First ride on my new NC700X

Hey Don, long time no see! If we run into each other again sometime I will certainly let you try it.
 
I actually already have the Pro-Oiler. I ran it on my VFR, and the guy I sold the VFR to didn't want it, so I kept it. I'm going to clean it up and put it on the NC.

What are the pros/cons on the Scottoiler vs Pro-Oiler? I'm looking to put one on my Scrambler and then my wife's CTX700.

BTW: Honda doesn't sell a centerstand for the CTX but it's basically the same frame/engine as the NC700 just shorter. I was able to get a centerstand for the NC700S (scooter version) from Japan at a reasonable price and it bolts right on.
 
What are the pros/cons on the Scottoiler vs Pro-Oiler? I'm looking to put one on my Scrambler and then my wife's CTX700.

I like both the Scottoiler and the Pro-Oiler. They both have the smaller tubing that makes all the difference to priming the oiler and keeping it from losing its prime. They were both kind of a pain to install.

The Scottoiler has to attach to a vacuum port, just one of the ports you would use for synching the carbs. I have had FI bikes that have ports for throttle body synch, but not all do. (The NT doesn't - but it doesn't have a chain either.) The Pro-Oiler either taps the speedometer sensor, or you can use a magnet and pickup. I tapped the speedo wire on my VFR with a posi-tap. Then you have a little console to program it. It took me the longest to get it working right, of any of the oilers I installed, but once it was set up it worked perfectly without me having to do anything, for longer than any of the others I tried. But it was quite a troublesome project to get it going - as I recall, the installation and troubleshooting guide was about 50 pages. The Pro-Oiler had more range of adjustment, which is good because the amount of oil you want to feed is really very small. I was able to keep my chain perfect for 10,000 miles using about 1/5 quart of regular engine oil. The oil that dripped from it was black as tar, while the chain stayed immaculate. The Scottoiler used about five times as much oil and made more mess in the garage, but also kept the chain perfect. The biggest trouble I had during the time I used the ScottOiler, was when I let it run dry, it was super hard to get it primed and running again. It requires vacuum to prime it and you get no vacuum when the engine isn't running. So once you get it going, make sure you fill it BEFORE it runs dry. :)

Anyway, I would use either of these oilers again. They both did the job quite well, and they cost about the same.
 
Thanks, Elzilla. I've had a ScottOiler on order from Twisted Throttle but it's been back-ordered for a month and they just informed me it'll be at least another three weeks so I can still cancel it.

Is the Pro-Oiler only available from England? I have read many posts about how hard it is to get programmed but once set there's no more fiddling.
 
Gosh, it was years ago that I ordered it. I want to say it came from the continent somewhere, priced in Euros and direct from the small company that makes them. I think I paid for it with paypal. But it was so long ago that I hardly remember. If they are still making it, I bet they have more of a dealer network. Perhaps the device itself has been updated too.
 
In another century, Hondas had a chain oiler that dispensed engine oil from/thru the counter shaft sprocket, with a screw adjustment for oil flow.
Shutting it OFF was the 1st thing you did when getting a new bike .

Although I don't own/ride a chain bike anymore , I've used/tried many wonderlubes in the past, and most I ride with now use the same lube on their modern O-ring chains.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-11-oz/16672659

When we tour, the 1st thing the chain guys do when we stop for the night is put their bike on the center stand and break this stuff out for a sprits on the warm chain, once around on each side, in the O-ring area.
I use it too...to lube other stuff
Ken
 
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I liked the old Honda enclosed chain guards that they once used. My Cub 50 had one and the chain stayed clean a long time and you had to oil it less frequently. In those days everyone had some homemade solution they used to lube their chains from melted paraffin to gear oil and who knows what else. Not as many dedicated lubes in aerosol cans like we have now.
 
I liked the old Honda enclosed chain guards that they once used.

Another great idea dispatched to the dustbin of history along with functional fenders. Imagine how well enclosed chain guards would work with modern o-ring chains.
 
In another century, Hondas had a chain oiler that dispensed engine oil from/thru the counter shaft sprocket, with a screw adjustment for oil flow.
Shutting it OFF was the 1st thing you did when getting a new bike .

