Winter Maintenance Project on the NT

[Sunny]

I am planning to do some maintenance on my NT and need advice and tips. Amazon is for just ease of listing. Current mileage 19k miles.

Please let me know if I am missing anything.

1) Oil Change
HONDA 08C35-A141L01 Honda Pro GN4 Motor Oil, 10W40, 1 gal Honda https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J8DMQ92/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_3X05CRDDEMXMZRB5NYKE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 via @amazon

Honda OEM Oil Filter HONDA Honda https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003O784DQ/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_0BHCPNX8Z0CG5AHRPGXM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 via @amazon

Plus : rubber washer for the oil fill cap

2) Final Drive Oil
Honda 08208-0080 Pro Shaft Drive Oil Honda https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L7ATCVO/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_665HRTNNTCRCA8CN6SER?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 via @amazon

Plus: Crush Washers

3) Coolant Flush?
Need suggestion on coolant

4) Brake Flush: Will go to dealer
I plan to get the extender I got installed, and want them to do a proper flush and bleeding after installing the thingabobber.

5) Brakes Pads look ok for now. Do you think it makes sense to ask them to replace them during break flush?

6) Spark Plugs, I am not seeing any riding or fuel efficiency issues, will try to check them. If its too difficult , will get it done during break flush.

7) Air filter : will change, K&N on the way.

8) Bulbs: 1 tail light bulb has gone partially kaput. I remember seeing a LED substitute, will search and get that.

9) Add Front fender spot lights ...

10) try and add a dashboard GPS mount

11) Install the pivoting riser to get the bars a little bit back towards me.

 

[DirtFlier]

You should have someone local teach you how to bleed the brakes. It's simple to do it and although I have some helpful brake bleeding tools, I often do it with just an 8 mm box wrench and a short piece of vinyl hose.

ps. If it were me, I'd just replace the burnt taillight bulb with a standard replacement available at any auto parts store!

 

[mikesim]

I am planning to do some maintenance on my NT and need advice and tips. Amazon is for just ease of listing. Current mileage 19k miles.

Please let me know if I am missing anything.

1) Oil Change
HONDA 08C35-A141L01 Honda Pro GN4 Motor Oil, 10W40, 1 gal Honda https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J8DMQ92/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_3X05CRDDEMXMZRB5NYKE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 via @amazon

Looks good! You can save a few $ by using a more commonly available oil such as Valvoline or Castrol. Just make sure it is rated MA or MA2 for motorcycle wet clutches.

Honda OEM Oil Filter HONDA Honda https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003O784DQ/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_0BHCPNX8Z0CG5AHRPGXM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 via @amazon

Looks good! Once again, you can save a bit by using a quality aftermarket filter. A WIX 10000 was designed specifically for Honda motorcycles.

Plus : rubber washer for the oil fill cap

Unless yours is damaged, reuse it. I have never had to replace mine in 130K miles.

2) Final Drive Oil
Honda 08208-0080 Pro Shaft Drive Oil Honda https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L7ATCVO/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_665HRTNNTCRCA8CN6SER?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 via @amazon.

Looks good! Once again aftermarket alternatives are available at less cost, just make sure the gear oil is the proper viscosity and is rated GL5.

Plus: Crush Washers

Looks good! A new crush washer at every change is a good idea. 14mm crush washers are commonly avaialable at auto parts stores.

3) Coolant Flush?
Need suggestion on coolant

Honda OE coolant, or you can save a bit by using a good quality aftermarket coolant, I use Zerex Asian Blue. Just make sure the coolant you use is free of silicates which don't play well with the water pump seals.

4) Brake Flush: Will go to dealer
I plan to get the extender I got installed, and want them to do a proper flush and bleeding after installing the thingabobber.

As Tosh said, brake fluid flushes are easily done at home and you can make them even easier by replacing the bleeder screws with "speed bleeders". They have a check valve installed which makes bleeding a one man operation. Use DOT 4 brake fluid.

