Spline Lube, update more questions Thank's

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DarylCincy
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mikesim

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That would be cheaper and should work just fine. Some have said it may not be as good as the Moly 60 Honda had but I bet its just as good, maybe better?
I would stick with the Honda M77 paste as it supercedes the M60 paste from Honda. Honda no longer offers the M60 so either the M77 performs better or the M60 killed a laboratory rat somewhere in California.

Mike
 
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DarylCincy
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I would stick with the Honda M77 paste as it supercedes the M60 paste from Honda. Honda no longer offers the M60 so either the M77 performs better or the M60 killed a laboratory rat somewhere in California.

Mike
Now I can believe that Mike.
 

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It was a 50-gal drum of Moly 60 and the lab rat died after being force fed about 30 gals but up to that time he sure was "regular." :) :)'
 
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DarylCincy
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Got the new tire on the wheel now some prep to get it back on the bike, cleaned the gear splines with contact cleaner, lube the wheel gear with the Honda M77 moly paste by using a chopstick. Some questions, one do you lube both gears the one on the wheel and one in the rear end housing or do you just lube one of them good enough to take care of the other when they mate back together? Last question when I removed the wheel from the swing arm I forgot to take the spacer out of the swing arm pinch clamp, what is the reason for it being in there like that, maybe more clearance to get the wheel out? any special instructions on the reinstall?
 
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mikesim

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I would lube 'em both.... better to be safe than sorry. Some things shouldn't be over lubed but driveline splines ain't one of them. Keep in mind that if you are using one of the longer lived tires ala Pilot Road/Road Smart 3 that's just that much longer the splines have to travel before they see fresh lube again.

Mike
 
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DarylCincy
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I would lube 'em both.... better to be safe than sorry. Some things shouldn't be over lubed but driveline splines ain't one of them. Keep in mind that if you are using one of the longer lived tires ala Pilot Road/Road Smart 3 that's just that much longer the splines have to travel before they see fresh lube again.

Mike
Thank's Mike more moly paste it is.
 
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DarylCincy
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Got the wheel back on no problems, was easier than expected, I did ask about that collar pinch spacer I forgot to take it out when removing the wheel it came out so I thought I just try reinstalling the new tire and wheel with it in place, nope no go, removed it and everything went together fine, I only removed the rear fender and left the muffler in place for the process.
I still have to torque everything down, here's what I get torque axle nut 66 ft lbs, then the brake stopper bolt 66 ft lbs (sounds kinda high)? last tighten collar pinch bolt 24 ft lbs.
 
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Got the new tire on the wheel now some prep to get it back on the bike, cleaned the gear splines with contact cleaner, lube the wheel gear with the Honda M77 moly paste by using a chopstick. Some questions, one do you lube both gears the one on the wheel and one in the rear end housing or do you just lube one of them good enough to take care of the other when they mate back together? Last question when I removed the wheel from the swing arm I forgot to take the spacer out of the swing arm pinch clamp, what is the reason for it being in there like that, maybe more clearance to get the wheel out? any special instructions on the reinstall?
I have found that the best way to apply Moly paste, is with a 1/2" wide paint brush. Just put some paste on the brush, and brush it into the splines. You will get 100% even coverage that way.
This is my third shaft drive and I change the hypoid every oil change. It is cheap and easy.
 
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This is my third shaft drive and I change the hypoid every oil change. It is cheap and easy.
It may be cheap and easy, but what you're doing is a waste of gear oil. The final drive oil calls for replacement at 24K, and level inspection intervals at 8K (at engine oil change). Change it every third engine oil change. The final drive oil isn't exposed to byproducts of combustion like engine oil is, there's no reason to be changing it every 8K.
 
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The brake stopper bolt is always a bear to break loose so I grease it before reinstallation. Yup, I know that's generally not a good practice but I'm not worried about it loosening on its own due to the grease since the muffler prevents it from getting completely free! And I've never used a torque wrench on that bolt.

As regards final drive oil, I've never inspected the level during an oil change because it can't go anywhere and unlike engine oil, it doesn't get consumed. And if there is a leak, it's easy visible from the outside because of the mess it creates.
 
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DarylCincy
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The brake stopper bolt is always a bear to break loose so I grease it before reinstallation. Yup, I know that's generally not a good practice but I'm not worried about it loosening on its own due to the grease since the muffler prevents it from getting completely free! And I've never used a torque wrench on that bolt.

As regards final drive oil, I've never inspected the level during an oil change because it can't go anywhere and unlike engine oil, it doesn't get consumed. And if there is a leak, it's easy visible from the outside because of the mess it creates.
Stopper bolt was not hard to get out being it had been out before I got the bike look like it may have have lock tight on it from the factory? I re installed it with waterproof grease. The rear end gear oil I drain out didn't look bad, look like it had been changed just before I got it just like Dave said when I bought it.
 
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