Owner-performed Maintenance Getting Set Right

They used to be “ice boxes”. Then Frigidaire started making electric refrigerators and other companies followed. But everyone called them all Frigidaires. Now they are called “Frig”.
Point is that we invent words all the time instead of using a proper existing word.
There is a difference between coolant and antifreeze and we use the words interchangeably. And no one cares.

Truth is that people got lazy and decided to use the trademark names to identify common items more easily. Just like "Coke" has been used to describe any kind of dark-colored soda in restaurants for multiple decades. Forcing the proceeding generations to use those widely accepted names for items within those categories.
 
Right, but in science and engineering that causes problems.

You are preaching to the choir here.

In my field's of terminology only the layman can loosely grasp these shortlist terms:

  1. Voltage
  2. Amps
  3. Power
  4. Impedance
Dragging in Ohm's Law will only cause their eyes to glaze over and lose consciousness.

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We tind to think of motorcycle wiring as standard 12v DC systems. However many of the systems in modern motorcycles is CAN Bus now and does not function like 12v DC. It is important to know which system you tear into on a modern motorcycle.

Similarly my motorcycle has variable valve timing too. The variable valve timing systems are controlled by air flow, fuel flow, rpm or combination thereof. So I'm not going to pull my valve timing apart to adjust shims in my valves. It is going to a qualified mechanic for that. Same thing with my wiring. I'm not touching my CAN Bus wiring and computers. I only understand the 12v DC systems.
 
OK, where do I begin......

Yes, I’m quite aware of that fact.

Not everyone understands resistance or what it is. Impedance is a more likely term that the layman could grasp as it is used for TV and speaker inputs through consumer electronics.
A good example of this is Refrigerant versus Freon. The Layman is not familiar with the term refrigerant and many not understand what it is, but they kind of know what Freon is.

You should be quite aware of that Freon is a trademark name of Dupont for R12 and no other refrigerant.

In your initial post you stated "Batteries due have an internal resistance or impedance. " Thus conflating the two terms. You initially stated "resistance" (correct term) but then switched to "impedance" (incorrect term). I was merely bring it to your attention. Even when explaining something it is always proper to use correct terminology with a brief explanation to make sure you are not going over someone's head.

Yes, I am very aware of refrigerant vs Freon and also DuPont's trademark of same.

In another related post, you state,


Any connections made directly to the battery are subject to corrosion. I would recommend that you make your connections to the starter solenoid bolt where the battery connects instead. This will eliminate the possibility of contact corrosion.

Let's examine your advice in this case. You are of course aware that the NT uses a sealed AGM battery which prevents the type of corrosion you are referring to. The battery chemistry allows the off gassing that occurs to re-liquefy and be reabsorbed by the fiberglass mat. In advising the owner to connect to the solenoid really doesn't accomplish anything either. In the unlikely event that corrosion would occur the solenoid and the recommended connection is downstream in series from the battery. Any high resistance caused by said corrosion would already interfere with the circuit prior to the solenoid.

Hope this clarifies the discussion.

Mike
 
They used to be “ice boxes”. Then Frigidaire started making electric refrigerators and other companies followed. But everyone called them all Frigidaires. Now they are called “Frig”.
Point is that we invent words all the time instead of using a proper existing word.
There is a difference between coolant and antifreeze and we use the words interchangeably. And no one cares.
I also call a tissue a "Klennex"
 
Truth is that people got lazy and decided to use the trademark names to identify common items more easily. Just like "Coke" has been used to describe any kind of dark-colored soda in restaurants for multiple decades. Forcing the proceeding generations to use those widely accepted names for items within those categories.
If a waitress gives me a Pepsi her tip is out the window!;)
 
Let's examine your advice in this case. You are of course aware that the NT uses a sealed AGM battery which prevents the type of corrosion you are referring to. The battery chemistry allows the off gassing that occurs to re-liquefy and be reabsorbed by the fiberglass mat. In advising the owner to connect to the solenoid really doesn't accomplish anything either. In the unlikely event that corrosion would occur the solenoid and the recommended connection is downstream in series from the battery. Any high resistance caused by said corrosion would already interfere with the circuit prior to the solenoid.