5) Brakes Pads look ok for now. Do you think it makes sense to ask them to replace them during break flush?

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Just check them periodically and replace when you get down to the wear indicators or before a long trip.

6) Spark Plugs, I am not seeing any riding or fuel efficiency issues, will try to check them. If its too difficult , will get it done during break flush.

Plugs aren't terribly hard with the right socket and extensions. I use a spark plug socket with a universal joint built in and about a 3" extension. It makes the right side easy to get to. The Honda recommendation of 8K miles is very unrealistic and can easily be doubled or trebled. For an even longer change interval, you can use an NGK Iridium #CR8EIX. One trick that makes a plug change even easier and safer is to use a piece of fuel hose to install the plugs. They are recessed into the head making the use of your fingers impossible. You can use the spark plug wrench to install 'em but you loose the finesse of "feel" with that approach which can lead to cross threading. Take about a 4" length of fuel hose that fits over the porcelain of the plug and push it on the plug and use that to thread 'em in. You will feel that they are going in properly and not cross threaded. Once they have been snugged down with the fuel hose you can go in with the spark plug wrench and torque 'em down properly. Don't over torque!!

7) Air filter : will change, K&N on the way.

Sounds good!

8) Bulbs: 1 tail light bulb has gone partially kaput. I remember seeing a LED substitute, will search and get that.

You can easily change the tail/brake lamp bulbs over to LED but if you switch the turn signal bulbs to LED you will also have to install some dummy load resistors to fool your flasher into thinking they are still incandescent bulbs. LED's don't draw enough current to activate the flasher.

9) Add Front fender spot lights ...

Buy good quality units, don't try to pinch pennies here. Solder and heat shrink all connections, the crimp on connectors will not stand the test of time

10) try and add a dashboard GPS mount

Lot's of choices here. RAM make some nice units that use their RAM ball mounting system

11) Install the pivoting riser to get the bars a little bit back towards me.

You will appreciate the risers on your first long ride!

Good Luck on your project!

Mike

 

[rc_heli_nut]

Rear taillight/brake light bulbs are P21/5W, I found them easy to find locally, Philips brand sold in pairs. Good idea to replace both while back there.

For the final drive, get Lucas 80W/90 gear oil, it really quiets the final drive coast-down noise.

 

[Brillot2000]

Highly recommend. Philips 1157RLED Ultinon LED (Red), 2 Pack

I have used these for the many years on all my bikes.

 

[ST1100Y]

3) Coolant Flush?
Need suggestion on coolant

Ensure to use silicate free coolant...

4) Brake Flush: Will go to dealer
I plan to get the extender I got installed, and want them to do a proper flush and bleeding after installing the thingabobber.

Bought the NT700VA at a dealer... so rumor has it that they should have done a proper job on the brakes...
Nah... seeing the sign'o'times on the wall I went over the entire bike myself...
Turned out that only the reservoirs contained some "newish" fluid... my pro, air-powered vacuum bleeder unearthed all kinds of caramel shaded(!!) liquids and goo from the depths of the system... especially bad for the ABS modulator where accumulated humidity and crystallization can rake havoc...
So if they permit you access to the workshop to be an eyewitness to the process, ensure they flush (not just replace) with sufficient amounts of new brake fluid, and not only top off each reservoir once...

I'd also check head bearings, wheel bearings, replenish the marine grease at the axle seals, check the rear wheel hub dampers and apply moly grease on the drive splines by the book...
Maybe check the shock mounts and top up the ATF in the preload adjuster...

And not to forget: replace that fork oil!
Depending on mileage (or neglect of frequent fork oil change) even overhaul them completely, new bushings, new seals, everything...

Checking the bolts holding the rear sub-frame and those of the carrier stay (topcase mount) might also be a good idea...

 

[Sunny]

Thanks Guys ..

1Q) I am seeing several videos on oil change , and all have the bike on the center stand. Does it make sense to put the bike on side stand once the oil drain bolt is opened, to drain out the oil?