Although I don't own/ride a chain bike anymore , I've used/tried many wonderlubes in the past, and most I ride with now use the same lube on their modern O-ring chains.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-11-oz/16672659

When we tour, the 1st thing the chain guys do when we stop for the night is put their bike on the center stand and break this stuff out for a sprits on the warm chain, once around on each side, in the O-ring area.
I use it too...to lube other stuff
Ken


I have used the one linked and the dupont teflon spray in the light blue can. I found them both to work better than "chain wax" and other chain sprays, but I prefer the blue can version. It seems to stick to the chain longer and needed a little less frequently. On my big trip last summer, I didn't even use it every night. I only lubed the chain about every 3 days or ~1,000 miles. I didn't run into any rain and did very little off asphalt stuff, so the chain stayed pretty clean for the whole trip.

I might have done it a little more frequently if I had the centerstand installed. I have an SW-motech centerstand for the DR, but it isn't compatible with the peg lowers I choose. The trip was long enough that leg comfort is more important than chain maintenance ease. So in order to lube the chain I have to prop up the rear wheel. During the trip I used pieces of firewood, stones, and other creative "found" tools. Outside Yosemite park the little village Amoco gas station had a motorcycle stand and let me use it for free. Despite only lubing the chain about every 1,000 miles, it shows no unusual wear and looks great. I am sold on the Dupont Teflon stuff.
 
You can lube the chain with a small bike rocked up and balanced on the SIDE stand, motor running, and kick the shifter into 1st gear...a skill that needs to be practiced/developed:smile:
Or buy/make something like this:
http://www.endurostar.com/ts2_instr.htm

Ken

Edit: this won't work if you have a kickstand switch:(
 
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I tried the LubeMan oiler as well. I don't think there's anything wrong with the concept, but it was supplied with that terrible aquarium tubing which is large diameter, so it lost its prime every time the bike was parked, and made a gigantic mess in my garage. I replaced it with a HawkeOiler, and that one also had the terrible large aquarium tubing and made a mess without keeping the chain lubed. I think the proper diameter tubing is the true key to making oilers work - all the different methods of metering the oil are just window dressing.
 
But the real reason I came over here was not to talk about oilers. I've been asked to say more about the NC700X, now that I have had it for a couple of months.

First let me say this. The elizilla that covered big miles is gone. Vanished into a world of MRIs and medications and physical therapy and trying not to get exhausted because it takes days to recover. Motorcycling is dangerous enough even if you are strong enough to keep holding the bike up after 15 minutes of stop and go traffic, so I have become a fair weather and nice roads rider, avoiding things that are hard. The last couple motorcycle events I went to, I trailered. Around town I find I prefer to take the Ural, because the parking lots wear me out more than the road does. So even though I have had the NC700X since last winter, I only have a bit over 600 miles on it.

That being said, I love the NC700X. It is comfortable, easy to manage, and the DCT is extremely well sorted. I like the sport mode the best; it shifts a little later, lets the revs get a little higher. This isn't a bike that needs the snot revved out of it but the sport mode is still better. The automatic is even fine at parking lot speeds, though it has taken me a little while to trust it. The only thing I could complain of is that there's an occasional slight lurch when downshifting at around 15mph, which is not normally a problem unless you're not actually slowing to a stop. The one clunky downshift is only noticeable when you are slowing to 15pm for a hairpin and not slowing any further, and even then it's more disconcerting than scary. It's the sort of thing where I might just learn how to stop it happening, over time, and not even notice it anymore.

The NC700X forum is full of whining about the seat, so I thought I'd order the favored upgraded seat from Shad. But it turns out they are a terrible vendor that charges and then waits forever to ship, and after two months of waiting I canceled the order. I'm just as glad because frankly now that I have had two days with as much seat time as my health will likely ever let me get, and I had no issues whatsoever with the stock seat. Never even gave it a thought. And why spend several hundred bucks on a seat when it isn't needed?

At the end of the day when I am tired, it becomes very difficult to lift my left foot high enough to get it onto the footpeg. I might order lowered footpegs for it. I already know from my NT, that Knight Designs makes nice lower footpegs and they do have an offering for the NC700X, so that is probably what I will get.

