NT700V LED Headlight Conversion For Under $30

[Brillot2000]

Here are follow up pictures to the previous video.


Simple Drop-In Replacements.



A perfect fit deep inside the cavity. The stock dust covers can be used with these.


These bulbs are "Polarity Sensitive", they will not work if the polarity is reversed.



High Beam is on the bottom.


Low Beam is on the Top.

Let me know if you have any further questions regarding these LED Replacement Bulbs.

AUTENS LED Headlight Bulbs H7 Headlight Conversion Kit 6000 K - Amazon $43

 

[Pbro63]

Here are follow up pictures to the previous video.


Simple Drop-In Replacements.



A perfect fit deep inside the cavity. The stock dust covers can be used with these.


These bulbs are "Polarity Sensitive", they will not work if the polarity is reversed.



High Beam is on the bottom.


Low Beam is on the Top.

Let me know if you have any further questions regarding these LED Replacement Bulbs.

AUTENS LED Headlight Bulbs H7 Headlight Conversion Kit 6000 K - Amazon $43

I wish I had read this before replacing my LEDs with ones that necessitated tearing the boots in back.
Thanks for posting all the same.

 

[Sunny]

I posted the results of my functional testing using the removed headlight assembly that had. I also took pictures of the bulbs and the headlight assembly. This video will speak a lot louder than those images.

AUTENS LED Headlight Bulbs H7 Headlight Conversion Kit 6000 K

Request granted.

The proof is in the pudding.

that is a cool video and the light look awesome ... the beam patern and cut off look good to me

1Q) Does DIVA have LED or Normal bulbs, a side by side comparison will be awesome ...

 

[Brillot2000]

that is a cool video and the light look awesome ... the beam patern and cut off look good to me

1Q) Does DIVA have LED or Normal bulbs, a side by side comparison will be awesome ...

DIVA or should I say her previous alter ego NaTalie received the LED conversation mentioned earlier in this thread. These new LED Bulbs are brighter by a factor of 3 based on the manufacturers Lumens ratings of both these units.

Due to the fact that DIVA currently has LED Headlights installed and I know for fact the LED Bulbs showcased in the video are much brighter. I personally do not see a point to do a side-by-side comparison. The result speak from themselves as they were installed in a NT700V headlight assembly. Well, that’s what the data is telling me.

 

[Sunny]

DIVA or should I say her previous alter ego NaTalie received the LED conversation mentioned earlier in this thread. These new LED Bulbs are brighter by a factor of 3 based on the manufacturers Lumens ratings of both these units.

Due to the fact that DIVA currently has LED Headlights installed and I know for fact the LED Bulbs showcased in the video are much brighter. I personally do not see a point to do a side-by-side comparison. The result speak from themselves as they were installed in a NT700V headlight assembly. Well, that’s what the data is telling me.

thats cool that is one easy farkle to be added to my growing list of mods to my 2 bikes... waiting for warm weather now ..........

 

[Brillot2000]

I had to order a replacement headlamp cable harness with the stock dust caps. Once I receive it I will be installing these H7 LED Bulbs to DIVA. This cable harness could arrive at the end of next week or the following week after. I’m unsure at this point.

I will keep you all posted of my progress.

 

[Coyote Chris]

I think in a previous post to your last one, you answered my question. The power used by the led light is not dramatically less than OEM. Motorcycle regulators by and large are designed to burn up any un used watts as heat. A certain amount of power comes out of the stator at a given speed and the regulator has to deal with it. Some motorcycle regulators and their heat sinks are problematic as it is...like the 5-6 gen VFRs....but I havent heard of issues with the NT regulator and lower current usage. I see no issues here.

 

[Brillot2000]

I think in a previous post to your last one, you answered my question. The power used by the led light is not dramatically less than OEM. Motorcycle regulators by and large are designed to burn up any un used watts as heat. A certain amount of power comes out of the stator at a given speed and the regulator has to deal with it. Some motorcycle regulators and their heat sinks are problematic as it is...like the 5-6 gen VFRs....but I havent heard of issues with the NT regulator and lower current usage. I see no issues here.

What you are describing is the older voltage regulation methods used in the 1970s and early 1980s was known as Crowbar Regulation where the voltage regulator dumps all the excess current to ground. Then the stator was always outputting at full power. When more control electronics were becoming more widely used on vehicles this type of voltage regulation method had to change. These systems create a lot of electronic noise that affects sensitive electronics. Voltage regulation methods were then changed to active electronic controls where the output voltages were monitored and the electronics metered the current output accordingly and based on demand.

I would not be surprised if it takes over 15 Amps to run all the bikes systems. That would equal to about 210 Watts with the operating system voltage of 14 VDC when running.

As previously mentioned in one on my previous post. I have been running entire LED Lighting for over 3 years now. Before the pandemic I was riding my NT 4 days a week, rotating in my other bikes on Friday. I never had any issues with the charging system. Both the headlights and the driving lights helped to keep the current drains equal to that of a stock 2 halogen bulbs. The turn signals have load stabilization resistors across each bulb to prevent the hyper flash from occurring. The drain is nearly identical to that of an incandescent bulb.