Spines were mollied when I change the rear shock.

How do you "top up the ATF in the preload adjuster."

I don't think the fork oil was ever changed. Any one has an video on how to do that.

Sunny

 

[DarylCincy]

Thanks Guys ..

1Q) I am seeing several videos on oil change , and all have the bike on the center stand. Does it make sense to put the bike on side stand once the oil drain bolt is opened, to drain out the oil?

Spines were mollied when I change the rear shock.

How do you "top up the ATF in the preload adjuster."

I don't think the fork oil was ever changed. Any one has an video on how to do that.

Sunny

I just changed fork oil and fork springs, I recommend fork springs to especially if you are over 170 lbs, I used 10 w fork oil with .90 kg straight rate springs (I'm around 195-200 lbs and make sure to set the rider sag around 30% of the suspension travel front and back} Good video's on fork oil change and Sag suspension tuning check out Dave Moss Tuning on You-Tube.

 

[Sunny]

I just changed fork oil and fork springs, I recommend fork springs to especially if you are over 170 lbs, I used 10 w fork oil with .90 kg straight rate springs (I'm around 195-200 lbs and make sure to set the rider sag around 30% of the suspension travel front and back} Good video's on fork oil change and Sag suspension tuning check out Dave Moss Tuning on You-Tube.

thanks

I checked some videos and in all honesty, I will let the dealership handle it.

Thanks for the recommendation on the oil, I too will get 10w as I Am in the same weight range.

Where can I get the springs? do you have the link for the spring you used.

sunny

 

[ST1100Y]

How do you "top up the ATF in the preload adjuster."

How many rotations are required on the knob from fully out till you feel actual resistance?
On my GF's NT it were over 7 turns till the piston finally contacted the oil...
Ideally you remove the shock, place the whole shebang so that the preload adjuster it the highest point, remove the banjo, have some ATF in a syringe top off the housing (knob rotated fully out), re-connect the hydraulic line...
If all went fine it'll then take only ~1.5 rotations till resistance is felt.
One can also try to overhaul the entire adjuster by taking it apart, cleaning, new oil charge, but that's a bit more complicated...

 

[Sunny]

How many rotations are required on the knob from fully out till you feel actual resistance?
On my GF's NT it were over 7 turns till the piston finally contacted the oil...
Ideally you remove the shock, place the whole shebang so that the preload adjuster it the highest point, remove the banjo, have some ATF in a syringe top off the housing (knob rotated fully out), re-connect the hydraulic line...
If all went fine it'll then take only ~1.5 rotations till resistance is felt.
One can also try to overhaul the entire adjuster by taking it apart, cleaning, new oil charge, but that's a bit more complicated...

Thanks, this is for next time ... replacing the shock was a PITA this time (few months back).

My adjuster hit resistance on the 8th click, so 3.5 turns till resistance. This is a good thing to have a poll / data point on.

Any one knows what is this point on a new shock? The manual states 11 clicks of preload, so if a new shock hits the resirance at say 4 clicks and I hit it at 8, so for me the correct setting would be like 15clicks. Thoughts?

Sunny

 

[DarylCincy]

thanks

I checked some videos and in all honesty, I will let the dealership handle it.

Thanks for the recommendation on the oil, I too will get 10w as I Am in the same weight range.

Where can I get the springs? do you have the link for the spring you used.

sunny

The Springs I used are for my 94 CBR600 F2 they was some I had that I never used and are Race Tech brand and fit and work fine with the right length spacers. Hyper Pro makes some fork springs for The NT they are progressive rate springs and would work fine.
I'm not fully tested my fork set up so I'm not sure if 10 w oil is the best but I know I'm in the ball park and I'm sure 10 to 15 w would do the trick with the stock conventional dampening rod fork, but if you use cartridge emulators it maybe best with 5 w oil up to 10 w oil.

