New guy from Colorado

DirtFlier said:
I got around 25k miles out of the original chain and sprockets on my NC700X/DCT.
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The factory-installed sprocket and chain lasted me 13k. Many people on the NC700 Forum were getting about the same more less.

There are many factors when it comes to chain and sprocket wear.
  1. Lubrication is at the intermediate level, the occasional cleaning is also recommended.
  2. Proper chain slack and adjustment. - Some bikes are difficult to get done right.
  3. Rear-wheel alignment during adjustments to line up the sprocket to the centerline of the chain.
Chain maintenance and cleaning:
I have found these 2 tools that will help with setting the slack properly:
Regrading the Wheel -Sprocket Alignment:
Hope all this information helps regarding the subject of chain maintenance.
 
Brillot2000 said:
The factory-installed sprocket and chain lasted me 13k. Many people on the NC700 Forum were getting about the same more less.

There are many factors when it comes to chain and sprocket wear.
  1. Lubrication is at the intermediate level, the occasional cleaning is also recommended.
  2. Proper chain slack and adjustment. - Some bikes are difficult to get done right.
  3. Rear-wheel alignment during adjustments to line up the sprocket to the centerline of the chain.
Chain maintenance and cleaning:
I have found these 2 tools that will help with setting the slack properly:
Regrading the Wheel -Sprocket Alignment:
Hope all this information helps regarding the subject of chain maintenance.
Click to expand...
I like that chain alignment tool! Ordered one. The VFR has no provisions for chain alignment (that i know of) but I will try it my XT and see how the VFR stacks up. A quality chain brush is important but I also use a tooth tooth brush for some hard to get to places.

I am amazed that there is a properly maintained bike out there today with a chain that lasts only 13k.
I have no issues after dozens of chain bikes setting the slack. The important thing is to keep rotating the rear wheel and if the slack changes quite a bit, you have issues.
 
Coyote Chris said:
I am amazed that there is a properly maintained bike out there today with a chain that lasts only 13k.
I have no issues after dozens of chain bikes setting the slack. The important thing is to keep rotating the rear wheel and if the slack changes quite a bit, you have issues.
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On the 2012 NC700s Honda had an active recall on a group of the DID chains that they used during production. I do believe they made it onto the 2013 models too such as mine. But, mine was not covered under the Recall Notice and I had to continue to run it.

Measuring the chain slack on this bike is quite tricky at best. Tightening the axle nut will cause a significant movement to throw everything off. I used the best procedure that I thought. However, it appears it was not any the chain wore out quickly despite all my efforts.

I would have preferred the tension snails for chain tension. Megas has these. No guessing or alignment issues there.

snailadjuster.jpg
 
Brillot2000 said:
On the 2012 NC700s Honda had an active recall on a group of the DID chains that they used during production. I do believe they made it onto the 2013 models too such as mine. But, mine was not covered under the Recall Notice and I had to continue to run it.

Measuring the chain slack on this bike is quite tricky at best. Tightening the axle nut will cause a significant movement to throw everything off. I used the best procedure that I thought. However, it appears it was not any the chain wore out quickly despite all my efforts.

I would have preferred the tension snails for chain tension. Megas has these. No guessing or alignment issues there.

snailadjuster.jpg
Click to expand...

A trick I learned with chain adjustments is not to loosen the main axle nut all the way, instead loosen it just enough to allow the slack adjustment bolts/nuts to pull the axle back. Then the axle is less likely to creep when tightened. Hold the axle, as shown in the picture on the left side, with a breaker bar or box end wrench so it does not turn, then torque axle nut.
 
I was pretty close on my estimate of "around 25k." I looked it up in my service records and the original chain & sprockets on my 2013 NC700X/DCT were changed at 23k miles. Up to that point, I'd been cleaning the chain regularly with WD-40 and a chain brush every 350-400 miles. It's a practice I continue to this day. :)
 
Warren said:
Reading all of this confirms why some of us hope to never own a chain-driven bike.
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Looking at all the most recent models available on the market today. I would guess that 90% or more of these bikes available today are chain-driven. So, if you decide to buy a new bike, the odds are it will be chain-driven.

This is for the simple fact that sprockets and chains help with keeping the production cost to manufacture the motorcycle as low as possible. Shaft drive systems are quite complex and have more moving parts, which adds to the cost of the manufacturing. Chain drive has the least amount of transmission transfer losses (1-4%) when compared to the other drive types used. Belt drive comes in second at 9-15% losses and shaft drive comes in at last place at >20% losses.

Here's an article on the subject - Motorcycle Final Drive Systems Explained With Their Characteristics
 
Gadgets for setting chain tension? Maybe I'm missing something here, but at no point have I ever had an issue with setting tension just by eye in accordance with the sticker on the swingarm. If you need assistance you shouldn't need anything more than a tape measure or ruler.
 
NewTo700V said:
Gadgets for setting chain tension? Maybe I'm missing something here, but at no point have I ever had an issue with setting tension just by eye in accordance with the sticker on the swingarm. If you need assistance you shouldn't need anything more than a tape measure or ruler.
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I used a precision ruler (a.k.a. scale), which is more precise than a tape measure. I would measure the distance difference measuring for the top of the chain from the swingarm. I always set the slack to 35 mm of as it was in the middle of the range.

s-l400.jpg


After the adjustment, when I checked the slack the top of the chain would physically touch the swingarm chain slider. My factory installed Sprockets and Chain only lasted me a little over 13k and it was toast using the previously described procedure. On the second chain, I went cheap and bought a full JT Sproket and Chain Kit. Someone on the NC700 Forum tried to warn me about the JT Sprockets chain stretching and wear out quickly. That chain only lasted nearly 4,600 miles before it was toast. I bought an RK Chain off of Amazon for about $70. I installed it on the same sprockets to take them to the end of their service life. I got another 2,700 miles out of the sprockets over 8 months' time. I bought myself the time I needed to get out of a financial situation at that time. I knew that chain would not last for long. For $70, it did not bother me too much.

I am changing how I check the chain tension. Basically, I am performing my own case study using different tools and methods. I will let you all if it affects the longevity of the chain over time.

You can use any method you want to set your own chain tensions. That's great if that method works for you.

The old method did not yield the results I was looking for. I am looking at other methods using "Aids" if you will. This is the route I am taking. I am just saying...
 
With that kind of quick wear I can only guess you were setting slack tight. Tight adds load to sprocket teeth, premature chain stretching and stresses bearings. It's better to err on the side of a little loose. Now if you can pull rear links back on the wheel sprocket and see daylight through the saddles of the teeth, yeah that's way to loose. JT is an OEM supplier for many, and their sprockets are all I have ever run as they're affordable as well. I've had their sprockets last 30K miles (chain too stretched at that point) with most visible wear showing on the drive sprocket as to be expected. If I wanted to be super cheap I probably could have just flipped the drive sprocket around and put another 15K on it with a new chain.

If the top loop of chain around the swingarm is sitting on the rubber slider at proper slack setting, that's perfectly fine. The topside of the chain is what will get pulled up into tension when you get moving. I'm running JT X-Ring chain as these most recent sprocket changes. I've a few thousand miles on both and they're still well within the "new" portion of the stretch indicator stickers. Certainly over 4600 on one of the bikes. I have a hard time believing their chain is drastically different from RK or DID. They would of had to seriously botch metal tempering or something to produce chains that would only last 5K under normal conditions.
 
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I’m an Electromechanical Engineer by trade. Processes and procedures are part of my world. Process improvement is another part of it and that’s where I am at this moment. What I was doing before did not work well for me. So, I’m changing my approach to it.

I’m quite aware that JT supplies Honda with their sprockets. I will tell you that JT does has issues with their chains though. Wether it is their materials, heat treatment, pre-stressing processes, or something. From a corporate and manufacturing prospective, they want to produce the product cheaply as possible. Sometimes they will cut corners to save only a couple of ¢¢ per unit. Thus drastically effecting the product quality and its longevity. I will never buy one their chains again. They are junk in my opinion.

As hard as it is for you to believe. It happened to me. I meticulously maintain my bikes and follow all best practices, processes, and procedures when performing any work on my bikes. I take my time and do the job right. Dealerships sometimes rush the job to maximize their profits. I focus on the quality of the work over the quantity. It’s my bike and I have to live with it.
 
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