 

[MaxPete]

Brillot2000:

I would like to say that I think you have done a fine job in documenting what is definitely a useful and worthwhile improvement to the NT. If you are approaching another vehicle, I am confident that you are courteous and would dip you high-beam to the low-beam setting.

I'll be keeping this thread on-file for when (if) I find my own NT700V.

Well done!

Pete

 

[Coyote Chris]

What you are describing is the older voltage regulation methods used in the 1970s and early 1980s was known as Crowbar Regulation where the voltage regulator dumps all the excess current to ground. Then the stator was always outputting at full power. When more control electronics were becoming more widely used on vehicles this type of voltage regulation method had to change. These systems create a lot of electronic noise that affects sensitive electronics. Voltage regulation methods were then changed to active electronic controls where the output voltages were monitored and the electronics metered the current output accordingly and based on demand.

I would not be surprised if it takes over 15 Amps to run all the bikes systems. That would equal to about 210 Watts with the operating system voltage of 14 VDC when running.

As previously mentioned in one on my previous post. I have been running entire LED Lighting for over 3 years now. Before the pandemic I was riding my NT 4 days a week, rotating in my other bikes on Friday. I never had any issues with the charging system. Both the headlights and the driving lights helped to keep the current drains equal to that of a stock 2 halogen bulbs. The turn signals have load stabilization resistors across each bulb to prevent the hyper flash from occurring. The drain is nearly identical to that of an incandescent bulb.

I respectfully disagree, and below you will find how the regulator has to shunt power to ground, burning it up in the heat sink as heat. Note that there is no feedback mechanism to the stator. All power from the stator must be delt with by the regulator. See pic and article. Just to show you I am not just another pretty face, I hold a license to repair Aircraft Electronics, and a license to teach electronics and for 30 years I repaired police electronics. And if you get a transistor too hot, its not gonna be happy.

Technical Article: How a Motorcycle Charging System Works - ElectroSpo

ELECTROSPORT presents a Technical Article explaining in detail how a motorcycle charging system works.

www.electrosport.com

 

[Brillot2000]

I respectfully disagree, and below you will find how the regulator has to shunt power to ground, burning it up in the heat sink as heat. Note that there is no feedback mechanism to the stator. All power from the stator must be delt with by the regulator. See pic and article. Just to show you I am not just another pretty face, I hold a license to repair Aircraft Electronics, and a license to teach electronics and for 30 years I repaired police electronics. And if you get a transistor too hot, its not gonna be happy.

Technical Article: How a Motorcycle Charging System Works - ElectroSpo

ELECTROSPORT presents a Technical Article explaining in detail how a motorcycle charging system works.

www.electrosport.com

I must respectfully respond with that the are several different types of voltage regulation methods employed for different types of systems. The "Shunt" method is one of the most widely used of many applications. All I am saying that is not the only method used on motorcycles with a permanent magnet rotor. I replaced the old shut type on my Honda 1975 CB360T with an electronic all-in-one rectifier/regulator unit. I measured the DC output and it varied based on the load demand. The OEM setup output current did not vary one bit and it was constant. The replacement unit had a minimum current draw of 1 Amp to be able to operate. I also checked the input AC current as it was a single-phase stator. The current varied as well based on load. The OEM shunt regulator, which was a separate module had a constant current draw from the stator and followed the full power shunt total loss method and it hardly trickled any power into the battery.

For this application, I needed all the power available to be able to run a halogen headlight 55/60W. The stock headlight was a 35/35W incandescent bulb type. I also installed all other LED Lighting to help the Halogen upgrade to work. I ran that setup for about 6 out of the 10 years I had that bike. I never had an issue with it.

Shunt regulators are more economical when compared to other types and they are widely used. I will not disagree with you regarding that.

 

[Coyote Chris]

I must respectfully respond with that the are several different types of voltage regulation methods employed for different types of systems. The "Shunt" method is one of the most widely used of many applications. All I am saying that is not the only method used on motorcycles with a permanent magnet rotor. I replaced the old shut type on my Honda 1975 CB360T with an electronic all-in-one rectifier/regulator unit. I measured the DC output and it varied based on the load demand. The OEM setup output current did not vary one bit and it was constant. The replacement unit had a minimum current draw of 1 Amp to be able to operate. I also checked the input AC current as it was a single-phase stator. The current varied as well based on load. The OEM shunt regulator, which was a separate module had a constant current draw from the stator and followed the full power shunt total loss method and it hardly trickled any power into the battery.

For this application, I needed all the power available to be able to run a halogen headlight 55/60W. The stock headlight was a 35/35W incandescent bulb type. I also installed all other LED Lighting to help the Halogen upgrade to work. I ran that setup for about 6 out of the 10 years I had that bike. I never had an issue with it.

Shunt regulators are more economical when compared to other types and they are widely used. I will not disagree with you regarding that.

