The entire instrument panel in my 2010 NT is out. The fuses are fine. Headlights, tail lights, and turn signals work fine. Bike is garaged and has barely been rained on and not recently. I have no electrical farkles. What could be wrong? The shop is going to remove the fairings to take a look at the guages. Anyone know what could be causing this? Bike has only 6600 miles on it. Help please!
My Guages don't work
- Thread starter Lm77
- Start date
If you have a service manual, it says to check voltage & ground that is sent to the 20 pin combination meter connector. Do you plan on disassembling and pulling the meter panel yourself?
Are you sure about the fuses? The fuses with the black/brown and red/green wires are most likely. If it's not fuses, it gets rather involved and may be expensive. Although not specifically called for anywhere, it would be easy to disconnect the battery for a few minutes and reconnect it. Computers....sometimes they like that.
If you do the dis-assembly yourself, there are some voltage and grounds checks to make that may find a wiring fault. And (here's the good news) it is also possible that just disconnecting and re-connecting the combination meter could fix it. The bad possible connectors would be the 20 pin connector on the meter itself, a blue 12 pin connector & grey 10 pin connector under the left fairing pocket (in there somewhere), and on a real outside chance the main computer connector.
If you don't plan on disassembling and are going to take it to a shop, you are the mercy of a shop. New meters are expensive...$500-$700 plus labor. Hopefully the shop would be honest if they just find a easy cheap wiring fix or connector cleaning and only you charge for labor.
Used meters can be found on ebay, or you could save a little money and buy the meter internals and re-use the meter covers if you do it yourself. New meter internals (Meter Assy.) run $350 to $500.
Unfortunately past meter problem resolutions haven't been posted here. Either they aren't getting resolved, or shortly after developing a blank meter, people are being abducted by aliens. Good luck.
Are you sure about the fuses? The fuses with the black/brown and red/green wires are most likely. If it's not fuses, it gets rather involved and may be expensive. Although not specifically called for anywhere, it would be easy to disconnect the battery for a few minutes and reconnect it. Computers....sometimes they like that.
If you do the dis-assembly yourself, there are some voltage and grounds checks to make that may find a wiring fault. And (here's the good news) it is also possible that just disconnecting and re-connecting the combination meter could fix it. The bad possible connectors would be the 20 pin connector on the meter itself, a blue 12 pin connector & grey 10 pin connector under the left fairing pocket (in there somewhere), and on a real outside chance the main computer connector.
If you don't plan on disassembling and are going to take it to a shop, you are the mercy of a shop. New meters are expensive...$500-$700 plus labor. Hopefully the shop would be honest if they just find a easy cheap wiring fix or connector cleaning and only you charge for labor.
Used meters can be found on ebay, or you could save a little money and buy the meter internals and re-use the meter covers if you do it yourself. New meter internals (Meter Assy.) run $350 to $500.
Unfortunately past meter problem resolutions haven't been posted here. Either they aren't getting resolved, or shortly after developing a blank meter, people are being abducted by aliens. Good luck.
The instrument panel also contains electronics that work in unison with the ECU (computer).
There have been a couple of reported incidents (strange and intermittent problems, not an instrument panel not working problem) where replacing the instrument panel has resolved the problem and got the NT700V going again.
I am not sure why this is the case but it is good to know when trouble shooting a problem.
Let us know what is found.
Seagrass
There have been a couple of reported incidents (strange and intermittent problems, not an instrument panel not working problem) where replacing the instrument panel has resolved the problem and got the NT700V going again.
I am not sure why this is the case but it is good to know when trouble shooting a problem.
Let us know what is found.
Seagrass
dnktng- Thanks so much for your response. The shop said voltage and grounds are normal at the connectors. They said they found evidence of moisture (corrosion) near the guages. That's odd since the bike is garaged (although it is humid in my garage in the summer) and it has rarely seen rain or water. I suppose it's possible that the moisture could've crept in when it was at the dealership or on the boat ride over from Japan. I bought it new. I trust the shop that's working on it. They're quoting me $714 for the meter assembly which they say would keep the labor cost down (as opposed to buying individual guages and installing each one). I'm debating if I should buy a used guage cluster. I've forwarded the shop your remarks so hopefully they'll disconnect and reconnect the battery and everything will power right up. I can dream, can't I? Again, many thanks for your input.
Lee (from the other Washington that everyone loves to hate!)
Lee (from the other Washington that everyone loves to hate!)
Thanks, Seagrass. I'll let everyone know what the resolution is, assuming I'm not abducted by aliens!!
Well the shop put on a new gauge cluster ($720 plus labor) and voila, I'm back in business. Also back to zero miles from approx. 6700 miles. Has anyone else on the forum had this problem. I'm going to write Honda a letter asking for some help with the expenses. There's no reason the guages should've died. Thanks to those who responded.