 

[DarylCincy]

Thanks, this is for next time ... replacing the shock was a PITA this time (few months back).

My adjuster hit resistance on the 8th click, so 3.5 turns till resistance. This is a good thing to have a poll / data point on.

Any one knows what is this point on a new shock? The manual states 11 clicks of preload, so if a new shock hits the resirance at say 4 clicks and I hit it at 8, so for me the correct setting would be like 15clicks. Thoughts?

Sunny

Do not go by clicks of pre load on the rear shock, you got to go by Rider Sag Measurements to get it right I had mind set at around 14 clicks to stiff when I got the bike and when I measured rider sag it was way off I was about half way though the travel (45-50%) should only be around 30% of total suspension travel, don't ask me how many clicks now but its way over 11 click maybe double that easy.

 

[Sunny]

anyone have Honda part number for the longer trans-alp clutch cable ... if I am paying shipping, i makes sense to get all parts

NT Cable part #:22870-MEW-921 (anyone knows the length?)
XL600 cable part #22870-MAB-620 (ebay stay length is 104cm...)


Check out Clutch Control Cable For Honda XL600V XLV600 Transalp 1987-2000 22870-MM9-000 UE https://www.ebay.com/itm/-/334175424409?mkevt=1&mkcid=16&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&media=TWITTER via @eBay

 

[Sunny]

Highly recommend. Philips 1157RLED Ultinon LED (Red), 2 Pack

I have used these for the many years on all my bikes.

Hi Brillot,

Why did you go for RED LEDs and not White? The lens is RED, so asking?

Philips 1157WLED Ultinon LED (White), 2 Pack Philips Automotive Lighting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077FMHGFB/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_QNGNC8S67998W1FCFWN2 via @amazon


red: https://www.usa.philips.com/c-p/1157RULRX2/ultinon-led-car-signaling-bulb, intense red, no lumen mentioned.

white: https://www.usa.philips.com/c-p/1157ULWX2/ultinon-led-car-signaling-bulb#see-all-benefits : 6000k, 45lument

 

[Sunny]

parts ordered ... now the waiting game begins ...

 

[Brillot2000]

Hi Brillot,

Why did you go for RED LEDs and not White? The lens is RED, so asking?

Philips 1157WLED Ultinon LED (White), 2 Pack Philips Automotive Lighting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077FMHGFB/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_QNGNC8S67998W1FCFWN2 via @amazon


red: https://www.usa.philips.com/c-p/1157RULRX2/ultinon-led-car-signaling-bulb, intense red, no lumen mentioned.

white: https://www.usa.philips.com/c-p/1157ULWX2/ultinon-led-car-signaling-bulb#see-all-benefits : 6000k, 45lument

Sorry for the delayed response.

The answer is quite simple. The red lens acts as a filter and only lets some of the light wavelenghts through. I designed and manufactured custom LED lights for 15 years. You should use the exact same color of the lens when it comes to vehicle lighting, Red with Red and Yellow with Amber.

The diagram below best explains this.

 

[Sunny]

Sorry for the delayed response.

The answer is quite simple. The red lens acts as a filter and only lets some of the light wavelenghts through. I designed and manufactured custom LED lights for 15 years. You should use the exact same color of the lens when it comes to vehicle lighting, Red with Red and Yellow with Amber.

The diagram below best explains this.

red leds it is

 

[robbie box]

Changing the fork oil is an easy enough task, support bike from under the engine, remove front wheel, secure brake calipers, remove front mudguard, slacken off the top for caps, then loosen the yoke bolts, fork legs will just drop out.
Remove top cap, and pour old oil out carefully store in order all the components as they come out of the fork leg.
Rebuild fork and add oil to the recommended air gap, replace all parts.
Voila job done.

 

[ST1100Y]

... slacken off the top for caps, then loosen the yoke bolts, fork legs will just drop out...

i) loosen upper triple clamp
ii) loosen fork caps
iii) loosen lower triple clamp
vi) remove fork tube...