I just bought my 2010 NT with 3800 miles on it. It had never had the valves checked or adjusted, so I ordered the Service Manual and started reading everything on this site I could find about how to do your own valve check. Here are a couple things I found:
I finally got around to doing the check at 4200 miles.
From everything I had read I expected that loosening the front throttle body band clamp would be the hardest part. I followed someone's suggestion of using an 8mm deep socket with a 1/4" drive. I used that on both front and rear clamps and it worked quite well. It was a little tight up against a hose when doing the front clamp, and a little hard to see if was on the nut. I actually went to the opposite side of the bike where I could see the threaded part of the clamp bolt and could tell if I was on the head and if it was turning. One thing I would do in the future is to somehow cut 1/4" off the deep socket. That would give easier room to maneuver.
I also used a web strap to go up and over my rear Top Box and hook to the gas tank to hold it up. That worked well, gave me plenty of room to work, and I didn't have to disconnect and remove the tank
I used a SILVER Sharpie Marker to make corresponding lines and marks on just about EVERYTHING I removed or disconnected. That way I knew exactly where things were supposed to line up when reassembling. It took a lot of guess work out of things.
There was a 2-lead wire on the right side...I think it connected near the right rear side of the air box. Once disconnected that wire wanted to drop down out of sight...which could easily be missed on reassembly. I used some masking tape to tape it to a hose on the right side so I couldn't miss it when putting everything back together.
On removing the throttle body once the bands were loosened I just disconnected the wires and hoses that were necessary to simply lift, turn, and rest it on the left frame rail. I didn't have anyone to hold it for me, so I used about 3' of duct tape to hold it in place, out of the way. There were also some wires that went into a round, hard plastic encasement that were in a "C" shaped clamp on the air box. After unclipping that I duct taped it out of the way also. Worked great.
I read a post that someone had "nicked" the gaskets when removing the the valve covers, so I was being very careful. The rear cover was easy, but the front was a different story. It was very had to wiggle the front cover out without scraping it across things. On reassembly I saw that if I removed the rubber (or plastic) boot that has the clamp to hold the throttle body in place it was easy to slide the cover back without hitting stuff. It was only two bolts to remove that piece (don't forget to plug it with a rag or something). WAY better than later finding you have an oil leak and having to go back an replace the gasket.
One HUGE tip I read was to tie string to the feeler gauge. I did that and it helped a ton when checking the front cylinder exhaust valves. Due to the tight working space I dropped the gauge several times and the string made retrieving it quick and easy.
Next time I will invest in a 10mm off-set box wrench for doing the valve adjustment. All I had was a socket, and it took a lot more time because the set screw would move when tightening. BY THE WAY...SIX OUT OF EIGHT VALVES were OUT of adjustment! They were all too tight to get the feeler gauge in between. The only ones that were in spec were the two intake valves on the rear cylinder.
Of course.
Those would have been the easiest to adjust.
I couldn't find anywhere what size allen wrench to use to open the access cap for the crankshaft on the left side. I didn't have one quite big enough was all I knew. The cap for Viewing the flywheel to see the F/T and R/T marks is a 6mm.
I had to run to get a bigger allen wrench because it was torqued down real tight and I didn't want to risk stripping it. It turned out to be a 10mm hex.
Lastly, and I would appreciate any comments on this; after making the adjustments the engine is noticeably noisier. A distinct "ticking" sound can be heard, even after warm up. I know everyone said to err on the side of adjusting the valves slightly loose. I tried to get them all right on. I'm wondering if it's because 6 of 8 were tight, the ticking is normal now that they are adjusted correctly. Anyone?
Sorry this is so lengthy but I wanted to try to give understandable detail.
Thanks!
Tim (The T-Weeder Guy)
I finally got around to doing the check at 4200 miles.
From everything I had read I expected that loosening the front throttle body band clamp would be the hardest part. I followed someone's suggestion of using an 8mm deep socket with a 1/4" drive. I used that on both front and rear clamps and it worked quite well. It was a little tight up against a hose when doing the front clamp, and a little hard to see if was on the nut. I actually went to the opposite side of the bike where I could see the threaded part of the clamp bolt and could tell if I was on the head and if it was turning. One thing I would do in the future is to somehow cut 1/4" off the deep socket. That would give easier room to maneuver.
I also used a web strap to go up and over my rear Top Box and hook to the gas tank to hold it up. That worked well, gave me plenty of room to work, and I didn't have to disconnect and remove the tank
I used a SILVER Sharpie Marker to make corresponding lines and marks on just about EVERYTHING I removed or disconnected. That way I knew exactly where things were supposed to line up when reassembling. It took a lot of guess work out of things.
There was a 2-lead wire on the right side...I think it connected near the right rear side of the air box. Once disconnected that wire wanted to drop down out of sight...which could easily be missed on reassembly. I used some masking tape to tape it to a hose on the right side so I couldn't miss it when putting everything back together.
On removing the throttle body once the bands were loosened I just disconnected the wires and hoses that were necessary to simply lift, turn, and rest it on the left frame rail. I didn't have anyone to hold it for me, so I used about 3' of duct tape to hold it in place, out of the way. There were also some wires that went into a round, hard plastic encasement that were in a "C" shaped clamp on the air box. After unclipping that I duct taped it out of the way also. Worked great.
I read a post that someone had "nicked" the gaskets when removing the the valve covers, so I was being very careful. The rear cover was easy, but the front was a different story. It was very had to wiggle the front cover out without scraping it across things. On reassembly I saw that if I removed the rubber (or plastic) boot that has the clamp to hold the throttle body in place it was easy to slide the cover back without hitting stuff. It was only two bolts to remove that piece (don't forget to plug it with a rag or something). WAY better than later finding you have an oil leak and having to go back an replace the gasket.
One HUGE tip I read was to tie string to the feeler gauge. I did that and it helped a ton when checking the front cylinder exhaust valves. Due to the tight working space I dropped the gauge several times and the string made retrieving it quick and easy.
Next time I will invest in a 10mm off-set box wrench for doing the valve adjustment. All I had was a socket, and it took a lot more time because the set screw would move when tightening. BY THE WAY...SIX OUT OF EIGHT VALVES were OUT of adjustment! They were all too tight to get the feeler gauge in between. The only ones that were in spec were the two intake valves on the rear cylinder.
Of course.
Those would have been the easiest to adjust.
I couldn't find anywhere what size allen wrench to use to open the access cap for the crankshaft on the left side. I didn't have one quite big enough was all I knew. The cap for Viewing the flywheel to see the F/T and R/T marks is a 6mm.
I had to run to get a bigger allen wrench because it was torqued down real tight and I didn't want to risk stripping it. It turned out to be a 10mm hex.
Lastly, and I would appreciate any comments on this; after making the adjustments the engine is noticeably noisier. A distinct "ticking" sound can be heard, even after warm up. I know everyone said to err on the side of adjusting the valves slightly loose. I tried to get them all right on. I'm wondering if it's because 6 of 8 were tight, the ticking is normal now that they are adjusted correctly. Anyone?
Sorry this is so lengthy but I wanted to try to give understandable detail.
Thanks!
Tim (The T-Weeder Guy)
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