making the Super10 difficult - the weirdness in my left foot/leg makes it awkward to stand on that foot while swinging my right leg over the bike"
Have you considered installing a floorboard/platform to replace the foot peg?
Also with a heel/toe type shift lever, the need to pull up to shift up..or pushing down to shift down, whichever direction is a problem, could be eliminated.
just sayin'
Ken
Have you considered installing a floorboard/platform to replace the foot peg?
Also with a heel/toe type shift lever, the need to pull up to shift up..or pushing down to shift down, whichever direction is a problem, could be eliminated.
just sayin'
Ken
OP
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elizilla
Guest
It's the pulling up that is the biggest problem, but the foot is also kinda stupid, the nerves tell me things that just aren't true, so I sometimes have to look at it to know what it is doing.
The Ural, stock, has a heel shifter, and I tried to use it to work around this problem, before I put the hand shifter on. I couldn't do it without looking at my foot. But I think that might just be the layout of the Ural's heel shifter; it is obscured by the kick start which is practically on top of it. It's awkward and so am I. Maybe a heel shifter would work on the Super10 if it were better designed. It's an interesting idea! I will consider it when I get the bike out in spring. Right now it's stuffed into the downstairs garage, which is buried under snowbanks.
Before I reach out to Lee, I will try to RTFM, so I'm not just helplessly flailing. As a tech support person, I like to see people actually try, before they squawk to someone else for help. I haven't tried sufficiently yet.
The Ural, stock, has a heel shifter, and I tried to use it to work around this problem, before I put the hand shifter on. I couldn't do it without looking at my foot. But I think that might just be the layout of the Ural's heel shifter; it is obscured by the kick start which is practically on top of it. It's awkward and so am I. Maybe a heel shifter would work on the Super10 if it were better designed. It's an interesting idea! I will consider it when I get the bike out in spring. Right now it's stuffed into the downstairs garage, which is buried under snowbanks.
Before I reach out to Lee, I will try to RTFM, so I'm not just helplessly flailing. As a tech support person, I like to see people actually try, before they squawk to someone else for help. I haven't tried sufficiently yet.
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Bob
Guest
I'd like honda to put a fairing like on the Integra on a version of the NC750! Congrats on the new bike!
kenstone
Guest
I know a rear/heel type lever could be designed as a bolt-on or weld-on (to the stock shifter) and configured for the best use for not a lot of expense by the right person.
I find it much easier to straddle a bike by standing on the left peg before throwing my leg over...kind of like mounting a horse:redface:
I find it much easier to straddle a bike by standing on the left peg before throwing my leg over...kind of like mounting a horse:redface:
In the old days I put a heel shifter on my CB500-4. That was in my Army days when I wore spit shined boots to work. A toe shifter would ruin the shine.
So, I got a piece of 3/8" steel rod and brazed a tab on it to be held by the bolt on the shift lever. The rod went forward and was bent so that it went through a hold I drilled in the shift lever. The rear section was bent to go just behind the heel of the boot when at rest. When I wanted to shift I'd move the boot back, shift, then move it forward again. Down shifting was as normal.
Geometry of such a rig could be done in any number of ways.
But............
Given it is 2014 and we have all these wonderful electronic gadgets, I'd find a way to do all of it electronically. Pushbutton shifting.
Or...........change the brakes to a fully linked system through the hand lever only and put the shift lever under the right foot.
Good luck with the mods, whichever way you go with it.
So, I got a piece of 3/8" steel rod and brazed a tab on it to be held by the bolt on the shift lever. The rod went forward and was bent so that it went through a hold I drilled in the shift lever. The rear section was bent to go just behind the heel of the boot when at rest. When I wanted to shift I'd move the boot back, shift, then move it forward again. Down shifting was as normal.
Geometry of such a rig could be done in any number of ways.
But............
Given it is 2014 and we have all these wonderful electronic gadgets, I'd find a way to do all of it electronically. Pushbutton shifting.
Or...........change the brakes to a fully linked system through the hand lever only and put the shift lever under the right foot.
Good luck with the mods, whichever way you go with it.
As "universal" as a lot of Honda parts are I wouldn't be to surprised if a heel and toe shifter off one of the cruiser models fit the NC. You could even see if the Wing floor boards work on the NC like they do on the NT....:smile:
[...I wouldn't be to surprised if a heel and toe shifter off one of the cruiser models fit the NC...]
It's possible but my guess is that the "tail" portion of the shifter may be too long for a bike with upright seating position. On cruisers, the controls are forward mounted so they have lots of space.
It's possible but my guess is that the "tail" portion of the shifter may be too long for a bike with upright seating position. On cruisers, the controls are forward mounted so they have lots of space.
kenstone
Guest
I knew the depth of experience here would come up with alternatives, both new tech and old's cool:wink:
And a jockey shifter would be different too, on the left with the clutch lever mounted on it, or linkaged to the right side with a half dozen hyme joints
Ken
And a jockey shifter would be different too, on the left with the clutch lever mounted on it, or linkaged to the right side with a half dozen hyme joints
Ken
If it is too long installed when installed correctly "reversing it" by a 180? might be an option since one side is usually longer. I haven't run across any with a tapered shaft or anything that would keep you from turning it around so the "normal" rear would be in the front... If you used a two piece set up like on my Tri-Glide you could try different front and rear parts off different models for a "custom" fit!:wink: