Oil Viscosity

[mikesim]

You can't go wrong with any flavor of Rotella!

 

[rc_heli_nut]

I've been using the Rotella T6 5w40 for 9 years now from freezing up to triple digits and I'm not changing now

Rotella for the win, again!

 

[Hondafan]

I bought a new ST1100 in 1990. The dealer offered Optimol 10/40 or 20/50 motorcycle oil for the first oil fill. This doubled my factory warranty from 3 to 6 years. Optimol was a German formula, made under license by a company in Seattle. We used it in all our bikes. My wife had a cam chain tensioner fail after the factory warranty had expired. It was repaired free, no questions asked.
On a trip in the US, I needed the oil changed in the ST1100. The dealer put in Golden Spectro 10/40. The shifting on my bike, immediately got notchy, especially when hot. When I got home, I switched it out with Optimol, and the shifting was buttery smooth again. What I take from that, is the brand of oil you use can have a major effect on transmission/shifting performance. And would guess that the levels of zinc and phosphorous, play a role in that difference. Unfortunately, Optimol no longer makes motorcycle oil.

4 cycle oil

Opti-4 is the highest quality petroleum engine lubricant available and is formulated specifically for the severe demands of power equipment Opti-4 is a unique blend utilizing patented Eutectic additive technology for anti-wear characteristics combined with the industry s highest standard

opti2-4.com

 

[Coyote Chris]

Excellent!

 

[Sunny]

Any thoughts on Mobil 1 15W -50 ... I just ordered some for my GS... Walmart has 5QT for $22...

So was thinking , can this be used on the GS also ... I don't ride in 5C weather so 15W should be fine ... thoughts?

Robot or human?

www.walmart.com

Mobil 1 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-20, 5 Quart - Walmart.com

Free 2-day shipping on qualified orders over $35. Buy Mobil 1 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-20, 5 Quart at Walmart.com

www.walmart.com

 

[Russ Foster]

It most be summer and boring times call for another oil pissing contest. Follow the path of our PC800 brothers : Rotella T4 which is Jasso approved and worry about other items -like tightening the shift lever nut.

 

[DarylCincy]

Any thoughts on Mobil 1 15W -50 ... I just ordered some for my GS... Walmart has 5QT for $22...

I've used Mobil 1 15w50 a few times worked good for me. Last change was with Shell Rotella 15w40 full Synthetic seems to work good too.
ps Shell Rotella 5w40 full Syn. Never shifted smooth enough after a couple thousand milles so I like the 15w stuff better.

 

[MaxPete]

Oh dear me....another oil thread.

OK, here goes....I think that the NT requires SAE 10W40 oil - but the viscosity is only one part of the issue.

As has been pointed out numerous times, the key thing is to NOT use any oil of any viscosity or origin which has an "Energy Conserving" API label on it (see photo below which shows several API service rating labels - note the ones that say "Energy Conserving"). Those oils will not hurt your engine but they will make your wet clutch slip.

The ones with no "Energy Conserving" rating are OK for motorcycles with wet clutches - assuming the viscosity is correct. I also attach a little note to explain the various API service classes.

 

[basketcase]

Resurrecting an oldie here as I'm randomly browsing and/or using search to find info on maintaining this bike.

Perhaps I missed it, and aside from the discussion about which oil, what interval between changes are y'all honoring?

Every 2.5k, or 5k, or what?

 

[Woodaddict]

full synthetic 8,000 miles..................just oil 3,000

 

[DirtFlier]

Oh no!...The dreaded oil thread raises its head again!

 

[mikesim]

I try to follow the recommended 7K interval. At first I was concerned about the length of the interval so I pulled at sample at 7K and sent it to Blackstone Labs in Fort Wayne, IN. The analysis came back as quite good. The additive package was still quite robust, pH was within spec but the oil was beginning to shear out of grade which I kind of suspected because the gear shifting was beginning to get a bit clunky.

Mike

 

[rc_heli_nut]

An oil thread? Exiting in 3... 2... 1...

 

[TonyKZ1]

Yep, when in doubt just follow your owner's manual for the specified change intervals and viscosity of oil.

 

[Johnny]

Hello all i no you all say o no not oil again but i was glad Ron brought it up. Im not really shure about the differ say 5 or10 / 30 or 40. Snyt or not. But my bike was serviced before i got hur. Haven't even put 1000 miles on it since then with 10.000 on clock. But i think the gear change gets a bit clonky when she gets up to temp and hate that. Taking off in first woodnt be to smooth eider like clutch grip point differs. Shes my pride and joy and whant the best oil and filter. Here in Ireland they wi give you what they have on the shelf and tell you its the best and the more i read im actually afraid to change it or doing rong. Dont no what they put in before i bought but have to try something else. Shes a nt700v.

 

[ST1100Y]

...i think the gear change gets a bit clonky...

Ever checked/replaced the hub dampers?
Ever cleaned/lubed the shifter linkage?
I'd further inspect/adjust/replace clutch-cable and replace the clutch lever if the brass bushing is worn...

 

[mikesim]

Hello all i no you all say o no not oil again but i was glad Ron brought it up. Im not really shure about the differ say 5 or10 / 30 or 40. Snyt or not. But my bike was serviced before i got hur. Haven't even put 1000 miles on it since then with 10.000 on clock. But i think the gear change gets a bit clonky when she gets up to temp and hate that. Taking off in first woodnt be to smooth eider like clutch grip point differs. Shes my pride and joy and whant the best oil and filter. Here in Ireland they wi give you what they have on the shelf and tell you its the best and the more i read im actually afraid to change it or doing rong. Dont no what they put in before i bought but have to try something else. Shes a nt700v.

Johnny, the viscosity you should be looking at is either a SAE 10-30 or SAE 10-40. Since it doesn't get too hot (or too cold) on the Emerald Isle either one would be just fine. The one specification you should look for on the label is to make sure that the oil meets JASO MA or MA2. This standard is for motorcycles with a wet clutch which your Honda has. Oils that don't have this label designation may have friction modifiers that are designed to improve mileage in cars and trucks but those friction modifiers don't play well with wet clutches. As far as the clunkiness, make sure that your clutch lever has about 1/4" - 3/8" freeplay at the end of the lever before it begins to engage. Shifting from neutral into first will result in a sometimes rather harsh clunk. This is just the nature of the beast. Once you are moving however shifting through the gears should be relatively clunk free. Having said that, as you begin to accumulate miles on the oil, the shifting will become somewhat clunkier. This is from the oil molecules shearing from the effect of the gears. It's not harmful, but when you do change the oil you will be amazed at how much smoother the shifting has become. You may use conventional or synthetic oil interchangeably, however I've found that conventional oil offers less clunky shifting for a longer interval than synthetic. The recommended change interval is 7K miles which may seem high but the oil still remains robust at 7K.

Hope this helps!

Mike

 

[Johnny]

Johnny, the viscosity you should be looking at is either a SAE 10-30 or SAE 10-40. Since it doesn't get too hot (or too cold) on the Emerald Isle either one would be just fine. The one specification you should look for on the label is to make sure that the oil meets JASO MA or MA2. This standard is for motorcycles with a wet clutch which your Honda has. Oils that don't have this label designation may have friction modifiers that are designed to improve mileage in cars and trucks but those friction modifiers don't play well with wet clutches. As far as the clunkiness, make sure that your clutch lever has about 1/4" - 3/8" freeplay at the end of the lever before it begins to engage. Shifting from neutral into first will result in a sometimes rather harsh clunk. This is just the nature of the beast. Once you are moving however shifting through the gears should be relatively clunk free. Having said that, as you begin to accumulate miles on the oil, the shifting will become somewhat clunkier. This is from the oil molecules shearing from the effect of the gears. It's not harmful, but when you do change the oil you will be amazed at how much smoother the shifting has become. You may use conventional or synthetic oil interchangeably, however I've found that conventional oil offers less clunky shifting for a longer interval than synthetic. The recommended change interval is 7K miles which may seem high but the oil still remains robust at 7K.

Hope this helps!

Mike

Shure does thanks mike

 

[Johnny]

Ever checked/replaced the hub dampers?
Ever cleaned/lubed the shifter linkage?
I'd further inspect/adjust/replace clutch-cable and replace the clutch lever if the brass bushing is worn...

There's only 10.500miles on hut st. Could there be that ware.

 

[suvcw04]

Oh goodie!!! An oil thread. This will be fun.