Rear Wheel and Tire R&R Class

Mounted a tire for my buddy's Venture. The rear tire was so pinched from shipping, the tire's sidewall would not sit against the rim's bead to allow for air up. I took a ratcheting cargo strap, placed it around the circumference of the tire, and then tightened the strap. This caused the tire sidewalls to flare outward and make contact with the rim bead. I was then able to get the tire to bead up.

I find this also with large truck tires with really tall sidewalls although you can normally just stand the wheel up and press down on the tire and that is enough to get the sidewalls to set against the bead. The stiffer bike tire sidewalls aren't so easy so the straps come in handy.
 
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Yep, the cargo straps are great.

And Phil, don't need fancy stuff. A couple of 2x4's to rest the wheel on and tire irons is all it takes :) Break bead with a C clamp and piece of wood.

Of course, the nice tools make it so much easier.
 
PS Phil, did the dealer change the tires for you before? There should have been plenty of grease on those splines and they look kinda dry. I'd be tempted to take it to the dealer and ask them why. They should not be that worn after less than 100k miles.
 
That discovery was great! I've still got 11 months worth of extended warranty.

It was a Honda dealer who did the tire change, but not my Honda dealer. The tire change was done in Gainesville, FL, at Streit's Motorsports.

Someone on the Forum had recommended them. I hereby unrecommend them.
 
bicyclist said:
Those are some ugly splines. When you see rust on them, ya know ya got trouble.

One of those pictures gave me a hint as to why I have difficulty with reinstalling the caliper. I don't believe that I've ever disconnected the hose clip. I'll have to look into that.
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yep, known to me as "red death" anywhere you see it, on a chain, gun, bearing, pivot point, always trouble:doh1:
 
Phil, Just checking in and seeing how your bike is doing? Rear wheel still attached and going Round and Round?:shrug2::eek: Don't want anybody criticizing our work.
 
it did fine getting to Rocky Ford from Fort Morgan. I'm just getting ready to head back north with it in about 20 minutes. I'll let you know if it lasts another 180 miles. :)
 
RedLdr1 said:
Because shop manuals are co-authored by liability lawyers and also designed to maximize "book rate" billing a dealer can charge for a service or repair. Almost every vehicle is a lot easier to maintain than the shop manuals imply... Depending upon your skill level and available tools there are often easier ways to do a task. But in defense of shop manuals they will rarely steer you wrong...:wink:
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Well said Wayne... I worked for a Honda dealer for a little over 10 years and this statement is very true. We found ways all the time to shortcut. If you have a lift and can remove the rear portion, bag removal or for that matter fender removal is not necessary.
 
I got home. The bike does fine. The new rear tire is an improvement on the old squared-off PR3.
 
I talked to Sun Honda today and they agreed that it would be warranty work. I'm taking the bike in tomorrow afternoon. I'll keep you all posted on what they say.
 
They will. I printed off 8X10s of them today on glossy photo paper. They're really good pictures.
 
OK... I've posted some of what's happened on non-related threads, but I guess it's time to bring things up to speed. I took my bike to Sun Honda two weeks ago to have them fix the final drive (thankfully I've got the extended warranty that's good till March of 2015). They ordered parts which came in Monday. The tech who has done nearly all the work on my bike started on it yesterday afternoon and I was hoping to pick it up tomorrow or Friday.

But this morning I got a call and learned that they had found a "smoked" pinion bearing. It hadn't been one of the parts they had ordered and, naturally, they didn't have it in stock. So, now I'm due to wait another 7-10 days for the bearing to come in and the repair to be completed.

It's enough to make a feller believe in Honda Moly-60.
 
The pinion gear is on the end of the drive shaft in the final drive which drives a bigger gear which drives the wheel. The splined hub that you put moly grease on only fits to final drive splined receiver. Those 2 splined mating faces only turn together. Moly grease only helps in keeping from rusting and the splines from wearing too much.
 
Thanks for the explanation. Wonder how normal it is for a pinion gear to be "smoked" after 85,000 miles.
 
Had mine go at 55K miles - mine was more flamed out than smoked as the cage had actually broken up - does make quite a 'bag of spanners' noise! Not a 5 minute job to replace either, though presumably they will have the special holding tools that I didn't have....... Bike had a hard previous life to my ownership being used in London by the AA (breakdown service not booze removal!!), though was of course immaculately serviced and maintained by Honda main dealers....... Bearing is by the way a standard Kyoto ball bearing readily obtainable from any bearing supplier for modest amounts.
 
Phil Tarman said:
Thanks for the explanation. Wonder how normal it is for a pinion gear to be "smoked" after 85,000 miles.
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had my PC800 with the same or similar final drive. 1 bike had 168,500 without any trouble, other bike had 78,00 without any trouble. so to try and make this eaiser to understand..... that rear straight spline meshes with final drive spline, with play in it. acts as a quick release you might say. it will start to wear with braking and accelerating. the pinion gear and the big final drive gear are helical that run in the gear oil.

Flange Drive Set.JPG

here is a pic with the straight spline big gear upside down. (you don't see straight splines).
 
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