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- Thread starter Phil Tarman
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Point of interest on FZ1, yes it can handle 30 amps, but only 10 per each pole. Only reason I say this is that just about 3 hours ago my farkler and I wee discussing this vry subject and pulled up the FZ1 on the computer. . It plainly states the 10 amp per each fuse pole , We were wanting to use 20 amp fuses for some items that called for thatamount , now we are boing a alternate route.I don't claim to be a good electrictian , I can solder wires etc but when it comes to understanding all the therey I make a good ditch digger!
Eldon
Eldon
The FZ-1 does only support 10 Amps per fuse. I've never even used a 10 Amp fuse to date. I'm curious, what are you putting on a bike that pulls 20 Amps and what gauge wire are you running to support it?
OP
OP
Part of the reason I had wired to the battery instead of the Fuzeblock was that I wasn't sure it could handle the juice my jacket required. But when I start thinking about amperage, I realize that the jacket is the biggest draw of anything I've got on the bike and it's just a little bit over 7.5A. I'll get everything running through the Fuzeblock.
Phil,
I plug in my heated jacket into the SAE connection that comes directly off the battery, which I mainly use as my battery tender connection and to run my tire pump. I only use the Fuzeblock for lower draw accessories, such as my Denali lights, Hyperlites, GPS, etc.
I plug in my heated jacket into the SAE connection that comes directly off the battery, which I mainly use as my battery tender connection and to run my tire pump. I only use the Fuzeblock for lower draw accessories, such as my Denali lights, Hyperlites, GPS, etc.
OP
OP
The D1 Denalis pull 10W per side, so 20W/12V=1.7Amps. I think I can run them through the Fuzeblock.
mikesim
Site Supporter
Speakin' of Denali's. I think I'm gonna put a set on Traveller this year. You have yours mounted on the front fender mounts, right? How has that worked out for you? I'm either gonna put 'em there or below the tip over wings.
Mike
OP
OP
Mike, I really like the fender mounting. For one thing, it gives me a large "triangle" of light day and night. I've been told by many people that they really catch attention when I'm moving -- several people in Fort Morgan told me that they wished all motorcycle had something like them, because it was easier for them to both see me and judge my distance and speed.
Some people say that lower mounting of the lights cuts down on the aid they give the rider at night, but since I aimed my headlight correctly, I've been very pleased with the distance that I can see at night. I'd guess that I would see deer at over a quarter a mile away. I can see the highway mileage markers at 7-9/10ths of a mile. Curve markers, highway identification signs and the like show up at a mile or so.
The Denalis have made me comfortable with riding at night. I know the risk factors amp up with wildlife, etc., but I've ridden a lot of miles at night and have pleased with how well I can see. My old Concour had a 130V high beam (which wasn't legal for on-road use, but I never got stopped) and I PIAA driving lights that were 35W each. The NT with it's two 55W bulbs have a better headlight than the Connie did and the 10W Denali LEDs are way better than the 35W halogen PIAAs.
When I mounted the Denalis, I was dubious about their ability to stay aimed correctly when mounted on an unsprung part of the bike. But I've never had to re-aim them except for times when someone has bumped them and knocked them out of whack.
Someone mentioned using Loctite on the mounting bolts and having their fender disintegrate, but that is known result of using Loctite near plastic of many different kinds. So, if you mount them on the fenders, DON'T USE LOCTITE!!
Some people say that lower mounting of the lights cuts down on the aid they give the rider at night, but since I aimed my headlight correctly, I've been very pleased with the distance that I can see at night. I'd guess that I would see deer at over a quarter a mile away. I can see the highway mileage markers at 7-9/10ths of a mile. Curve markers, highway identification signs and the like show up at a mile or so.
The Denalis have made me comfortable with riding at night. I know the risk factors amp up with wildlife, etc., but I've ridden a lot of miles at night and have pleased with how well I can see. My old Concour had a 130V high beam (which wasn't legal for on-road use, but I never got stopped) and I PIAA driving lights that were 35W each. The NT with it's two 55W bulbs have a better headlight than the Connie did and the 10W Denali LEDs are way better than the 35W halogen PIAAs.
When I mounted the Denalis, I was dubious about their ability to stay aimed correctly when mounted on an unsprung part of the bike. But I've never had to re-aim them except for times when someone has bumped them and knocked them out of whack.
Someone mentioned using Loctite on the mounting bolts and having their fender disintegrate, but that is known result of using Loctite near plastic of many different kinds. So, if you mount them on the fenders, DON'T USE LOCTITE!!
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I second the "triangle of lights" effect. It makes the bike MUCH more visible and also makes it obvious it is a bike and not a car with one headlight/taillight out.