Thanks for the update, I would definatley talk to Honda as this is not the first reported instrument cluster problem so maybe they will be able to offer some help.
Seagrass
Seagrass
On the Deauvilleuk.org site there have some reports of water ingress into the instrument panel, but mostly on the earlier (ie ....2008 ) models.
Too bad it didn't work out to be something cheap and easy. But thanks for reporting the end result here. Hopefully it will help some one in the future.
Too bad it didn't work out to be something cheap and easy. But thanks for reporting the end result here. Hopefully it will help some one in the future.
Wow! Be careful that you don't end up with an odometer fraud issue when you sell the NT. I've never heard of a dealer not setting the new cluster to the mileage shown on the old cluster when doing a replacement.
JQL
Growing old disgracefully
You can't change the mileage now - well it's illegal in Europe and the gauges are designed to break if you try. There should be a sticker on the bike which gives the original mileage
karl
Site Supporter
My bike lives outside most of the time and now there seems to be something else to worry about...I hope this post does not tempt fate.
Mechanical odometers are designed to break if you try to run them backwards, they can be set forward. I've had gauge clusters replaced and the dealership has always reset the mileage to the mileage shown on the old cluster.
Just putting a sticker on a bike wouldn't last very long around here. A bottle of Goo-B-Gone would quickly remove the evidence. Without annual inspections, that record the current mileage, no government agency would ever know about the roll back.
Just putting a sticker on a bike wouldn't last very long around here. A bottle of Goo-B-Gone would quickly remove the evidence. Without annual inspections, that record the current mileage, no government agency would ever know about the roll back.
If Honda do not come to the party and help you, perhaps you could send the cluster to a reputable instrument repairer for an assessment and quote on repair. It is most likely something trivial like a bad solder joint or "popped" resistor. If it was cheap to repair, and it was mine, I would have it done and keep it as a spare. Alternatively you could sell it as a "low mileage repaired and tested" unit. BMW cars often have instrument failures and they are almost always repairable fairly cheaply.
Macka
Macka
Tried to get Honda to pay a little of the replacement cost- no luck!
DirtFlier
Site Supporter
[...I suppose it's possible that the moisture could've crept in when it was at the dealership or on the boat ride over from Japan...]
The bike is in a crate that is sealed fairly well plus there is desiccant in the crate to help absorb moisture.
The crate has a metal frame, covered in cardboard plus the bike is covered by plastic. It's not a perfect arrangement but still pretty darn good.
The bike is in a crate that is sealed fairly well plus there is desiccant in the crate to help absorb moisture.
The crate has a metal frame, covered in cardboard plus the bike is covered by plastic. It's not a perfect arrangement but still pretty darn good.
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Honda was useless. Oh well.
BuffaloJoe
Guest
Adding another quirk to this thread...
If it's warmer out (80F+), I notice random "dying" of my instrument panel. All needles will bottom out and the digital display will go blank. After a few seconds or minute, the instrument panel will come back to life. I can still use my turn signals, I don't lose the trip meter or the mpg values, and the engine isn't affected. It's just a little unnerving not knowing how fast I'm going.
When I saw frequent "dying" spells, I reached under to the 20-pin connector and checked that it was connected tightly. It felt like I was able to push the connector on a little better and the frequency of "dying" certainly became less, but it hasn't gone away completely. It still randomly happens in warmer weather.
Does anyone else experience this? Any ideas what to do?
Other than that, my NT is as solid as a Honda should be. Smooth, plenty of power for me, 55-ish mpg commuting (and better when I'm on the open road), it's great!
If it's warmer out (80F+), I notice random "dying" of my instrument panel. All needles will bottom out and the digital display will go blank. After a few seconds or minute, the instrument panel will come back to life. I can still use my turn signals, I don't lose the trip meter or the mpg values, and the engine isn't affected. It's just a little unnerving not knowing how fast I'm going.
When I saw frequent "dying" spells, I reached under to the 20-pin connector and checked that it was connected tightly. It felt like I was able to push the connector on a little better and the frequency of "dying" certainly became less, but it hasn't gone away completely. It still randomly happens in warmer weather.
Does anyone else experience this? Any ideas what to do?
Other than that, my NT is as solid as a Honda should be. Smooth, plenty of power for me, 55-ish mpg commuting (and better when I'm on the open road), it's great!
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2019
- Messages
- 545
- Bike
- 2010 NT700V
Most likely light oxidation build up in combination with temperature changes causing connectors to expand/contract and change quality of connections.
Unplug the connector and spray the pins on both sides with Deoxit or similar. Then plug, unplug, and replug a few times so the connectors can scrape themselves clean.
Might also be worth giving the same treatment to the fuse/holder that powers the gauge cluster.
Playing with connectors about 9K miles ago corrected my Throttle Position sensor code and engine surging.
BuffaloJoe
Guest
Thanks very much! Can I work the 20-pin connector loose without having to disassemble the fairing and panel?