Rear Diff gone kaput.

Mark Millard

Guest
Bought my NT700 in Febuary 2014, this is a 2008 bike that only had 1400 miles on it and is in good condition, until three weeks ago I had put another 600 miles on it. Went out on a monday night to a bike meet at the coast, this is about 40 miles either way on the motorway so it was a fast run, got back home left it on the side stand while I opened my garage door, then wheeling it back into the garage there was a rumbling and squeaking noise from the rear diff. got the bike but I drained it off and it was still . I let it cool down for a while but when you spun the rear wheel on the centre stand there was a bearing rumble, I had changed the oil in the rear diff when I first got the bike but I drained it off to check and it was clean with no metal filings in it,so then I stripped the back end down to get the rear wheel off, it must have been an idiot that designed this bike !! in the end I took the right hand side pannier off and it was a lot easier once I got the brake stop bolt off. Once the diff was off the frame there was no rumble when you turned it but of course there is no load on it then, all the splines were well greased so I can only assume I have a faulty bearing. Looking inside the diff through the oil filler hole you can see a slight mark on all the teeth on the main crown wheel, and there was some marks on the casting inside as though the crown wheel had just been skimming it. Anyway what to do next I thought ? a new diff from Honda was out of the question due to the price, maybe get a transmission mechanic to look at it to replace the bearing ? but no looked on E Bay and there was a low mile diff off an NT650 for ?90 so after checking all the various Honda code numbers which looked the same so I bought it. This has arrived and is in good condition and is a duplicate of the NT700 diff, just cleaned all the splines and given it a coat of silver paint, the Moly 60 paste has arrived, so Saturday is reassembly day, does anybody have any tips on the reassembly ? Thanks Mark.
 

Mellow

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It may not be the rear end, might just be the u-joint where it connects from the transmission to the drive shaft.

Can you post up some pictures? So it's not wheel bearings? You're certain,
 

kenstone

Guest
It may not be the rear end, might just be the u-joint where it connects from the transmission to the drive shaft.

Can you post up some pictures? So it's not wheel bearings? You're certain,
yep this, and the spline at the final drive end of the driveshaft.
 

Phil Tarman

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I'd definitely check the pinion bearing at the end of back end of the drive shaft!
 
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When assembling leave the bolts that attach the final drive to the swingarm a little loose.

Fit the rear wheel and tighten the axle nut before tightening the final drive bolts.

If you do it in this order the final drive is properly aligned.
 
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Some Guzzi's are notorious for the shaft bearings going away. I'd check those and the UJoint as well as the pinion bearing. If none of those are an issue then it would mean something inside the bevel box, but, given your description of the clean oil in there sounds like it is ok.
 
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OP

Mark Millard

Guest
Put the second hand diff on today and it sounds a lot better spinning the wheel by hand, while everything is in bits I thought I would change the rear brakes fluid and clean up the pads and pins, however the wife has other ideas like going to the lake district in the camper, so it looks like it will be an evening job some time next week. Will let you all know when I get it back together whether it has been a success. Mark.
 
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Mr. pedantic checking in: You do not have a differential in the rear of your NT700. It's just a ring and pinion pair. A differential is more complex mechanism with many more moving parts.
 
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Or you can avoid all the nattering from the Peanut Gallery (boy, that dates me), and call it a "final drive assembly".
 

Bear

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Definitely related to the "Peanut Gallery" When I experienced that problem, I went to the Honda dealer and told them that the "A** End was shot" It got fixed under warranty.
 
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Mark Millard

Guest
Second hand bevel box fitted and all now seems to be working correctly, the strip down of the rear end was made worse by salt corrosion ( spread on the roads during our cold winters ) it should be a lot easier now as I have applied copper grease on all the threads, I used the method of taking the right hand pannier off and loosening the muffler bolts and also took of the number plate panel, while everything was off I cleaned the rear brake caliper and pads up and new brake fluid. Thanks all Mark.
 
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