Riding 'WEST"

Phil Tarman

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Junglejim (Jim Rau) and his '07 Versys 650 riding friend, Mitch, spent the night with us last night. They've got 16 days to ride "West" and then back to Wisconsin.

They had planned to go to northern Washington, but decided that they didn't want to be playing "Dodge the Fire." We got up and were on the road a bit after 8AM this morning. Mitch and I were on our bikes in the driveway waiting for Jim to get ready. He was probably about 5-6 minutes behind me in being ready to roll. Write it down in your diaries, my friends -- I think it's the only time that's ever happened. :)

We got gas, ate a quick breakfast at McDonalds, and then took US-34 to I-25 to CO-14 in Fort Collins. After working our way through Fort Fun, we got off of US-287/CO-14 to focus our attention on CO-14, the Cache la Poudre Scenic Byway, and the 98 miles it covers to get over Cameron Pass at 12,264 feet and down to Walden in North Park.

We bought gas and I got 54mpg. We had hoped Larry Hull, my NC700X buddy would be able to go with us so he could blow us away the 80mpg figures he's been getting, but he called in to work.

We ate at the River Rock Caf?, a very nice restaurant in downtown Walden, where I had the River Rock Volcanic Eruption hamburger. When I ordered it, the waitreess told me it was the hottest hamburger (hot in the spicy sense) I was ever likely to eat. It had a scorching Habanero sauce and jalapeno peppers. She wanted me to understand that if I ordered it after her warning, I had bought it whether I could eat it or not. The first bike I took was agonizing -- I thought I had made a mistake. But I stuck with it and managed to eat it all. In addition to being very hot, it was also probably the messiest hamburger I've ever eaten.

We went on south and west to the Mile Zero marker where CO-14 starts at the intersection with US-40 at Muddy Pass, about five or ten miles from Rabbit Ears Pass. Jim and Mitch turned right and I turned left, going south toward Kremmling. About 10-15 miles north of Kremmling, I hit heavy cold rain. I had worn my 'Stitch (for the first time since last fall) and it kept me dry, but it didn't keep my warm. It rained until just as I got to Granby and turned north toward the town of Grand Lake and the west entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park. I stopped at the visitor's center before the Park and put on my waterproof gloves and my Warm'n'Save electric jacket. That made the rain stop and it even got warmer for while. But when I got above tree line and into the Arctic tundra at 12,000+ feet, the temp dropped to 50. I never turned the jacket on, but I was sure comfortable with it on.

Weekdays after the start of school are nice days to ride through the Park. I was never behind anyone who held me up except for one Chevy Cruze on top who persisted in driving at about 28mph. Speed limit is 35 and it's enforced fairly rigorously now, so I wasn't wanting to go much faster. I finally was able pass him on the outside on a long right hand curve where there was no solid yellow line.

This time of year, you don't see many critters until late in the evening when the elk start bugling. I saw one cow elk up at about 11,500 feet and that was it. In downtown Estes Park, right across from the Stanley Hotel (where "The Shining" was filmed) there was a huge bull elk laying in the shade surrounded by his harem. In Estes, the temperature was 71F; by the west side of Loveland, it was up 81F, east side of Loveland was 85, and here at the house it was 91F at 6:30.

Parenthetically, we haven't had air conditioning since the 3rd week of July. It hasn't been as bad as I would have expected, but Saturday night it was still 75 at 3:00AM. It's 72 now at 11:00 but the ceiling fan makes it bearable. The AC guy is scheduled to get here on Thursday morning. I'm ready!

I got a text message from Jim at about 7:30. He and Mitch are camping in Rangely tonight. Tomorrow they'll ride south over Douglas Pass, through the Colorado National Monument, and then take CO-141 from Whitewater through Gateway to Naturita. From there, they'll go by Telluride and ride down to Cortez and to Four Corners. Since Jim's usually riding by 6:30 or 7:00 (when he's not with me), they'll probably make all that tomorrow.
 

junglejim

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Yes Phil we had a gorgeous ride over Douglas pass this morning. The rest of the day was very good writing to all the way down to four corners. Where camp tonight at bluff Utah. About 420 miles for the day
 
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Phil Tarman

Phil Tarman

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Sounds like things are going well. I assume you both touched all four states at the same time. What a thrill!
 

junglejim

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Baker NV tonight. Riding US 50 across NV tomorrow. The. To the redwoods and CA 101.
 
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Phil Tarman

Phil Tarman

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Baker is an "outpost" that's a long way from anywhere. 75 miles or so west of Delta, UT, not far from that east of Ely, NV.

Jim, if you read this, pay attention to the mountains on your left as you ride down 50 about 8 miles or so after you top the pass west of Baker. There's a cave up there that has a limestone plug that's been protected from weathering. Back when I was in the oilfield, we had delivered a tool from Santa Rosa to Milford, UT, and saw this cave and thought the limestone looked like a cliff dwelling. When we came back a month later to pick up the tool, we had time to stop and take a look. We climbed up the hill/cliff. As we got closer to the cave we could see a sign saying "Trespassers will be shot. Property of the American Guano Company."

We couldn't see any evidence of people, so we kept going. There was a seemingly bottomless pit behind the limestone plug and we dropped a rock or two that fell for a long time before we heard them hit bottom. We found a few old rusty square nails and some old pulleys.

As we climbed back down to our truck, we found a tunnel that was dug into the side of the mountain. It had little railroad tracks, maybe 2" high and with about a 2-foot gauge and went straight back into the mountain. We had a flashlight and followed it. It crossed a natural cave a couple of hundred yards in, and past that we found an old fire-pit and maybe 12-20 really old tin cans that had been opened and used to heat their contents, plus a really old pair of blue jeans. Another 100 yards brought us to the end of the not-bottomless-after-all pit. We guessed that it had been full of guano and that they'd mined it before abandoning the mine.
 

junglejim

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Road Nevada 50 today. Finally stopped in Susanville California. 473 miles today. Headed for Eureka tomorrow.
 
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Phil Tarman

Phil Tarman

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What route did you take from Susanville to Eureka?
 

junglejim

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We rode to Crater Lake NP and on to Redmond OR.
Now we are stopped because Mitch has a broken chain. We hope to get a new one tomorrow.
 
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Phil Tarman

Phil Tarman

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Sorry to hear about the broken chain -- hope it didn't cause any other damage to the bike.
 
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Jim, I'm in Roseburg OR as I type this heading out to Crater Lake tomorrow morning and then on up to Bend and the to Astoria and back home to Port Townsend. This is lovely, lovely country isn't it?

Terry
 

junglejim

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Out of service last night in a campground in the Beaverhead mountains. We are in Dillon MT now. Headed through Yellowstont NP the eastward.
 

junglejim

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Tried a NAPA on Monday (Labor Day) then a motorcycle shop on Tuesday AM. Took 3 tries to get the right size (width) master link, which is what broke.
 
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