I need some help!

Phil Tarman

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I tried installing my Kaoko throttle lock this evening and ran into a problem. I can't get the bar end out! I don't know if Empire in Spokane did something when they installed the heated grips or what. Any ideas? I probably turned the screw a couple hundred times. It seems to me as if the bar end is very, very slightly out from where it was when I started.

Any ideas/solutions will be greatly appreciated!
 
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Phil Tarman

Phil Tarman

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Thanks, Chuck! I'll give that a shot.

After trying Chuck's suggestion: Well, that didn't work. :-(
 
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RedLdr1

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There are spring clips on the bar weight to hold it in place. You have to press those in while pulling / twisting the weight to get it out. The dealer broke mine, while installing the heated grips, and after that the weight would slide out while riding. The whole assembly had to be replaced.
 
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If you are still having trouble and the inside the bar weight is turning can you jam a small screwdriver or punch in the hole that latches it to stop it from turning so it will then unscrew the end weight?
Just a thought. Hopefully you have it off by now.

Brad
 
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Phil Tarman

Phil Tarman

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If you are still having trouble and the inside the bar weight is turning can you jam a small screwdriver or punch in the hole that latches it to stop it from turning so it will then unscrew the end weight?
Just a thought. Hopefully you have it off by now.

Brad
Brad, I'm not sure how I'd do that. From what I remember that latch is inside the handlebar. I haven't tried again yet today, but am heading to the garage in a few minutes. I'll let you all know what works out!
 
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Phil Tarman

Phil Tarman

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That's what I've decided. I "pulled and turned" for 45 minutes today. I came out about 3/32". ☹
 

junglejim

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I think I remember rigging up some sort or "puller" and used the internal threads to pull it out. Sometime excessive force works. I think it just sheared off the retaining lugs. It was VERY tight.
 
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Frosty

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I had problems pulling the weights out of the VFR clip-ons. I had access to the hole in the handle bar to make sure the retaining tab (16) was pressed in. It was still so tight that I made a McGuyver setup. I got a long threaded bolt with the same thread as the handlebar weight bolt (23). I put it thru a washer(s) and a socket. The socket and washer(s) snugged against the od of the handle bar while the bolt thread pulled on the weight (12). If the weight turns, you might need a slide hammer. Not fun.

Might squirt some oil or silicon in handle bar to lube the rubber dampers (14 & 15).

1607555361359.png
 
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Phil Tarman

Phil Tarman

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My biggest problem is that the handlebar weight bolt is locked into something and the weight turns with it as if they were welded together.
 
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Sounds like that you reached the point where you need to use any impact driver with a hex bit.

I have both pneumatic and cordless impact wrenches. It would make short work of that issue. Then you could get on to more important things.
 
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My biggest problem is that the handlebar weight bolt is locked into something and the weight turns with it as if they were welded together.
There is an internal to the handlebar vibration damper and the external weight. The bolt holds the two together. Each has a half circle sticking out so the 2 parts interlock.

So when you turn the bolt the external weight is still turning? If so the bolt is still tight and run all the way in. The 1/2 circle interlocks would still be engaged and lock the 2 together. You maybe can hold the external weight with large pliers or pipe wrench to prevent it turning as you then loosen the allen bolt. They may be cross threaded but at least would have loctited threads.
So if you get the external weight off then you'll see where you stand with the internal damper from there.
BTW the internal damper is rubber mounted and fairly free to turn. That internal damper is what is held with a clip into a hole in the handlebars (under the throttle assembly I think).

Good luck,
Brad

DSCN0748.JPGDSCN0754.JPGDSCN0756.JPG
 
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DirtFlier

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The internal piece an aluminum casting with 8 mm female threads at one end. It has two rubber sleeves at either end. A clip/with upturned tangs fits into the outer sleeve with those tangs locking into a hole in the handlebar. The tangs keep the handlebar weight from sliding off the end. The heavy handlebar end weight is the real damper and all the other parts allow it to float and not touch metal-to-metal so it can dampen. Study the exploded view drawing provided by Frosty earlier in this post.

Turning the external screw without the weight coming free means those upturned tangs are no longer locked into the holes in the handlebar so everything just spins freely. My suggestion is to remove the front brake master cylinder from the handlebar then you can loosen the two screws holding the throttle assy to the handlebar and push it further to the left. This should allow you to access one of the holes in the handlebar and you can secure that floating alum piece by jamming a punch or nail into that hole as you try to unscrew the bolt.

During reassembly you'll have to figure out how to keep that internal piece from spinning.

ps. When you remove the front brake master cylinder from the handlebar, try and keep it upright by using bungee cords or wire.
 
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Phil Tarman

Phil Tarman

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During reassembly you'll have to figure out how to keep that internal piece from spinning.
DirtFlier, the Kaoko throttle lock doesn't attach to the internal piece in any way, so that won't be a problem.

I'll use your method to try to get the access to that hole so I can keep the interior piece from spinning.

Thanks to all of you for your suggestions!
 

Frosty

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Sorry Phil, I thought you had the external handle bar weight off.

Here are the internal dampers from the VFR. The lower is assembled. The threaded hole for the bolt is in the right end. I think that you can turn the external bar weight (handlebar weight), internal damper (handlebar weight B), and the bolt that holds them together, and still have the steel keeper (handle weight snap ring) engaged. The two rubber grommets and the steel keeper will allow the internal metal piece to turn even though they may be fixed in the handle bar.

To remove the external weight, you have to keep it from turning while you loosen the bolt. To remove the internal damper, you must make sure the metal tab holding the internal damper from sliding out is not in the hole. As I recall, it is a triangular tab (red circle) punched out to catch in the hole in the handle bar. I can not remember if there was one or two. Once you have access to the hole, a punch will bend it down.

I do remember even with all of that done, it was a struggle to remove it, but it was a 1998 assembly.

1607636011227.png
 
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Phil Tarman

Phil Tarman

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Thanks, Frosty!

I'm guessing that the guys at Empire who installed the heated grips probably didn't have a shop manual and may have MacGyvered a way to to remove the bar weight and then did the same when they reinstalled it.
 

Frosty

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Removing the exterior bar weight should not be too hard, unless they used some nasty thread lock.
Did Kaoko provide a new external weight?
 
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Phil Tarman

Phil Tarman

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Kaoko does provide an external bar lock.

1607654356871.png


But the original external bar lock and the socket bolt (part # 23 in the diagram) that holds it seem as if they're welded together. I haven't been able to get any movement between those two parts.
 
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Phil if I understand your new Kaoko, you need to remove both the external and the internal damper before installing the new. Can you remove them both together? As others have said a clip under the grip/throttle assembly needs to be unlatched before the internal damper will come out. That can be done but it may not come out easily, I think that retainer clip binds when pulling in the out direction. So anyway just another thought on your project.

I put a Kaoko on my Versys but it has welded pieces on the ends of the bar so it is different from the Honda and pretty easy even for me. I usually make things harder than need be. I turned installing a pair of Denali LED's into a real project.

Brad
 
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