Lights aren’t working after replacing them, cleaning starter, checking fuses

[bluetoad721]

Checked fuses
Replaced bulbs
Cleaned starter on the handlebars
cleaned bulb plug ins

The bike was riding in 110 heat when the high beam and low beam bulb both went out
I stopped and then went to drive home and then once i got on the highway they started working again
The next day they aren’t working.
The battery is fully charged

I don’t know what to do next

 

[DirtFlier]

It's likely the original bulb so that would be my first thing to replace.

 

[ST1100Y]

I stopped and then went to drive home and then once i got on the highway they started working again
The next day they aren’t working.

Noticed a similar intermittent contact on GF's NT700... ignition ON no low beam, working the starter button, low beam comes on, cycle ignition OFF/ON, again no low beam...
Took RHS switch-pod apart and serviced it's guts with a few drops of ACF-50... works flawless again...

Last year she also had a weird symptom with the turn signals, RHS came on instantly, LHS with a few seconds delay... also there ACF-50 on switch contacts and the relay socket cured the problem...

I also need to mention that ze GF leaves the NT parked outside a lot... exposure to elements takes a tall on the switches and connectors... annual cleaning with applying lubrication and corrosion inhibitors is the regime...

 

[mikesim]

If both bulbs failed simultaneously then the odds of bulb failure are highly unlikely. It is possible that one bulb failed and you didn't notice it and then when the other bulb failed you noticed both were out. This could lead you to the presumption that both bulbs failed simultaneously. Many have been led down the rabbit hole by this. The common denominator however is the starter switch. You also said that both bulbs began to work once again for a while. This leads me to believe that the problem was not the bulbs. Bulbs are like fuses, when they fail, they fail permanently. How did you clean the starter switch?

Mike

 

[DirtFlier]

My guess is that most riders ride with the Low beam in use 90% of the time and only the High beam for night riding, so when the High failed in probably unknown.

 

[NewTo700V]

My NT's Hi-Low switch developed a completely off position. Switching to Hi would kill all lights. I'd have to click back to Low and then really hammer it home for Hi to work. Try opening the left grip controls and blasting out the headlight switch with a contact cleaner.

 

[WVRider]

The starter button can cause this problem. Mine did and I used something similar to what ST1100Y used and sprayed it out. No problem after that. Every so often I'll clean mine out especially after being caught in the rain for any length of time.

 

[ARKNT]

My guess is starter button since it would be common to both hi & lo.
Maybe a ground issue since that would be common but the starter button cutout has happened to several NT'ers.

Arknt

edit: You might get some info here: https://www.nt-owners.org/forums/threads/strange-behavior-from-headlamp.9261/post-180392

 

[DirtFlier]

And if need be, it isn't difficult to open the housing for the headlight switch to give it a thorough cleaning. It's held together by two Phillips screws that come in from the bottom.

 

[GTFan]

My guess is that most riders ride with the Low beam in use 90% of the time and only the High beam for night riding, so when the High failed in probably unknown.

Been riding a long time, consensus I've read is to use high beams in the daytime always for visibility. You're probably right that most riders use low.

 

[bluetoad721]

If both bulbs failed simultaneously then the odds of bulb failure are highly unlikely. It is possible that one bulb failed and you didn't notice it and then when the other bulb failed you noticed both were out. This could lead you to the presumption that both bulbs failed simultaneously. Many have been led down the rabbit hole by this. The common denominator however is the starter switch. You also said that both bulbs began to work once again for a while. This leads me to believe that the problem was not the bulbs. Bulbs are like fuses, when they fail, they fail permanently. How did you clean the starter switch?

Mike

I noticed both bulbs fail at the same time! I cleaned the starter switch with electrical cleaner spray.

 

[bluetoad721]

And if need be, it isn't difficult to open the housing for the headlight switch to give it a thorough cleaning. It's held together by two Phillips screws that come in from the bottom.

Yeah how do I access the headlight relay? I read that i have to take off the left saddlebag?

 

[Woodaddict]

the NT low beam is ALWAYS on. when switching to HIGH beam, BOTH lights are on

 

[bluetoad721]

the NT low beam is ALWAYS on. when switching to HIGH beam, BOTH lights are on

I am aware of that! What i meant is that the low beam bulb and high beam bulb both went out simultaneously

 

[dnktng]

Does the high beam light on the dash come on? If it does, your headlight relay is working, and the 20A headlight fuse line (Bl/Red) is good.

There is a four pin connector upstream of the headlight bulb plugs that is common to both hi and lo beam bulbs. If this connector is disconnected the little useless "position" bulb in the headlamp will also be off... so check if the position bulb is off.

Pull out on the starter switch to make the best contact for the headlights.

 

[bluetoad721]

Does the high beam light on the dash come on? If it does, your headlight relay is working, and the 20A headlight fuse line (Bl/Red) is good.

There is a four pin connector upstream of the headlight bulb plugs that is common to both hi and lo beam bulbs. If this connector is disconnected the little useless "position" bulb in the headlamp will also be off... so check if the position bulb is off.

Pull out on the starter switch to make the best contact for the headlights.

the high beam light comes on when I turn on the key but it doesn't come on when i attempt to turn the high beams on.
Originally the position bulb was working but then I replaced the headlight harness with a completely brand new headlight harness and the position bulb is no longer working.
Advice?

 

[mikesim]

So, if I'm reading this correctly, in addition to your headlamps not working, the position lamp is not working as well? These problems occurred after the headlamp harness was replaced? Why was the headlamp harness replaced? Short of severe corrosion or physical damage, the harness should last the life of the bike. I don't think we are getting a clear picture of the problem or a chronology of the attempted repairs.

Mike

 

[bluetoad721]

So, if I'm reading this correctly, in addition to your headlamps not working, the position lamp is not working as well? These problems occurred after the headlamp harness was replaced? Why was the headlamp harness replaced? Short of severe corrosion or physical damage, the harness should last the life of the bike. I don't think we are getting a clear picture of the problem or a chronology of the attempted repairs.

Mike

I thought there might have been a continuity issue between the headlight harness and the front fairing harness so I figured I should replace it. I did this yesterday

 

[dnktng]

Are there any other symptoms? Blinkers, tail light, brake light all working? Any other mods that were being installed when the headlights or position light failed?

The position light is a simpler circuit that is independent of the Hi & Lo Beams, except for sharing connectors, battery, and grounding. So I would fix the position light first and that likely will fix your headlight problems, unless you have 2 or more faults (or a common ground terminal is failing). Doesn't really matter, fix the simpler fault first.

The position light and Hi&Lo beams share a 4 pin connector and a gray 10 pin connector. I think the wire harness you replaced has the 4 pin connector on it. Recheck it and put the old harness back in if needed to get the position light working again.

The gray 10 pin connector feeds the instrument panel + other circuits (headlight and position light) and is immediately upstream on the 4 pin connector. I'd try to find it by following the wires back from the 4 pin connector. Disconnect and reconnect if you find it.

Do you have a voltmeter?

 

[mikesim]

I thought there might have been a continuity issue between the headlight harness and the front fairing harness so I figured I should replace it. I did this yesterday

With all due respect, you really shouldn't replace parts unless they have proven by testing that they are faulty. Guesswork will lead you down some expensive rabbit holes. If you don't have a voltmeter or 12V test lamp you should get one and trace the circuit step by step back to the source of power until it leads you to the fault. When doing electrical diagnosis, NEVER assume anything. The only bad component is one that has been proven bad by testing and the same can be said for a good component. Fuses can sometimes look good but still be faulty.

Mike