I also have a triangle in the back with trunk and two tail lights, but, mine is kinda overkill, using truck trailer lights for the back
The part about my aux lights up front that I like is the beam spread wide to the sides. Lets me see the little beady retroreflectors that critters have for eyes. And, the wide beam also keeps corners lit when the bike is leaned over. Mine on the Goose are not as low as Phil's. When I had the NT I mounted them under the tip over wings and they did a nice job there (but they were 'exposed' to tip overs).
I also have a triangle in the back with trunk and two tail lights, but, mine is kinda overkill, using truck trailer lights for the back
The part about my aux lights up front that I like is the beam spread wide to the sides. Lets me see the little beady retroreflectors that critters have for eyes. And, the wide beam also keeps corners lit when the bike is leaned over. Mine on the Goose are not as low as Phil's. When I had the NT I mounted them under the tip over wings and they did a nice job there (but they were 'exposed' to tip overs).
I wonder who could that have been.........can certainly vouch for that. Only cost me $350 for a new fender!
DAMHIK.....
I also looked at it Wayne and I agree. I talked with my tech earler today what he ended up doing was running the 20 amp fuses very close to the lights and then on back to the fuse bloc. He said that the harness that came to the dealership from TT had them that way, I don't remember but the harness we pulled from NT was that way. LOL that was three years ago and I have trouble remembering 3 days ago!! We have one 10 Gauge wire coming off the Battery to the Fuze block and ground from fuze block to the frame. I do have the battery tended SAE also coming off the battery , everything else is from fuse block Anyway we erred on the side of caution, and I never had any problems with the lighting on the NT.
Eldon
OP
OP
BTW, I noticed that the fuse on the battery tender is only a 7.5A fuse, so I guess it would be safe to go through an unswitched circuit on the Fuzeblock with it, too.
Yes, it works fine that way. I ran it that way on both the NT and the GT.
By the way...100 posts for a thread that started with a dead battery...VERY cool!
OP
OP
Patrick, a goodly percentage of those were about radar detectors and laser jammers. Not sure how it took that twist.
Because that's how every thread should drift
I was thinking about your situation yesterday as I put the goose in the shop for some 'upgrades'. Took the battery out to put in the house and noticed it is almost 3 years old. Thought of your dead battery and thought I should probably think about getting a new one. FWIW, part of my 'upgrades' are to redo the wiring in the front end to clean up a lot of the bird nest that is there now. Add a couple connectors, relocate the ign switch, add a Powerlet connection as well as install a GPS in the dash (and install bar risers, new throttle, new master cylinder, make tool box for the back, etc).
I was thinking about your situation yesterday as I put the goose in the shop for some 'upgrades'. Took the battery out to put in the house and noticed it is almost 3 years old. Thought of your dead battery and thought I should probably think about getting a new one. FWIW, part of my 'upgrades' are to redo the wiring in the front end to clean up a lot of the bird nest that is there now. Add a couple connectors, relocate the ign switch, add a Powerlet connection as well as install a GPS in the dash (and install bar risers, new throttle, new master cylinder, make tool box for the back, etc).
bicyclist
Guest
Either the thread has ballooned to the point where I missed the resolution, or the bike hasn't been fixed, yet. I'm curious about the condition of the R/R and the stator.
Overheated stators seem to be problems on a lot of bikes. The Versys is notorious for failures. BMW redesigned the alternator in the F800ST because of numerous failures. Rick's Motorsports is a well regarded source of aftermarket stators and repair/rewinding services.
http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com
Overheated stators seem to be problems on a lot of bikes. The Versys is notorious for failures. BMW redesigned the alternator in the F800ST because of numerous failures. Rick's Motorsports is a well regarded source of aftermarket stators and repair/rewinding services.
http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com
OP
OP
George, the bike is still in the shop. I had cracked the battery posts when I put the battery back in the bike (still haven't figured out how I did that, but I knew something wasn't right when I got it back together). One end of the regulator melted, apparently because I didn't have a steady connection to the battery.
Honda backordered the regulator/rectifier. I was ready to order one from Bike Bandit (they showed one in stock), but the service manager called me this morning and said it would be shipped Friday. Since this is a cold, miserable week and the weekend doesn't look too great either, I can wait for it to get here.
I went to Rick's site and he didn't have a regulator/rectifier listed for the NT.
Honda backordered the regulator/rectifier. I was ready to order one from Bike Bandit (they showed one in stock), but the service manager called me this morning and said it would be shipped Friday. Since this is a cold, miserable week and the weekend doesn't look too great either, I can wait for it to get here.
I went to Rick's site and he didn't have a regulator/rectifier listed for the NT.
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