spacetiger
Guest
Based on the "lot of dive during braking", I would say this is a good sign, the preload isn't set right. Example:
A spring doesn't exert force unless compressed. To keep this simple, I will use a linear spring, not a progressive rate spring. If the spring has a 70lb/in rating AND you have no preload on it, your front suspension (based on a 115mm or 4.53in front suspension travel) can handle a max load of 2 x 4.53in x 70lb/in = 634 lbs before bottoming out, so your range is from 0 to 634 lbs. The bike weighs 236 kg dry, or about 555 lbs wet. With a 200lb rider, you are at 755 lbs. In a panic stop you shift weight as the front brakes will provide at least 70% of your stopping ability. Your weight will shift putting much more weight on the front suspension. The CG of the bike, among other variables, can yield a situation in a panic stop you could bottom out the suspension. Its easier to do this if you are two up and have 60lbs of stuff on the bike as you could be up to 950lbs (fully loaded with a loaded trunk etc).
If you add 1" of preload, your working range goes from 0-634lbs to 70-774lbs. This is better, but may not be enough. There is a point when you cannot add more preload to compress the spring. This is when you switch to a different spring (~$100) say a 80lb/in. With a 1" preload spacer this would give you a 80-885lb range. Its hard to tell what you need until you verify the preload setting with you on the bike. Easy to do, just add a zip tie and carefully get on the bike without bouncing it. You should only compress the suspension enough to move the zip tie up about 1". If you move it less than that (you probably less than 150lb), you have too much preload in and/or your spring is too stiff. If your zip tie moves more than 1", you need more preload and/or a beefier spring. If you are close to 2", you MUST do something, as you are using up almost half of your suspension travel just sitting still. You are probably bottoming out alot. You cannot use heavier weight oil to compensate for this.
Anyone that tells you to reduce or lengthening the preload spacer X inches and change oil to X viscosity WITHOUT telling you what they weigh means nothing to you. It could be a 140lb person telling you what works for them and their riding skill and that may not match you if you are 200lbs and ride more aggressively.
When I tell you to change the preload spacer, I am refering to the aluminum or PVC tube above the spring. You can use a piece several inches long and put no preload on the spring. You can tell you are putting a preload on the spring when it takes some effort to put the cap back on the top.
So, there is a great chance to upgrade the NT700V front suspension (41mm stanchions) as there were many Honda bikes made in the 90's and 00's using 41mm suspension starting to move to cartridges vs. damper rods. Here is a great $105 option from a 1997 VFR750 and good ebayer track record:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1997-HONDA-VFR750-FRONT-SHOCK-FORKS-TREE-STRAIGHT-/350475637083?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5199f9d15b
These forks accommodate 296mm brake discs so I bet the NT brake brackets bolt right up. I don't know the mounting pattern for the fender, but you can change to the VFR fender:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-97-Honda-VFR750-VFR-750-Front-Fender-Rim-Wheel-/180693822629?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a1230eca5
You can slide up the forks to the correct length and gain rebound damping and preload adjustments at the top of the fork, this would be a modest change. The VFR weighs about 50lbs lighter, so you are more likely to have to change the springs, but it is possible you can use your NT springs if they are matched well to your weight.
Jerry
A spring doesn't exert force unless compressed. To keep this simple, I will use a linear spring, not a progressive rate spring. If the spring has a 70lb/in rating AND you have no preload on it, your front suspension (based on a 115mm or 4.53in front suspension travel) can handle a max load of 2 x 4.53in x 70lb/in = 634 lbs before bottoming out, so your range is from 0 to 634 lbs. The bike weighs 236 kg dry, or about 555 lbs wet. With a 200lb rider, you are at 755 lbs. In a panic stop you shift weight as the front brakes will provide at least 70% of your stopping ability. Your weight will shift putting much more weight on the front suspension. The CG of the bike, among other variables, can yield a situation in a panic stop you could bottom out the suspension. Its easier to do this if you are two up and have 60lbs of stuff on the bike as you could be up to 950lbs (fully loaded with a loaded trunk etc).
If you add 1" of preload, your working range goes from 0-634lbs to 70-774lbs. This is better, but may not be enough. There is a point when you cannot add more preload to compress the spring. This is when you switch to a different spring (~$100) say a 80lb/in. With a 1" preload spacer this would give you a 80-885lb range. Its hard to tell what you need until you verify the preload setting with you on the bike. Easy to do, just add a zip tie and carefully get on the bike without bouncing it. You should only compress the suspension enough to move the zip tie up about 1". If you move it less than that (you probably less than 150lb), you have too much preload in and/or your spring is too stiff. If your zip tie moves more than 1", you need more preload and/or a beefier spring. If you are close to 2", you MUST do something, as you are using up almost half of your suspension travel just sitting still. You are probably bottoming out alot. You cannot use heavier weight oil to compensate for this.
Anyone that tells you to reduce or lengthening the preload spacer X inches and change oil to X viscosity WITHOUT telling you what they weigh means nothing to you. It could be a 140lb person telling you what works for them and their riding skill and that may not match you if you are 200lbs and ride more aggressively.
When I tell you to change the preload spacer, I am refering to the aluminum or PVC tube above the spring. You can use a piece several inches long and put no preload on the spring. You can tell you are putting a preload on the spring when it takes some effort to put the cap back on the top.
So, there is a great chance to upgrade the NT700V front suspension (41mm stanchions) as there were many Honda bikes made in the 90's and 00's using 41mm suspension starting to move to cartridges vs. damper rods. Here is a great $105 option from a 1997 VFR750 and good ebayer track record:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1997-HONDA-VFR750-FRONT-SHOCK-FORKS-TREE-STRAIGHT-/350475637083?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5199f9d15b
These forks accommodate 296mm brake discs so I bet the NT brake brackets bolt right up. I don't know the mounting pattern for the fender, but you can change to the VFR fender:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-97-Honda-VFR750-VFR-750-Front-Fender-Rim-Wheel-/180693822629?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a1230eca5
You can slide up the forks to the correct length and gain rebound damping and preload adjustments at the top of the fork, this would be a modest change. The VFR weighs about 50lbs lighter, so you are more likely to have to change the springs, but it is possible you can use your NT springs if they are matched well to your weight.
Jerry
I'm 5'11", with a 35" inseam, 170lbs. Add in the full leathers, a topcase, and a little luggage, and I'm probably exceeding the design weight for a solo rider on an OEM Japanese motorcycle suspension.
