I need some help!

[Phil Tarman]

Brad, I don't think the internal damper will need to come out. It looks to me as if the Kaoko is short enough that it will fit into the handlebar without the internal damper coming out. Right now, I think DirtFlier's approach is my best "Hope!"

My suggestion is to remove the front brake master cylinder from the handlebar then you can loosen the two screws holding the throttle assy to the handlebar and push it further to the left. This should allow you to access one of the holes in the handlebar and you can secure that floating alum piece by jamming a punch or nail into that hole as you try to unscrew the bolt.

If that doesn't work, I will probably try Brad's idea:

You maybe can hold the external weight with large pliers or pipe wrench to prevent it turning as you then loosen the allen bolt. They may be cross threaded but at least would have loctited threads.

After that, I might have to buy a new handlebar.

 

[Warren]

I am pretty sure when I installed the Kaoko control on my NT I had to remove the internal weight to make room for it.

 

[Phil Tarman]

Warren, if I have to do that it surely can't be any harder than removing the external bar weight is!

 

[Frosty]

You need to grip the external handlebar weight and loosen the bolt. Easier said ...
The challenge is to grip the weight without marring it. Pipe wrench is not a good choice unless using a thick anti slip material to grip. An allen wrench is not long enough for torque. An allen bit for a hefty ratchet should work. At least four possible outcomes:
1. Bolt breaks loose - Internal weight is still there and I think that you have to remove it.
2. With enough leverage, shear the bolt. Ext weight off but see above
3. Even with care, round out the bolt head - Drill out see above
4. Have a cup of coffee and send Kaoko back.

A pneumatic impact should work quickly, but seems like overkill.

If I were doing this , it would require many trips to the tool store.

 

[Phil Tarman]

I don't guess it's a tragedy if I mar the stock bar weight. The Kaoko will give me a bar weight that matches the left side in appearance and if I get the Kaoka in place, and if it works (which seems likely from all the reports), I'll never take it off.

 

[Chucksklrst]

A lot simpler option and a bit less expensive.

 

[Brillot2000]

A lot simpler option and a bit less expensive.

Hasn't this type been available since the late '70s?

 

[Phil Tarman]

I don't think I could mount it with the heated grips I've got.

 

[Chucksklrst]

what heated grips do you have?

 

[Phil Tarman]

Oxford.

 

[DirtFlier]

"...Hasn't this type been available since the late '70s?..."

Yes as far as I know, it's the original type of throttle lock.

 

[Orangebob]

Sorry Phil, I thought you had the external handle bar weight off.

Here are the internal dampers from the VFR. The lower is assembled. The threaded hole for the bolt is in the right end. I think that you can turn the external bar weight (handlebar weight), internal damper (handlebar weight B), and the bolt that holds them together, and still have the steel keeper (handle weight snap ring) engaged. The two rubber grommets and the steel keeper will allow the internal metal piece to turn even though they may be fixed in the handle bar.

To remove the external weight, you have to keep it from turning while you loosen the bolt. To remove the internal damper, you must make sure the metal tab holding the internal damper from sliding out is not in the hole. As I recall, it is a triangular tab (red circle) punched out to catch in the hole in the handle bar. I can not remember if there was one or two. Once you have access to the hole, a punch will bend it down.

I do remember even with all of that done, it was a struggle to remove it, but it was a 1998 assembly.

Seems right on. This post couldn’t have come at a better time. I too am attempting to install a Krako throttle lock and haven’t for the life of me been able to get that internal piece out. I have loosened the throttle/switch housing (pg 15-8 in Svc manual) and was able to slide it outboard about 3/4 inch . . . enough to see a hole in the top of the handle bar, but that would be 3-4” in from the end of the handle bar. Is there another hole closer to the end . . . the red circle above would seem to indicate that

Additionally, I am attempting to remove the right grip/throttle tube to replace it with a salvaged one with working heated grip. Per the instructions 15-6 thru 15-9 in the svc manual, I have removed the 2 housing screws and disconnected the front brake light connectors, but still can’t seem to remove the switch/throttle housing enough to disconnect the cables. I think I must be missing something as the cables don’t have enough slack to disconnect them. Help!

As an aside, there appear to be 2 small spring clips either side of the threaded hole for the bar-end weight bolt. Ref photo takenof the end of the bar.

 

[DirtFlier]

You might have to loosen the adjusters at the throttle and maybe even at engine to get enough slack to be able to split the clamshell piece that secures/protects where the cables fit into the disc that is part of the "throttle pipe," as it's called in the parts drawing.

 

[ARKNT]

there appear to be 2 small spring clips either side of the threaded hole

So I believe those spring clips to be the issue (for throttle lock install). They get put in but are not meant to come out easily.
When you get the internal damper out pictures here may help someone in the future.
If you guys get in a bind and need another bar end weight I have a set sitting around.

Brad

 

[Phil Tarman]

Seems right on. This post couldn’t have come at a better time. I too am attempting to install a Krako throttle lock and haven’t for the life of me been able to get that internal piece out. I have loosened the throttle/switch housing (pg 15-8 in Svc manual) and was able to slide it outboard about 3/4 inch . . . enough to see a hole in the top of the handle bar, but that would be 3-4” in from the end of the handle bar. Is there another hole closer to the end . . . the red circle above would seem to indicate that

Additionally, I am attempting to remove the right grip/throttle tube to replace it with a salvaged one with working heated grip. Per the instructions 15-6 thru 15-9 in the svc manual, I have removed the 2 housing screws and disconnected the front brake light connectors, but still can’t seem to remove the switch/throttle housing enough to disconnect the cables. I think I must be missing something as the cables don’t have enough slack to disconnect them. Help!

As an aside, there appear to be 2 small spring clips either side of the threaded hole for the bar-end weight bolt. Ref photo takenof the end of the bar.

Orangebob (and everyone else), today I finally had success! Well, to tell the truth, I didn't have success, but Friend Mike (my go to for anything that baffles me mechanically, electronically, computer wise, cruise control wise. I could go on and on...) did. His impact wrench broke the handlebar bolt loose. After that, we removed the throttle tube (Mike took the switch apart and unhooked the throttle cables). Then he screwed the bar end weight bolt into the inner part of the bar end assembly and I pulled on the assembly while Mike pushed on the clips. And, finally, it came out.

The next problem is that the Oxford heated grips were too long to let the Koako thrust washer touch the handlebar. So we trimmed the end of grips. Mike is a perfectionist and he sanded and used a Dremel tool to get the end of the grip completely flat and smooth. All is well. The Koako works and I think it's going to be easier to engage than the Throttlemeister I had on Dudley.

After Mike finished, I let him get back to work and I took a little ride up to Cheyenne and then back to Grover and then Greeley. I've finally got 2021 miles on the bike!

 

[DirtFlier]

Yes, I agree about the Kaoko being easier to engage because I had a Throttlemeister for many years and now have a Kaoko on my NC700X.
.

 

[Phil Tarman]

BTW, for anyone who has trouble figuring out what I mean to say as opposed to what I actually say, I do not have 2021 miles on the bike now. Instead I put my first miles ridden in 2021 on the bike. And I forgot to mention that my new Russell Sport Seat feels like it's going to be a winner. I appreciate being a little closer to the ground and I really can't tell much difference without the Daylong suspension.

 

[seagrass]

Well done Phil (and Mike) I did suggest that getting the bat end weight and inner bolt out was the challenge, good, good to hear I was not the only one that had trouble.

Good to hear you got to go for a ride too, I hope to be out on one of bikes bikes in the near future after a I get the garage sorted out so I can get a bike out ;-)

Seagrass