Honda Type 2 Coolant: Really need to be changed every 2 years or 24k miles ??

ett

ett

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First sorry for not being a very active member. Life happens, priorities change. :confused:

I've been searching online. But have not found any answers to the following.

When using Honda Type 2 Coolant automotive coolant; instead of motorcycle specific, overpriced, exact same product, Pro Honda HP Coolant; in NT.

Does the coolant really need to be changed per NT service manual specifications of every 2 years or 24k miles ?
Why shouldn't coolant be changed as per interval specified on bottle of every 5 years or 60k miles ?
Could the 2 years or every 24k miles be a throw back to before long life coolants were created ?
Does a motorcycle's low volume cooling system somehow degrade coolant quicker than an automobile's higher volume cooling system ?

With so much of NT's old, getting brittle, plastic bodywork needing to be removed for doing a coolant change.
I'd like to reduce the amount of times I must remove it.

Thanks,
--ET
 
Any non-silicate coolant can be used. It is very important that you verify that the coolant does not contain silicates.

I personally use PEAK 50/50 prediluted in many of my bikes over the years.

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While Bruce is correct, I use the Honda stuff. The two year change interval is ridiculas. Like changing the plugs on an FJR every 10,000. Its a way to change the volume of your wallet. My Subaru Forester manual says change at the first 11 years or 137,500 miles, and every six years after that.

In days of yore deep in the last century, there were Iron engine blocks and poor quality coolant. Things had to be flushed. The quality of motor oil was pretty bad too and we changed it every 3.000 miles. BTW, you didnt hear this from me, but there are ways to shortcut the coolant change process. You might not get 100 percent of the old coolant out but in the real world, it doesnt matter....it will be quick and easy and give you a warm fuzzy feeling.
 
I too believe that the two year interval is excessive. I did my first change at two and saw that the drained coolant still looked pristine so the next go 'round I changed at four, still didn't look bad. I'm sticking with four though because you can't eyeball the strength of the chemistry. As a money saving note, Zerex makes an Asian Blue formula as does Beck-Arnley which is an exact duplicate of the Honda formulation at considerable savings.

Mike
 
mikesim said:
I too believe that the two year interval is excessive. I did my first change at two and saw that the drained coolant still looked pristine so the next go 'round I changed at four, still didn't look bad. I'm sticking with four though because you can't eyeball the strength of the chemistry. As a money saving note, Zerex makes an Asian Blue formula as does Beck-Arnley which is an exact duplicate of the Honda formulation at considerable savings.

Mike
Click to expand...

I've used the Zerex blue in my NT, no issues, available at my local Farm and Fleet. Sticking with the blue makes checking the reservoir easy too.
 
At least for me, it's nearly impossible to tell how much fluid is in the overflow reservoir. I looked at it recently and found it was empty (!) so I refilled it, using a flashlight to check the depth.
 
mikesim said:
I too believe that the two year interval is excessive. I did my first change at two and saw that the drained coolant still looked pristine so the next go 'round I changed at four, still didn't look bad. I'm sticking with four though because you can't eyeball the strength of the chemistry. As a money saving note, Zerex makes an Asian Blue formula as does Beck-Arnley which is an exact duplicate of the Honda formulation at considerable savings.

Mike
Click to expand...

Cool !

With those four year coolant change intervals.
I assume you are not exceeding the NT service manual's 24k mile limit.
And since you did not mention any issues. I assume you did not have any coolant related issues like water pump failure.

Are my two assumptions correct ?

Thanks;
--ET
 
ett said:
Cool !

With those four year coolant change intervals.
I assume you are not exceeding the NT service manual's 24k mile limit.
And since you did not mention any issues. I assume you did not have any coolant related issues like water pump failure.

Are my two assumptions correct ?

Thanks;
--ET
Click to expand...

You will be fine. A quick indicator is to look for changes in the color of the coolant. If you notice a significant change in the color, drain it and replace it.

Also, always stick with the same brand and color of coolants. I do not mix different colors as this could give false indications of cooling system issues.

When I bought my truck used the dealer mixed red and green coolants together and the result was a brown fluid. I was forced into a coolant flush and had the proper OEM Red coolant installed, $175 later... :mad:
 
DirtFlier said:
At least for me, it's nearly impossible to tell how much fluid is in the overflow reservoir. I looked at it recently and found it was empty (!) so I refilled it, using a flashlight to check the depth.
Click to expand...
Yup! I also have a difficult time seeing the level without a bright flashlight.

Mike
 
ett said:
I assume you are not exceeding the NT service manual's 24k mile limit.
And since you did not mention any issues. I assume you did not have any coolant related issues like water pump failure.
Are my two assumptions correct ?
Click to expand...

changed mine about at 100K, then rode to 201,111 miles. 6 yrs 10 months, so about 3.5 yrs on each cycle of coolant
 
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Woodaddict said:
changed mine about at 100K, then rode to 201,111 miles. 6 yrs 10 months, so about 3.5 yrs on each cycle of coolant
Click to expand...

I guess the way you stretched your coolant, you're really lucky that the silver NT's engine managed to survive for as many miles as it did. You escaped a major engine catastrophe by the skin of your teeth!! šŸ˜²šŸ˜²
 
DirtFlier said:
At least for me, it's nearly impossible to tell how much fluid is in the overflow reservoir. I looked at it recently and found it was empty (!) so I refilled it, using a flashlight to check the depth.
Click to expand...
I find this a pet peeve of mine. And its not only on the NT. A carefully placed strong light can help with the level.
 
ett said:
Cool !

With those four year coolant change intervals.
I assume you are not exceeding the NT service manual's 24k mile limit.
And since you did not mention any issues. I assume you did not have any coolant related issues like water pump failure.

Are my two assumptions correct ?

Thanks;
--ET
Click to expand...
Alot of people overthink things like this cause once upon a time, they were very important....now most people dont even check the tire pressure of the spare in their trunk. The blue antifreeze is good enough to go 100,000 miles in a Subaru. The waterpump is safe.
Some cars and bikes have an issue with it being hard to fill up all the space in the system and have to be burped in this or that way. special plugs may have to be removed. I think the VFR might be like that. Dont forget to keep checking the over flow tank for level no matter if you are going to change part or all of the fluid.
 
JustPassinThru said:
Not unlike changing the oil on the road, with some bikes, with either a suction pump or by laying it over to empty the crankcase out the fill neck.

You don't get it all out, but that's not the point. ENOUGH of the contaminated stuff is out, and fresh stuff in, that most of the benefits are realized.
Click to expand...
There is this lore that the best way to change oil is to heat it up, then pull the drain plug and you will get more out of the engine. If your bike sits all night in the garage and all the oil drains down to the crank case and you pull the plug and eat breakfast, when you come back and fill it, its just as good. Oil is one of those things that has improved many fold over the last 50 years. I change it twice a year on each bike since its so cheep. Summer weight in the summer when the good riding starts and winter weight before Thanksgiving.
I am trying to remember if I ever had to change oil on the road......when change intervals were only 3,000 miles, I might have.....back in the 1970s I always changed before a trip....
 
I believe some of the older Honda manuals showed how to check the specific gravity of the coolant.
 
Coyote Chris said:
Who is old enough to remember taking the specific gravity of antifreeze?
Click to expand...

Yup. Did that decades ago. Back when all antifreeze was all the same green stuff.
Quit doing it once I realized that only checked the antifreeze's freeze protection and no other properties; such as anti-corrosion protection.
AND when vehicles (specifically motorcycles) made it impossible to access radiator cap without removing much bodywork.
 
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