Thanks! I would love to see the schematic of a modern motorcycle rectifier/regulator using the standard stator, yet it keeps a constant voltage without dumping current to ground. With computer controls now, in the 21st century, a constant voltage is pretty important.

 

[Brillot2000]

A quick update. I received the replacement OEM headlamp cable. I examined it closely and I have determined that the polarity of the connectors will need to be reversed to be comparable with the LED Bulbs that I called out in my earlier post.

The inner contact is removable following a specific procedure, which I am working on to figuring out share with you all and those desiring to install these LED bulbs. I am currently working out a procedure that you all could use to swap these contacts within these 2 connector housings.

 

[Brillot2000]

Motorcycle headlights, whether H4 or these two-pronged variants, always have the polarity reversed. On H4s, the high and low beam circuits are reversed but the ground remains the same. On these, I guess, they're just switched.

I'm guessing they do it with H4s because makers didn't want automotive halogen bulbs, with the lead caps, used in bikes, or vice versa. Not sure why they're doing this with two-prong lights - since with halogens, it wouldn't matter in installation.

I came across something similar when putting an LED H4 in my XT250. I just made two short patch lines, a spaded lug at one end, and a female connector on the other. Wires both an inch long. As it happened, the wiring was to plug into a lead into the ballast, not into the light assembly itself, so I had some flexibility and room.

Plugged it in, taped it up, secured the ballast unit (square metal box) and it's worked fine. I would expect two patch leads would do the same thing here...or, if you're brave, you could cut the headlight power lead, and soldier connectors on, and just reverse them in connecting for the LED. If/when you go back or the next bulb has a conventional circuit, you could reverse it again.

A 2-node filament bulb has no polarity nor does a 3 node bulb as the filament is basically a wire. In this case where the common is located makes a difference between the intensities or beams in the case of the H4 Bulb.

While LEDs are polarity sensitive unless there’s an automatic polarity circuit built in.

A ran an outfit called BulbsThatLast4Ever for nearly 15 years. Where I designed, manufactured, and distributed Custom LED Boards for motorcycles. So, this a subject I know very well.

 

[Brillot2000]

I boiled it down to the following images without too much explanation that this time.

Changing the Polarity:




Extracting the Wire Contacts From the Housings:




I sacrificed both the housings on the Replacement OEM headlamp cable that I ordered to figure out this procedure. I managed to locate the OEM-selected cable housings from a popular well known electronic component distributor. I will be ordering 10 of these housings. 2 of which will be used to replace my damaged ones. Anyone interested in performing this LED Conversion can purchase a set of my spare housings from me. It will make the modification go a lot smoother. The plastic could be dry and brittle.

Let me know if any of you have any further questions regarding any of this information or require further clarification.

 

[Brillot2000]

For those of want to go the easy route and replace the housings by cutting the locking tab off.



Slip the entire width of the blade beneath the connect and the housing to cut the locking tab. Thus the reason for the weapon of last resort. This will require the replacement of the housing. Then you should be able to pull out the wires effortlessly. If not, repeat the process again and then for each contact per housing.

New replacement housings can be found at this vendor on-line - Mouser.com - Tyco/AMP 965430-1 Housing. These cost $0.47 each for 1-9 pieces. Their shipping charge is $7.99 for either UPS, FedEx, or USPS Priority Mail. You may also want to add an Apex Tool Hobby Knife for $3.40 to your order. If you do not already have a hobby knife with a sharp blade.

PLEASE NOTE: That the insertion of the contact into the new housing will require some force to make it lock into position. Using a tool like a flat blade screwdriver to push the contact in will help greatly. There may or may not be an audible click or anything felt. Do not be alarmed if the contact comes out in front of the housing. The contact is designed to float freely when installed into the housing.

 

[Phil Tarman]

Hey, Bruce, wanna' drop by my place and connect my Clearwater Darla driving lights?

 

[Brillot2000]

Hey, Bruce, wanna' drop by my place and connect my Clearwater Darla driving lights?

Sorry Phil. I do not have any plans anything soon of being in your neck of the woods. Be sides I couldn’t bring every possible tool I’d need to perform your installation.

Whom did the install on Dudley and Horse?

I would recommend you get the accessory sub-harness, the bike doesn’t have one already. Honda NT700V Accessory Sub-harness. It will make connecting accessory power a lot and it will be switch by the ignition switch. No forgetting to turn it off and a dead battery.

Mechanic mounting is a whole different sorry. If these have included mounts, then you’re halfway there. If not, that will take a bit longer to figure out and to mount.

 

[Phil Tarman]

Bruce, the mounting is no issue. I've got a Fuzeblock where I'll connect to a switched outlet. My biggest anxiety is around finding the place to connect to high beam power. The Clearwater lights have a pot that lets you adjust the percentage of full power for when low beams are on and then when you use high beam, they go to 100%. The pot lets you adjust low beam light anywhere between 15-something% power.

 

[Brillot2000]

Sent me a picture of the unit. Then a possible mounting location you want the unit to be placed.

I will then process the data and give you my feedback regarding the subject.