The small windshield, well, the bike is very quiet and I don't feel any buffeting with the stock shield. But air blows up from underneath my helmet and dries out my eyeballs. I had this trouble with my VFR as well - it seems that bikes that are quiet and don't buffet, despite having small shields, are prone to this dry eyeball thing. I ordered a CalSci shield, and based on their directions for measuring height I got the medium. This turned out to be a huge shield. It worked well for fixing my eyeball problem, but it is too much windshield for the mounts to hold up; the mounts are just four well nuts. After a couple days the bottom two wellnuts started pulling out, and the top of the shield was angling back towards my nose, and the whole thing wiggled around. I took it off before it tore loose. I don't know what I will try next. There are different mounting mechanisms available, or maybe I'll just go back to stock and wear a helmet skirt of some sort.

The bike's handling is spectacular. I had great fun bombing around southeast Ohio on it a couple weeks ago. It reminds me of my old TDM in how it handles the twisties. I will enjoy this bike. :)

Oh, and I have been getting around 70mpg. It has great range despite the small tank.
 
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Katherine, thanks for your post. If I were to buy a new bike, the NC700X would be a serious contender. The longer I have the NT though, the better I'm liking it and really can't think of any good reason to replace it. I hope your PT and other therapies are working well. I miss your posts on this forum.

Terry
 
I am thinking seriously about that endurostar thing for the CRF 250.I have it in shop for its 600 mile sevvice, I ran it about 300 miles before the chain appeaed to be needing lube. I stopped while it was good and warm & carefully applied PJ BLUE, then washed up and had lunch about a 3/4 hour time killed and then went on the PJ has not thrown off badly and at the 600 mi mark chain sill looks like lube is there and rear wheel areas are not saturated.

I have used the PJ blue on my chain drives since about mid 1980's I think is when it came available, or was brought to my attention.used on street versions, and off road. In the 60's & until late 70's when I sold my 66 FLH HDI would always purchase a extra chain to be able to rotate chains when they needed lubed. AT that time there was a Castro?? ( senior memory ) fails me for positive manufacturer identification but if was a tin pan of maybe 12or 15 inches around and maybe two inches deep. You could take your dirty & dry chain off and clean it , le it drip the solvent off of it after wiping it first and then again after. Ten heat the can of lube that was in a solid form when cold. A hot plate was the ideal warm to heat the lube can/pan to just short of boiling and then leave it heated for a 1/2 -3/4 hour, remove chain and hang up to let excess drip back into can/pan. then place ready chain in a plastic bag until it was needed. some people would just leave the fresh chain in the can /pan and wipe the excess off cold when they were ready to install it.This method usurally was good for about 500 mile per chain before you needed to change it out and in those yeas that was a LONG day! Another point this was before the O ring chains wen if you needed a new chain you went to a bearing ,belt , and chain store an bought a length of chain with the correct number of links and a new master link and started over again.

Does anyone really wonder why black leather was so popular?:rofl1:

I will be watching this subject line to see what Katherine comes up with for a current solution. I think she is really one of our leaders with new & improved technicqes!


Eldon
 
Katherine, so sorry to hear about the drop foot difficulties, but appreciate your remarks on the NC700X. Maybe it will be in consideration for me on that day in the distant future when my NT wears out.

Let me ask a Ural-related question -- would you trust your Ural for a really long ride. There's a guy near here who rode one to Alaska and had the top-end of his engine rebuilt twice on the trip. He's just replaced that Ural with one of the new FI ones.

I love the concept, but wish they were a little faster for long-distance trips and also can't help but wish I didn't keep hearing stories of fairly major mechanical difficulties being a "feature" of the brand.
 
Thanks for the write up.

I have found the air under the chin thing on many bikes with bikini type fairings. I had two on the Guzzi that both did that. It's kinda like, lower windshield to leave shoulders and helmet in the windstream, or get the wind completely over the top of the helmet. In between sucks.

Even then you can have 'flow' problems. The 3/4 fairing on the Guzzi allows a flow of air up from underneath. Touring it is not a problem cause the tank bag stops it, but, on short rides it can be a problem. I have found that a good chin curtain on the helmet fixes most of it.
 
I have found the air under the chin thing on many bikes with bikini type fairings. I had two on the Guzzi that both did that. It's kinda like, lower windshield to leave shoulders and helmet in the windstream, or get the wind completely over the top of the helmet. In between sucks.

Even then you can have 'flow' problems. The 3/4 fairing on the Guzzi allows a flow of air up from underneath. Touring it is not a problem cause the tank bag stops it, but, on short rides it can be a problem. I have found that a good chin curtain on the helmet fixes most

Silly question,, do you folks having trouble with airflow drying your eyes have chin curtains?
 
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