Hope this clarifies the discussion.

Mike

With utmost respect.

As true as that might be. Old habits are hard to change.

Back in the day when traditional wet cell batteries were used in motorcycles. At that time when I started my riding career and learning electrical circuits before receiving any former training. I learned that corrosion was a big problem when connecting any additional wires or other cables directly to the battery terminals. I then started the habit to connect further down on the starter solenoid between the positive power lead and the securing hardware. A practice I still use to this day. The positive power lead from the battery was always to the shorts path to connect to the solenoid contact.

Contact "Resistance" can still be a problem with any power system regarding what DC source is used. I have seen within my career span where high current contacts connected to a DC power supply carbonize over time, thus creating a higher than normal contact resistance. These contacts would then generate heat possibly enough to melt the plastic housings. Thus adding to the issues already in play.

Both my truck and RV still use wet cell batteries. I never connect unnecessary cables to directly the batteries on both of these vehicles. These batteries are quite pricy as they are and corrosion is an ongoing issue with them. Other battery media types are significantly more expensive. So, I have no plans to change these out to another battery type in the foreseeable future. That is my choice. I am just staying...
 
In the world of motorcycle maintenance, Impedance is basically a snob term. Like someone calling my wife a "doctor" cause she has a PHD.
In the world of electronic design, of course, impedance is very important and has to do with many factors in the world of alternating current.
Impedance is a moving target in many ways and you can read all about it if you need to fall asleep.

Understanding DC resistance, voltage, power, watts, and current and a few simple formulas will get you where you need to go in the world of fixing bikes. Like why older VFR stators and voltage regulators and their connectors are junk and why Subaru cant figure out how to build a reliable inexpensive headlight connector that wont burn up.

a subby.jpg
 
In the world of motorcycle maintenance, Impedance is basically a snob term.

Understanding DC resistance, voltage, power, watts, and current and a few simple formulas will get you where you need to go in the world of fixing bikes. Like why older VFR stators and voltage regulators and their connectors are junk and why Subaru cant figure out how to build a reliable inexpensive headlight connector that wont burn up.

View attachment 17851

That is one way to put it. You will be surprised how often that term is thrown around in both the engineering and design world. Other engineers, I had worked with use that term universally with DC Resistance when it comes to the connector's "Contact Resistance".

The image of your headlight connector is an example I was referring to earlier. The contacts have "Carbonized" and their "Contact Resistance" increased over time to generate enough heat as the current flows through them to melt the surrounding plastic. This is very common believe it or not. The application of dielectric grease both at the entry of the connector and mating male terminals from the beginning will help these from happening over time. Once this has occurred, all you can do cut off the connector and replace it with a new one. I have seen high-temperature ceramic ones available on various websites.

H4 Heavy Duty14AWG Ceramic Headlight Connector Socket

Be sure to pick up some dielectric grease as well. I would also replace the headlight bulbs that you are in there. Their mating contacts can also be carbonized and the bulbs could be past their half-service life.

I would also recommend a good quality butt slice that has heat shrink installed on them or uninsulated butt slices and dual wall heat shrink tubing for a water-tight seal.
 
That is one way to put it. You will be surprised how often that term is thrown around in both the engineering and design world. Other engineers, I had worked with use that term universally with DC Resistance when it comes to the connector's "Contact Resistance".

The image of your headlight connector is an example I was referring to earlier. The contacts have "Carbonized" and their "Contact Resistance" increased over time to generate enough heat as the current flows through them to melt the surrounding plastic. This is very common believe it or not. The application of dielectric grease both at the entry of the connector and mating male terminals from the beginning will help these from happening over time. Once this has occurred, all you can do cut off the connector and replace it with a new one. I have seen high-temperature ceramic ones available on various websites.

H4 Heavy Duty14AWG Ceramic Headlight Connector Socket

Be sure to pick up some dielectric grease as well. I would also replace the headlight bulbs that you are in there. Their mating contacts can also be carbonized and the bulbs could be past their half-service life.

I would also recommend a good quality butt slice that has heat shrink installed on them or uninsulated butt slices and dual wall heat shrink tubing for a water-tight seal.
Correct. In the world of aircraft maintenance and espeically in the world of police car two way radio work, which was my field for 30 years, I have never seen this type of connector used in high current applications. The spade connector is actually fine in dry, low current applications although I prefer a good quality crimp connector. Remember the old 1968 Chevy headlight connetors? HEAVY DUTY.
More examples of contact resistance causeing melting and other not nice things. Many bikes have this problem One of the primary offenders is the cheep stator/regulator system most bikes use. Take a three phase stator, unregulated, and run the 6 wires to a big heat sink with a voltage regulator that burns up extra energy as heat in the heat sink.
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a vfr 2.jpg
 
The melted connector was common on some bikes in the 80s and 90s. High resistance in that connection caused drastic overheating!

I had a model in that year range ('97 PC800) and each winter one of my simple, 5-min, chores was to disconnect, clean and regrease the critical connector (3 yellow wires) that runs from the alternator to the dinky reg/rec. That bike had a reputation for eating reg/recs but I had the original one well past 60k miles and replaced it with a new OEM unit, mostly out of guilt and paranoia, but kept the old one as a spare in the boot. That spare helped a few friends make it home on long trips! :)

Some cruisers hang the reg/rec right out in the airsteam which is a great idea; unfortunately, all the sport tourers I know of have the reg/rec hidden under the plastic. The problem with mounting it in the open on sport tourers is that it gets bleeping hot when the engine is running so it has to be someplace away from your legs. By comparison to the PC800, the NT has a massive reg/rec plus it sits on a large aluminum heat sink that is bolted to the frame but I still wish it were out in the airstream.
 
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By comparison to the PC800, the NT has a massive reg/rec plus it sits on a large aluminum heat sink that is bolted to the frame but I still wish it were out in the airstream.

The electrical contacts on the NT rectifier regulator are significantly more substantial when compared to others. The connector housings are also different and larger than those commonly used on other models. I suspect that these were sourced from a quality supplier/manufacturer such as TE Connectivity.

Back in the 1980s and 1990s, Honda sourced all their connectors and contacts used for their wiring harnesses from Hitachi.
 
Correct. In the world of aircraft maintenance and espeically in the world of police car two way radio work, which was my field for 30 years, I have never seen this type of connector used in high current applications. The spade connector is actually fine in dry, low current applications although I prefer a good quality crimp connector. Remember the old 1968 Chevy headlight connetors? HEAVY DUTY.
More examples of contact resistance causeing melting and other not nice things. Many bikes have this problem One of the primary offenders is the cheep stator/regulator system most bikes use. Take a three phase stator, unregulated, and run the 6 wires to a big heat sink with a voltage regulator that burns up extra energy as heat in the heat sink.
View attachment 17856
View attachment 17857

For the most part, these Anderson Powerpole connectors would address these issues that you having with your VFR connectors.

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150 Piece Assorted 15/30/45A Anderson Powerpole Case

You will also need the crimp tool as well for another $45. This much cheaper than the manufacturer sold crimpers $$$.


tricrimp-the-best-powerpole-crimping-tool-for-15-30-and-45-amp-contacts__5240_580.jpg


TRIcrimp, the best Powerpole crimping tool for 15, 30 and 45 amp contacts

These do just a good of job as I used them at work to make some cable assemblies myself.
 
My NT stator connector had an issue. I wish I had used dielectric grease on it and maybe I would have prevented mine going bad and having to replace.

Brad

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I installed a used PC cooling fan on top of the Rec/Rec years ago (long before this photo was taken). It powers up with the ignition and uses less than 1 amp.
As we regularly get temperatures of over 40 degrees C, I thought it prudent. It has worked well.

Macka
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